It is curious? But someone with more knowledge than me will have to give the answer? Hopefully my angle isn't too bad and will not cause premature wear over time. I really like the way my truck sits now! If I can ever get the weather and my free time to cooperate I plan on cleaning it up good and taking some decent pics.
does any one know about the quality of a hell bent stell level kit? i'm looking at the 2.5" level kit, as thats what seems to level the truck off correctly..
it looks identical to the autospring level kit, and it too is made of steel. let me know before i order! thanks guys..
btw great write up.. i will be using it to help with the install
__________________ sig made by ME. im a graphics designer PM me and i can throw something together PerformanceAFE CAI, FM Super 40 SI/DO dumped, Hypertech Programmer Appearance: HBS 2.5" Level Kit, Aux Lights, MB Blitz, 285 75 17 BF Goodrich KO Sound: Infinity Reference 10" sub, Kicker 600w Amp, Rockford Fosgate speakers Wanted:black heads, tinted fogs and tails, led 3rd brake light, the list goes on and on
does any one know about the quality of a hell bent stell level kit? i'm looking at the 2.5" level kit, as thats what seems to level the truck off correctly..
it looks identical to the autospring level kit, and it too is made of steel. let me know before i order! thanks guys..
btw great write up.. i will be using it to help with the install
Yeah man, those things have really good feedback from most guys.... but you can get the AutoSpring for around $70 with free shipping too just FYI. Be sure to post some pics when you get it on there, whichever option you go with!
oh. most definetly!! i still have not decided on which to get.. err im stuck in between.... ill probably have my mind made up by friday, and have on, some time next week.... im so excited, haha ive spent about $600 in the past two days on my truck A.K.A. Big Red ( i know, how original.lol) now hear comes somemore... oh well... money is money, esp in this ecomony. ha right!
anyways, enough with the spamming of a wonderful how-to.. im off to answer some questions!
-Andrew
__________________ sig made by ME. im a graphics designer PM me and i can throw something together PerformanceAFE CAI, FM Super 40 SI/DO dumped, Hypertech Programmer Appearance: HBS 2.5" Level Kit, Aux Lights, MB Blitz, 285 75 17 BF Goodrich KO Sound: Infinity Reference 10" sub, Kicker 600w Amp, Rockford Fosgate speakers Wanted:black heads, tinted fogs and tails, led 3rd brake light, the list goes on and on
My leveling kit is on order... and this will be in the garage with me. I went with the Readylift 3" level kit... different company, but product is basically identical... it's just easier to get in Canada.
I also ordered the 3" rear block kit. I will photo up the install and get that posted.
yeah dude! Definitely post up some photos when you get it done! I have the 3" from fat bob's but want to put a 3" rear block soon too
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3" PA Body Lift, 3" Level Kit, PC 1079 17x9,
BFG AT 315/70/r17, AIRAID CAI,
Flowmaster 50 SIDO 45 Degrees,
Hypertech Programmer My Truck
Here are some things that I encountered during install. First and foremost, the kit made the truck look awesome, leveled it right out like it should be. I also noticed that the 2.5" kit didn't measure that, but it did lift the front 2.5". I had a problem right off the bat. I started on the passenger side. After removing the tire, I went for the sway bay nut. What a pain in the rear! It took me every bit of 45 minutes to finally get it off with much frustration, vise grips, and a wrench! After I got the nut off, the rest went very smoothly...until I had to put the nut back on. More of the same....much frustration, vise grips, and a wrench! I did figure out that if I had just put a small socket on the bottom of the bolt the nut is on, I could have had it off in no time! I was concerned that I had damaged the boot, but the dealership said it should be ok (took it there for the front end alignment). With the lessons learned on the passenger side, the driver side only took about 20 minutes! I highly recommend the use of a small socket (either 7mm or 8mm) on the sway bar bolt to keep it from spinning while you turn the nut. All in all, I couldn't be happier and the kit is great as you aren't changing the factory ride like you would with torquing the torsion bars.
Just put on a 2" AS this weekend. I also had a problem with the spindle bolt between the sway bar and control arm spinning, except I was not clever enough to realize that I could use a socket on the lower end of the bolt to hold it in place. Instead, I left the spindle connected and just dropped the entire sway bar to allow the control arm to drop. It wasn't until I ran into the same problem with the bolt connecting the control arms that I realized I could just use a wrench on the bolt and a socket on the end of the bolt. After I got the sway bar back in place on the first side, the second side went like a breeze. I don't know how hard you guys were hitting the control arm to pop it loose, but I tried a few whacks just for grins, and it didn't move at all. I eventually used the Arm Puller and I'm glad I didn't have to keep on hitting until it popped loose. Anyway, awesome write-up. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
__________________
2005 Supercrew Lariat 4x4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockpick
Having been around here for quite some time now, it's become VERY evident to me that some people just aren't happy unless they're thread crapping. It's really that simple.
Fronts are done. I got impatient waiting for the rears to arrive. It went pretty well, both side took me about 4 hours. I did it alone, with all hand tools and had to take smoke breaks trying to get the lower strut nut off. But other than that easy breezy. I took crap B/A photos, and will post them once I get the rear finished. (ETA.... end of month)
Oh, judging by the pictures. Somewhere between '04 and '06 they changed the sway bar a little. Mine had the bolt attachment on top of the bar not through the side. And like others have said, it is much easier to remove the top nut, rather than the bottom.
PS. I figure with the 3" lift on the front I am just about perfectly level (no rake).
with my 3" spacer I sit a little nose high. But It doesn't really bother me too much. But that's why I want to do the 3" rear block.
__________________
3" PA Body Lift, 3" Level Kit, PC 1079 17x9,
BFG AT 315/70/r17, AIRAID CAI,
Flowmaster 50 SIDO 45 Degrees,
Hypertech Programmer My Truck
I just wanted to post and say thanks for these instructions. IMO the a/s kit should come with these instructions instead of the ones they do have.
It went pretty smooth but here are my comments
1. sway bar bolt spinning, thanks to whoever discovered that it could be held with an 8mm socket, after that it was no problem
2. I had 2 different 30mm sockets neither one would work, I had to stop and go finda 30mm deep socket. After that it came loose very easy with a 24" breaker bar.
3. Didn't need the puller to seperate the ball joints, couple waks with my 4lb hammer and it popped loose.
4. When reasembling the ball joint the bolt was turning, I used a pry bar to force the upper control arm down and was able to stop the bolt from turning
5. I loctite'd everything, maybe not necessary but why not.
6. I put the 2.5 on my '06 XLT Supercrew, it's high in the front now, I'm hoping I can level it by running some weight in my air bags.
7. Aligment was in spec but not perfect, I am at the extreme limits for caster
just bought my kit today, itll be here ina few days and im going to do it aas the write up says. i have a regular cab flareside f150 so ill post up pics shortly after! i cant wait!?!?!?!?
I just wanted to post and say thanks for these instructions. IMO the a/s kit should come with these instructions instead of the ones they do have.
It went pretty smooth but here are my comments
1. sway bar bolt spinning, thanks to whoever discovered that it could be held with an 8mm socket, after that it was no problem
2. I had 2 different 30mm sockets neither one would work, I had to stop and go finda 30mm deep socket. After that it came loose very easy with a 24" breaker bar.
3. Didn't need the puller to seperate the ball joints, couple waks with my 4lb hammer and it popped loose.
4. When reasembling the ball joint the bolt was turning, I used a pry bar to force the upper control arm down and was able to stop the bolt from turning
I agree on all points. I ended up holding the 30mm nut with a huge cresent because stores were closed but wasn't happy that the shallow socket I bought didn't fit - definitely get the deep socket at least for an 05 FX4? I anti-seized the sway bar bolt and didn't have a problem with spinning using the impact but the hex end of the bolt is there for a reason!
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