Any info on how to crank the torsion bar would be a great help. I know some of you guys out there have done it (I mean yourselves and not at the shop) so give us the low down.
Thanks


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Chevy, I don't think so Al
Try a 1999 F-150 XLT, Ext.Cab, 5.4L, 3:55 limited slip, 4x4, Black Clearcoat with Tan interior,Sport pakage, Tonneau.

 

There is a cross-member about halfway back that your torsion bars sit in. If you are looking up at it from the ground you should see two bolts staring back at you. These are the adjustment bolts you want to "crank" on.

Okay, easy Tim, don't start crankin 'em yet. You should take some front measurements on flat, level ground first. Then, you will want to crank the bolts only 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time. Tighten each bolt the exact same distance and walla! Cheap lift kit for the truck. You will be surprised at how much lift you will get out of 1 to 1 1/2 turns. If you don't like it, just crank 'em back down the same number of turns.

Use the measurements you started with to make sure that the truck remains level and as a reference point for how much you lifted the truck. I wouldn't take it up more than 1" 1/2. You probably risk some increased wear on the front end and the truck looks goofy with the front higher than the rear.

Good luck!

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'97 F150 Lariat, Flareside, SC, ORP, 5.4, Mods: 305/70/16 GY ATS, AR Baja wheels, dual exhaust, Smittybilt nerf bars and fog light mod.

 

Thanks kkirt1, now I know what I'm doing next weekend.

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Chevy, I don't think so Al
Try a 1999 F-150 XLT, Ext.Cab, 5.4L, 3:55 limited slip, 4x4, Black Clearcoat with Tan interior,Sport pakage, Tonneau.

 

Just thought I should play devils advocate here for a second. Some things to be careful about when cranking the torsion bars.

Your camber could be altered beyond its adjustment range, you'll have very little downward travel with the suspension, the ride will probably be pretty harsh, your stock shocks probably won't handle it very well, and worst of all you'll force the balljoints and halfshafts to operate outside of the design range causing them to wear out rapidly.

This all came from the July 99 issue of 4-Wheel & Off-Road magazine in the Nuts & Bolts column (pg 156.) and is written about a Dodge Dakota, but I believe is still applicable. Be carefull!

Todd


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93 F-150 4x2, 4.9L, E-4OD, 3.08 rearend, 31x10.5 BFG A/T's, Skyjacker Softride Hydro Shocks,K&N Airfilter, Jacobs Electronics Plug Wires/Rotor/Cap. (Other mods: Undecided!)

 

Todd: I would agree, if you max out the torsion bar adjustment there could be problems. IMO though, adjusting the front ride height by an inch/inch and a half can't do that much harm. Because of their placement, about half way up the a arm, the shock is only extended about a half inch over stock. Also, I haven't noticed a harsher ride. With that said though, I do have a set of Edelbrock shocks on order to smooth out the bumps a little better. Since I put the larger tires on, the ride has suffered a little. I'll let you guys know how it works out.

I would have liked to read the article about the Dakota. Were they discouraging readers from adjusting the torsion bars a couple of inches instead of buying a lift kit?

Always welcome the devils advocate. And by all means, each of you should develop your own opinions - I am no expert!

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'97 F150 Lariat, Flareside, SC, ORP, 5.4, Mods: 305/70/16 GY ATS, AR Baja wheels, dual exhaust, Smittybilt nerf bars and fog light mod.

 

Well guys, I crawled under my truck yesterday to take a look at the bars, I'm still not exactly sure witch ones are the ones to crank on. I think I have a good idea though, by following kkirt1's instructions. But I just wanna make sure, so I don't do anything wrong. I've always wanted to lift the front end a little bit just to make the truck even, cause all us 4x4 guys know that the rear end sits higher up, and I hate that. And since I'm fixin to put on a winch I really wanna crank it up. This weekend I will look at it again and see what I can do. Thanks kkirt1 for the instructions.

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Stone Cold, Black 98 Styleside S/C F150 4x4 0RP 5.4 3.55ls, Magnum bug shield,Grizzly
roll bar,2 Baja lights, 4 165 watt KC lights (I can turn night into day), Manik grille guard,Westin step bars,Sonic aluminum treadplate 36" tool box, Flowmaster dual exhaust, K/N air filter, 265/75/16 BFG AT/s, American Racing Baja wheels and a F150 Online sticker. More to come for the Attention Getter: Ramsey winch will be on it real soon (hopefully), 2 more KC lights, Rancho shocks. If you would like to see pics, email me at mudder46@hotmail.com or go to http://www.mindspring.com/~acbradley/index2a.html


[This message has been edited by mudder (edited 08-08-1999).]

[This message has been edited by mudder (edited 08-08-1999).]

 

Kkirt1,

They stated that it is OK to do it if your only looking for a little lift (what constitutes a little I havn't a clue), but that otherwise it is bad to do. They also spoke to a Dodge Service Manager who stated that they routinely replace prematurely worn balljoints and halfshafts because of people over cranking their torsion bars. Thats about all I can tell ya about this.

Todd


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93 F-150 4x2, 4.9L, E-4OD, 3.08 rearend, 31x10.5 BFG A/T's, Skyjacker Softride Hydro Shocks,K&N Airfilter, Jacobs Electronics Plug Wires/Rotor/Cap. (Other mods: Undecided!)