Sorry to hear that. Hopefully he will get it worked out soon.

 

Talked to tuner today. Cylinder 4 has a leak of 30lbs compared to all other cylinders. Gonna have to pull motor and see what's broke. Tuner also suggested switching from HT0 plugs to brisk. Love doing the same thing twice

 

Man that just sucks...
Hopefully once he pulls the blower he'll find whatever it is right at the valve. Crossing my fingers that it's a nice soft rag or something silly holding open the intake valve..

 

I wish it was something that simple but I doubt it. Tuner thinks either piston rings or piston itself because he did a leak down. Picking up the truck tonight will have motor out next week and drop to have fixed really hoping its nothing too serious but my luck....who knows

 

amazing build, wish you luck, hope its easy fix

 

Sorry haven't updated. Dropped the engine off not too long ago been busy as hell. Also the builder requested me to drop of my intake manifold. He found a hole in piston 4. He ordered a new one and now waiting on that

 

who has done a non lightning built motor that worked out?

I feel for you. sounds like you did it right and didnt go cheap.

 

Yea definitely didn't go cheap want to be one of a kind and do things different than others. I think this happened due to builder fault he thinks opposite I guess we'll find out when it's back together

 

That's odd. I had the same scenario when my motor was taken apart. The engine builder said that there was a chunk missing from piston #4. I wonder what causes just piston #4 to fail.



Piston #4

 

Was that before or after you had your engine built? The strap and electrode on my spark plug for #4 was gone too. My engine didnt run right ever since I had it in and running. I think the builder mistimed my motor 180* he thinks it is something with my intake/gasket. The tuner did everything to see if a part was failing or misreading couldnt find anything he thinks its mechanical too. He switched coils around, switched o2 sensors from side to side. Added fuel to bank 1 which was the side that was lean and it wouldnt even want to start.

 

That was before I had mine built, when it still had the Roush Blower on it. Ever since I put JE forged pistons into it, I haven't had a problem. They never did seem to figure out what cause just that piston to fail. They said everything else was in good shape. I do recall them say that only the #4 coil pack had to be replaced as well. When they put the motor back in it after it was built, I haven't had any problems with the pistons. I am having a problem now with the tensioner slapping around. If they take the belt off and start the motor it doesn't do it, but as soon as they put the belt back on it starts slapping around again. I replaced the tensioner with a heavy duty one, I switched over to the 8 rib setup and it still does it when the truck gets up to temp. They have replaced all of the pulleys, replaced water pump, a/c compressor and still does it. Now they are trying the alternator and then last but not least the power steering. He said that was about a 1% chance that it was the power steering, so he wanted to try the alternator first. Anyways, that's my problem. I hope you can get yours fixed and up and running without any issues. I'll ask them about that piston again when I go up there to see if they tell me something that I don't happen to remember.

Good Luck my friend.

 

Just curious, where is the wrist-pin in relationship to the piston break? Or is there any valve that could have touched down in the area of the break?

 

Is your manual belt tensioner supplied from whipple tight on the belt as well? Mine was doing the same so I tightened the manual belt tensioner even more and it went away. I've made a lot of changes while waiting on my engine and also bought a few new parts. Purchased all new coil packs since I still had the stockers with 163k and the Granatelli coil spring upgrade, new power steering pump and lines, new steering shaft since mine was binding and had play, new canton oil pan with arp bolts and a mmr oil pickup tube spacer, relocated my battery to the bed and put the intercooler tank where the battery sits and bought a set of brisk plugs. According to the builder no valve was harmed or cylinder wall, just a bad piston. I'll post a picture when I get my engine back. I don't think I'll bring my engine back to this guy he takes forever to do anything. I didn't hear back from him on what was wrong for almost 2 months. You mean to tell me he couldn't have the head and oil pan off within a few hours? I could do that without using power tools next go around I'll build the engine myself. Have another 5.4 laying around so will probably learn on that

 

Any updates?

 

Suppose to have my engine back this week