I don't know exactly what kind you would need, but Im sure that Advance Auto or a similar store would rent you one - and they should be able to tell you what kind you need
too bad the closest advance auto is over 100 miles away, and i dont think autozone rents torque wrenches.. but im sure if i bring the torque specs to them they can help me out..
anyways, i cant wait to do this!! roughly how long has it taken everyone to do this? ive never done anything with suspension or anything even close to that kind of stuff..
i just did mine 2 days ago, it was snowing i mite add(just my luck haha) took me about 1.5 hours but i got and ass load of tools and air your probably looking at around 3 to 4 hours... word of advice, when you go to put the upper ball joint back on the spindal, use a ratchet strap to pull the upper control arm down to seat the ball joint and prevent it from spining when you put the nut back on
i just did mine 2 days ago, it was snowing i mite add(just my luck haha) took me about 1.5 hours but i got and ass load of tools and air your probably looking at around 3 to 4 hours... word of advice, when you go to put the upper ball joint back on the spindal, use a ratchet strap to pull the upper control arm down to seat the ball joint and prevent it from spining when you put the nut back on
i have air tools too (well my buddy.lol) but we usually work on our stuff together.. so im sure ill be fine on the tool part.. i just need a damn torque wrench!
rite on, all the fun and you didnt have to buy them lol. if you have to buy one, get a 24 inch torque bar for the lower strut bolt. the spacer bolts can just be hand cranked and the ball joint bolt i couldnt get my torque wench on it
this just dawned upon me. do you HAVE to remove the whole coilover? or can you just leave the bottom attached to the control arm (since that bolt is so stubborn). in reality i wouldnt see why you couldnt just leave the bottom part of it attached so you dont have to worry about tightening it to 225 ft/lbs again...
has anyone tried it that way? just an idea.
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Well hell! Thanks for the offer neighbor!! I'll have everything together and be over at your place Saturday, 8:00 sharp!
I don't have anything yet, but hopefully I can swing a 4" Rancho by the wife sometime soon. I want to put bigger tires on the truck when I replace the OEMs that are on there now.
well come on over and we'll slap it on.
despite the current $ conditions, i have actually been staying pretty busy on the weekends doing lifts and other accessories on various vehicles.
over the next couple of weeks i have my buddy's f150 lift, a full stereo install in a Charger, a lift on a jeep commander, and bumpers for a jeep wrangler that i just recently did a lift and tire carrier on.
too bad the closest advance auto is over 100 miles away, and i dont think autozone rents torque wrenches.. but im sure if i bring the torque specs to them they can help me out..
anyways, i cant wait to do this!! roughly how long has it taken everyone to do this? ive never done anything with suspension or anything even close to that kind of stuff..
thanks buddy. i found that out today when i called them to see if they had any pitman arm pullers in to "rent". hopefully ill have time to do it tmmrw!!
__________________ sig made by ME. im a graphics designer PM me and i can throw something together PerformanceAFE CAI, FM Super 40 SI/DO dumped, Hypertech Programmer Appearance: HBS 2.5" Level Kit, Aux Lights, MB Blitz, 285 75 17 BF Goodrich KO Sound: Infinity Reference 10" sub, Kicker 600w Amp, Rockford Fosgate speakers Wanted:black heads, tinted fogs and tails, led 3rd brake light, the list goes on and on
this just dawned upon me. do you HAVE to remove the whole coilover? or can you just leave the bottom attached to the control arm (since that bolt is so stubborn). in reality i wouldnt see why you couldnt just leave the bottom part of it attached so you dont have to worry about tightening it to 225 ft/lbs again...
has anyone tried it that way? just an idea.
i won't say it's impossible to do that, but you would have to disconnect the brake lines and steering to allow your lower control arm to swing down freely and far enough to pull the top part of the coilover out of its mount.
trust me, it is way easier to take that single bolt out and remove the whole thing.
haha, i didnt think about the brake lines...oh well, it was just a thought...
__________________ sig made by ME. im a graphics designer PM me and i can throw something together PerformanceAFE CAI, FM Super 40 SI/DO dumped, Hypertech Programmer Appearance: HBS 2.5" Level Kit, Aux Lights, MB Blitz, 285 75 17 BF Goodrich KO Sound: Infinity Reference 10" sub, Kicker 600w Amp, Rockford Fosgate speakers Wanted:black heads, tinted fogs and tails, led 3rd brake light, the list goes on and on
does any one the factory torque on the bolts? i dont beleive the hell bent instructions are correct, it says to torque the "shock absorber-to-lower arm nut and bolt to 351 ft/lbs. i think thats way too much!
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Did this last night, it took 2 hrs. But we could have been done sooner.
We tried to use just a standard 18mm socket. Bcz thats all we had.
It didn't work that good so I went to AutoZone and picked up the 18mm deep socket and things went nice & smooth.
The was the first time my buddy or I had done anything like this and everything went pretty good.
Great instructions!!!!!!
ok, so i tried to install this tonight. and my control arms were touching the coilovers, and the top control arm was extremely stretched downward. can anyone help me out with why it was doing that? or how to correct it?
__________________ sig made by ME. im a graphics designer PM me and i can throw something together PerformanceAFE CAI, FM Super 40 SI/DO dumped, Hypertech Programmer Appearance: HBS 2.5" Level Kit, Aux Lights, MB Blitz, 285 75 17 BF Goodrich KO Sound: Infinity Reference 10" sub, Kicker 600w Amp, Rockford Fosgate speakers Wanted:black heads, tinted fogs and tails, led 3rd brake light, the list goes on and on
ok, so i tried to install this tonight. and my control arms were touching the coilovers, and the top control arm was extremely stretched downward. can anyone help me out with why it was doing that? or how to correct it?
Did you lower your truck back down & still have this problem? Mine does this when it's on jacks & the tire just hangs much lower, but with full weight it's perfectly clear.
....it does however, make me worry about major articulation scenarios........
No, I didn't set it down, I actually returned it back to stock and left the scenario scratching my head as to why this happened.
I figured that when it was planted on the ground that it would be fine, but what about when say you go over a big bump or something. It worries me that it will mess something up.
Anyone else have this problem? Or know of a way to fix it? I was thinking maybe a spring compressor to set the control arms, but I think that it would still be messed up.
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your probably looking at around 3 to 4 hours... word of advice, when you go to put the upper ball joint back on the spindal, use a ratchet strap to pull the upper control arm down to seat the ball joint and prevent it from spining when you put the nut back on
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