Lower ball joint replacement

[DaWG of Indpls]

Guys, I need some help. I need to replace the lower ball joints and tie rods on my 2000 F150. I understand Moog is the brand to buy. I have found them at a very reasonable price. Am I nuts to try and do these on my own. What special tool(s) will it require? Am I going to have to beat the heck out of the current ball joints to get them off? How about the tie rods, any beating going on there either? With one guy what kind of time am I looking at? DaWG

[Crownie]

I did both of these jobs after doing some research on here on how to do it. From my experience, you can read all the instructions and tips out there and the first one is still going to be a bugger. But, after getting through the first one it's not too bad. The tie-rod ends are easier. Only special tool would be a puller, I bought a basic 2 legged one for maybe $15. Just pull the cotter pin, remove the nut, and press the bolt through. Either count threads or mark the location of the old part before removing so you know where to thread the new one to.

Lower ball joint is a bigger pita... Several others have posted instructions on here that are better than I could do, so I'd recommend doing a search for those. I do have a couple tips that I learned the hard way that may save you a lil pain. I tried to do the job without removing the axle from the spindle, and that caused way more grief than it was worth. Get the axle out of the way. Plus, it makes getting the newly pressed in ball joint into the spindle much easier. It's still a bugger even with the axle loose. I finally got it by using a pry bar on the upper shock mount and press down the upper arm until you hit the stop. Your helper should be able to maneuver the spindle under the ball joint stud now. Another thing, cut the bolt end off the old ball joint as far up as you can. It's much easier to get the axle loose once the spindle is free from the old ball joint. If you cut enough off, you can get the joint out with the axle still in the spindle. Getting the new joint fully pressed into the lower arm is a challange also. The press I borrowed from the parts store wasn't big enough to handle the 2 spacers needed to press the joint the 1/4 inch through the top of the arm. Some press as far as they can and then pound the crap on the lower arm with the joint supported underneath with a jack. I did this the first time and it did work eventually, but that hammer was bouncing off of all sorts of things in there. The second joint I got a small piece of PVC piping the right diameter and was able to use the press all the way... much easier. Special tools include: spreading fork (1 wasn't enough for me... I used 2), ball joint press (loaner tool from auto parts store), a BFH, 1" of PVC (take the joint and make sure the diameter of the pipe clears the back side), 36mm socket for the axle nut (at least that was the size for my '00 4x4).

I'm sure I'm forgetting several things that I had wished I had known before hand... but that's where the fun is! With some mechanical ability and understanding, both of these jobs are doable.

[GDDYUP]

The only special tool you'll need is a ball joint press to get the ball joint out. You can remove the outer tie rod by loosening up the nut where it goes through the spindle and then taking your handy BFH to the side of the spindle where the end goes through. A couple of good whacks will pop the tie rod end right out.

[Yankee7985]

You really don't even need a ball joint press for a 2WD. For the lower one:
1. Remove tire
2. Remove caliper
3. Seperate spindle from ball joint.
4. Remove snap ring from ball joint.
5. Use BFH to pound out ball joint.
6. Clean inside diameter of opening with sand paper.
7. Insert ball joint from bottom of control arm.
8. Use floor jack to help press ball joint into place, install snap ring.
9. If needed, coax control arm with BFH.
10. Assemble rest of components

Why not do the upper ball joints while you have it appart?
If you do, remember to install a camber kit on each side. This will save you about $100.00 when you go get an alignment.

[Quintin]

I don't own a ball joint press; I've done them exactly as Yankee described. Support the control arm with an appropriate jack, get your favorite BFH and beat the hell out of the lower joint until it gives up. I use an old carrier bearing that I cut the cage off of as an insert to reinstall the lower ball joint. You don't really need a puller for the outer tie rods either, smack the side of the spindle where the end of the tie rod goes up through and is secured by the castle nut (after removing the nut, of course) to break the taper on the joint.

[BruceScrew]

Go to AutoZone for the Ball-Joint C-Press and Tie-Rod end puller - you put down a fully refundable deposit when you're done. You don't even need to buy the parts from them. I've done both my 4x4 and 4x2 truck; I prefer 4x2 - it only took 30 minutes each side. 4x4 took 2 hours each side.

Bought my Moog parts from Rockauto.com - excellent prices!

[MITCHYKINS]

DO NOT POUND BALL JOINT FROM LOWER A ARM
IT CAN AND WILL strech the arm hole or break needs to be pressed out
this can show up as a ball joint loose in control arm after several thousand miles
mitchykins

[JMC]

Mine is a 4x4 and I used the BFH method. Worked fine for me.

JMC

[MITCHYKINS]

might be a small percentage of failure because of hammering on steering parts
why not use the proper tool and make that percentage as small as possible
mitchykins

[JMC]

I don't have the tool and the BFH was handy. Not to be a smart äss but local stores here don't have the puller to lend. I checked because I believe in the right tool for the job.

JMC

[Quintin]

I've never bought a ball joint press because 1, they're relatively expensive, 2, I don't do very much front end work, and 3, I like to keep buying speciality tools, especially ones that I may not use very often, to a minimum. A few well placed hammer blows can do almost anything on a front end. I've never had a problem with the joints loosening up further on down the road using a hammer and a trans jack with a homemade adapter to remove and reinstall lower ball joints.

[blaine96]

OK guys, I have a few additional questions. I think I may need to replace the ball joints in my '98 F-150 4X4.
First, are you replacing the top ball joint also, or is it mainly the lower ball joint that they have problems with?
Second, how bad is it to install a camber kit that Yankee7985 mentioned?
Third, when I priced upper ball joints, my local parts store recommended I use the MOOG kit that comes witht the upper ball joint installed in a replacement upper control arm. How hard is it install these, and do I have to install a camber kit with these?

[Crownie]

I replaced the upper a-arms with MOOG replacements. It was an easy job, but I can't say I saw a lot of improvement afterwards. For the amount of work, the lower ball joints a worth it. I would stop there and decide how the truck feels before going on. If it feels right to you, don't bother with the uppers. I can't speat to the camber kit. I didn't put one on. I'm pretty sure it's not needed for the lower ball joint chage. I don't know enough about them to say for sure if the are worth it after an upper arm change. I didn't and the alignment shop didn't seem to have any problems getting me straight again.

[JMC]

FYI The uppers are where the caster and camber is set. If you replace the uppers and reuse the factory hardware you might be able to get things back to OEM spec. If not then the cam bolts will be required. The alignment shop will not be able to adjust these parameters if you don't have the cam bolts. The lowers are the one that do all the work so it is understandable that they wear out faster. Check the uppers and if you don't think they need to be replaced than by all means leave them alone.

JMC

[snappylips]

Originally Posted by JMC

I don't have the tool and the BFH was handy. Not to be a smart äss but local stores here don't have the puller to lend. I checked because I believe in the right tool for the job. JMC

That was funny JMC. "I believe in the right tool for tool for the job", in the same paragraph with: "I don't have the tool and the BFH was handy". Pretty good!

SL