so i got an allignment and the dealership says my pitman arm is loose.. not to the point of like breaking or ruining my truck but its wearing.. my truck also still pulls to the right a little (2000 f-150 with 33 bfgoorich at ko's) should i replace the pitman arm with a new one? is this just a bolt on item or does it have to be like set up a certain way and then aligned again after? thanks for the help guys

 

If it is indeed loose, it is a bolt on replacement you can do yourself. All you need is the new part and a pitman arm removal tool. About $15.00 at your local parts store. I cannot be installed incorrectly due to the spline spacing. If it was that bad, the dealer should have recommended it be replaced before the alignment. This will help ensure the play is removed from the steering system/linkage.

 

Uh, who said it was bad? It is just a piece of steel. It is a non-wear item.

There is a nut under the steerring box that holds it on. You might have to tighten it, but I have never seen this before. It has a lock washer under the nut. More than likely the drag link attached to it is worn out. Also the steering box might need adjustment to get rid of some play. this might be the movement you see.

 

The end that connects to the steering box commonly doesn't wear. The ball joint on the end that connects to the center link can and does though. The center link commonly does not wear, since it ain't but a metal bar that connects the inner tie rods to the idler and pitman arms.

Edited to add: And be advised, some pitman arms can be real boogers to remove. Often times, I've had to cut a slit in them on the end that attaches to the steering box before hooking up my puller and going to town on it with an impact gun. Of course, there are some that practically fall off when you hit them with the puller too, but just a heads up.

 

Whoops...didn't look at the truck year...sorry.

 

ha thats ok.. ya the dealer said it wouldnt cause any trouble it wasnt worn bad or anything they just said it was a little loose and my truck might pull to the right a little (which it does) i bought the truck used a couple years back and the guy had bfgoodrich tires on but the backs were newer then the fronts... i replaced the back 2 like 4k ago and now just did the other 2 tires... i have had new ball joints and A arms i think it was installed at the dealership before they did the alignment (same day ) would the pitman arm make if pull to the right if it were wearing? i work at sears so i did the balancing of the wheels myself and KNOW they are in balance. and if i just had the alignment that should be right but im having sears check it out for free tomorrow anyways. ( im a tire service tech so i kno the guys and they wont lie. my steering wheel also its ****ed to the right a little not too bad. if i put it in the center and turn right it has a little play but if i start centered and turn left its dead on and turns instantly. any ideas?? could this be the pitman arm or something else that would cause this?? when they do alignments do they crank torsion bars if need be? i have never looked how far mine are up.. i will check that tomorrow too. i am running 285/75r-16 and from what i understand you dont have to have them cranked all the way to fit them on the stock ride height of the truck. thanks for any help guys sorry this is so long.. its not a big rush just kind of curious whats going on and if i should make the dealership re do the alignment!!!

 

Bad prior alignment job or worn parts.

If it started pulling to right AFTER the huge tires were installed, replace worn part, new alignment and add steering stabilizer.

If a part is loose or worn, it can not be aligned properly.

It can be difficult to determine if it is the balljoint end or steering box end of pitman arm....and even with a puller, it can be a pain to replace the arm only. If the allen head adjustment screw on the box does not help (over tighten this screw and the steering wheel will lock up and you will die), I would replace the entire steering gear box/pitman arm assembly. To me, its easier to replace the entire assembly than just the pitman arm and at places like www.car-part.com, you can find almost new assemblys very cheap. By doing so, you eliminate the pitman arm, ball joint side, pitman arm steering box side, steering box, and steering box to coupler side as problems.

If you still have oem inner outer tie rods with huge tires, those will go soon, if not already.

Pulling to the right and steering wheel being off and having large tires, sounds like large tires accelerated wear on parts and caused alignment to be off and therefore the pull to right.

 

but those size tires have been on the truck since 2001 ? it did pull before the alignment and after it seemed a little less? think it would be worth the 30 bux to replace it and see if it helps? or should i buy an aftermarket steering stabilizer

 

Steering stabilizer will only help if you have parts in specs. and alignment specs. with larger tires. Larger tires will follow crown of road may pull a little to left or right on crowned roads. Larger than oem tires also wear all steering linkages at an accelerated rate.

$30 for pitman arm/ball joint? Okay, change it (you gonna want some type of "break free" spray on pitman arm to steering gear box connection before pulling it with a puller), and then put MAX. spec. caster in new alignment.

 

what a max spec caster? sorry im kind of new to the whole suspension alginment thing. just starting to take auto classes at the college and i have only delt with engine stuff before on my own trucks.

 

You have three major alignment setting including, Caster, camber and toe.

Caster is what causes your steering wheel to "want to" return to center and makes your tires track straight down the road. Not enough caster and steering will feel loose and truck will wander on road and you will be correcting your steering as if you were driving a boat on the water.

Too much Caster and your steering will feel "twitchy" and very sensitive and it feels like rack and pinion sports car steering. I actually prefer this and have my caster settings beyond maximum F150 specification settings.

You change caster settings by adjusting the upper control arm bolts/washers. However, there is not much adjustment in it. You can get more adjustment by removing the existing upper control arm bolts and washers and replacing them with a Camber bolts and washers kit. Its really about were the center of the weight of the front end of the truck is.....the more the weight is further behind the tire, the more caster. More caster is good.

Also note that, the more the rear end is higher than the front end, you will LOSE caster. Not good. I have rake, but I also have a high caster setting.

Always keep your camber within specs or you will eat up your tires in no time. 0 toe or VERY slight toe-in, will insure that your truck tracks straight down the road. Too much toe and you will eat up your tires in no time.

With good parts and alignment you will like the feel of the steering stabilizer if and only if, you have huge tires. I tried it with my 275/60/17 and HATED it. It slowed down my steering return to center.

A computer alignment machine will have the caster, camber, and toe specs for your model.

 

hey thanks you very much for the help... i think im understanding it alot more.. im going to slowly set the caster up more and see what happens. thanks man