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  #1  
Old 01-20-2001, 05:17 PM
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Post Wheel Hop on F350 --->

Any Idea on how to stop this on a 1Ton ???

Thanks,
Jon

------------------
1999 F350 SD XLT 5.4L Black!

See my TRUCK!!
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2001, 07:04 PM
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Smile

I have a 97' F-250HD and it does the same thing. The only answer I have recieved on this question is you need to buy a very stout set of ladder bars. Another solution would be to quit spinning. Click the image to open in full size.

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Mods: K&N FIPK
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2001, 07:49 PM
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Some of the lift company's make traction bars that mount over the front half of the leaf. It's really a problem with the 4 inch blocks on th 97 and earlier F350 4X4's.

Jerry.
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  #4  
Old 01-21-2001, 01:20 AM
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BigGreenFord hit it right on the head. You see them blocks between the leafs and the axle?

This is causing axle wrap. This is why you should never lift with blocks! (i know it is factory, but aftermarket lift). Cheap cheap cheap!

basically you can either get some traction bars like from Rancho that connect from the frame to the bottom of the axle or call up like National springs and have them make you a new set of springs to eliminate that block.
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  #5  
Old 01-21-2001, 09:50 AM
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The 97 and earlier F250 only have 2 inch rear blocks, F350 have near 4 inchers. I took my F250 CC Powerstroke 4x4 into Devils Kitchen in Utah. Had a 2.5 inch Tuff Country and I actually used Dodge 4 inch blocks in the back. I did get some hop on the ledges but it made it fine. Fun!!

Jerry
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2001, 10:18 AM
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Thanks Guys,
Anyone have REAL world exprience with the traction bars and maybe a pic (or site) that sells them ???

Thanks again,
Jon

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See my TRUCK!!
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2001, 11:38 AM
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Here is the rancho ones that connect to the bottom of the axle:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

http://www.gorancho.com/traction.htm

The only bad thing about these is they hang down, but so does the driveshaft, so....

I had some traction bars on my 4.0L ranger after I hopped up the motor. They mounted on top of the leaf spring then forward to the frame. It made a huge difference in traction! But the ranger only had like a 1 3/4" factory block in the back.
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2001, 05:45 PM
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Thanks MAt,
I made something similar to that for my '83 Toyata 4x4. It connected from the Frame Crossmember to the Center housing of the rearend. I used 2 Hiem joints and some pipe....Worked Great.
I wonder Click the image to open in full size.
Mat,are you on the Corral? My name on there is RI85GT!

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  #9  
Old 01-24-2001, 07:56 PM
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Do a search here:
www.ford-diesel.com

Guaranteed to find your answer there.
-Joe-


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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners, Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard, Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way) Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console.
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  #10  
Old 01-24-2001, 09:12 PM
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Check these out !

http://www.activesuspension.com/

------------------
99' F-150 XLT 4.6L SC 4X4 ORP LS

- Ariad FIPK
- Superchip
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- Accel Coil Packs
- FMS 9MM Plug Wires
- Rapidflow 3" single
CatBack exhaust
- Fluidyne Trany cooler
- A.R.E. Hard Tonue
Cover
- Duraliner bed liner
- "W" Bucky Badger
Hitch Cover
- Mobil1 5W-30
- Outerwears
pre-filter cover
(Blue of course).

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  #11  
Old 01-24-2001, 10:07 PM
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Wow
Those are pretty cool. Anyone ever try them???

Thanks guys
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2001, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RI995.4L:
Mat,are you on the Corral? My name on there is RI85GT!


Yup. same name. :-)
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Old 01-24-2001, 10:10 PM


 
 
 
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