replacing sway-bar end link. (Clunking)

[lees99f150]

I broke my sway-bar end link. i could tell by the clunking when i was turning hard. when i looked at it behind the front wheel i could see it was broken. a closer view, but out of focus. I bought 2 kits at advance auto for a total of $15 so i can do both sides. This is what should be in each kit.

[lees99f150]

The kit will look like this assembled but with the control arm and sway-bar between the red rubber bushings.



I unbolted the old link using a pair of vice grips and a wrench. i then installed the new one using two 9/16 wrenches. tighten it till the nut gets tight. it is a lock nut and will bottom out on the bolt. i left the wheel on and turned it to the side.

The new link installed.



After driving it for a while i will recheck it.

[phatbak]

Heya,

just picked up my new set of end links and installed both sides in about 30 minutes

never would've known one was broken until I noticed the bolt hanging down.

[phatbak]

I was bored at work and started thinking about the end link bolts...

the kit I bought at Napa had standard grade 5 bolts. Wouldn't grade 8 be better?

or is any upgrade good enough.

[tkwood]

dont know if this matters, but your bolt is upside-down, shouldnt get in the way of anything though

[cardinalworks]

How Come The Old Broken Bolt Didnt Just Fall Right Out Of The Bottom ?

[lees99f150]

Originally Posted by cardinalworks

How Come The Old Broken Bolt Didnt Just Fall Right Out Of The Bottom ?

because it has plastic molded around it. i never tried to knock it out. i just put my impact on it and spun the nut off. wail on it, you wont damage it any more than it is.

[lees99f150]

Originally Posted by tkwood

dont know if this matters, but your bolt is upside-down, shouldnt get in the way of anything though

i put it on this way so it wouldn't hang out the bottom and chance getting bent on something. the extra up top wont hurt anything.

[fireftrbuck]

Those pictures are just great. Thanks for taking the time to post them. Now I know exactly what to do. And by the sounds of things, I might as well buy two sets. I'll probably break them again.

[John Hetrick]

do you have a part number for the TRW kit?

[Madhappy]

Same here, thanks for the pics.
I replaced the same thing 2 months ago and the plastic bushing that encases the bolt is a real SOB to pound out.
(I used Moog bolts, but same thing....)
I ended up melting the @#$%^!$%^ plastic off with a torch, then even more kicking and swearing.
Got it out though, took about 3 hours.
I have no idea why it would shear off the head of the bolt.
I suspect a -30 degree Wisconsin winter may have played a part. As stated earlier, I had NO idea it was busted.
Again, thanks for the pics, they should be included in the
Tech Tips.

[Madhappy]

Btw: The replacement Moog sway arm bolts came with (blue) poly bushings and a total of around $7.00 each. (Napa)
I replaced both of them at the same time.
You have to jack up the front of the truck or the last 1/4"
of the bolt won't make it out.
Heap on the anti seize.
If you want, and if theres anything left of them, you can use the old rubber bushings for thread covers on the new bolts.

[alphy79]

Thanks for the pics and the post. I just picked up my 2000 F150 last month (my first truck...lovin it) and I noticed the bolts were broke on the sway bar while changing my rotors. Excuse my ignorance, but will attaching the sway bar back on really make the truck ride better? Is it a safety thing or just a comfort item. Thanks again!

[Paralyzer]

it reduces body roll by ALOT. driving without a sway bar sucks...

[alphy79]

Thanks Paralyzer. Took me about 30 mins to change out. Most of that time was spent beating the hell out of the broken bolt. I think I notice it the ride feels tighter in the cornering. But then again, I'm only about 1 month into the rig.