05 5.4 3v build thread

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  #46  
Old 10-02-2015, 12:52 PM
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Received a call today from the guy doing my transmission said its all done. Had to replace more stuff in the transmission than expected but good to know everything is all freshened up and new. Engine is still being worked on. Apparently the company the engine builder ordered the valves from for the heads sent him the wrong ones so thats been the biggest issue thus far. After the correct valves are installed I will be getting the motor back! (hopefully this upcoming week but who knows) then get on my high horse to install it and finally get my truck fired back up
 
  #47  
Old 10-16-2015, 06:53 PM
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I'll just leave this here




Ill just leave this here
 
  #48  
Old 10-17-2015, 12:22 AM
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Perdy....
 
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Old 10-17-2015, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
Perdy....
I think it's time I start hunting for another 3v to start building too..
 
  #50  
Old 11-09-2015, 11:40 AM
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Well I'm pulling the motor in the next day or so.. Any tips or tricks to mention? Il take all the little details you can offer to pull the motor out.. Like what was your solution with the torque converter bolts?
You think I can pull it with the ps pump still attached and avoid discharging the AC by letting the compressor hang?
I'm putting JBA short tube headers on too, think they will drop in pre installed to the motor without too much issue?
Any tips or insight are greatly appreciate..
 
  #51  
Old 11-09-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
Well I'm pulling the motor in the next day or so.. Any tips or tricks to mention? Il take all the little details you can offer to pull the motor out.. Like what was your solution with the torque converter bolts?
You think I can pull it with the ps pump still attached and avoid discharging the AC by letting the compressor hang?
I'm putting JBA short tube headers on too, think they will drop in pre installed to the motor without too much issue?
Any tips or insight are greatly appreciate..
Torque converter is easy. Remove the starter boss plug on the driverside. Using a 1/2" ratchet, extension and socket (think it's a 19mm) turn the crankshaft clockwise till you see a torque converter nut exposed. (Should be 15mm). Remove. Turn crank a bit more untill you remove all four nuts. Don't reuse old nuts on put back. Use Mr Gasket #6717.

Headers. Sell or return the shorties. Go LT.

When disconnecting trans lines if you find any of the o-rings are compromised you can replace them with Danco #5 o-ring part number 06722. (3/8 od, 1/4 id, 1/16)
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; 11-09-2015 at 06:30 PM.
  #52  
Old 11-09-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
Torque converter is easy. Remove the starter boss plug on the driverside. Using a 1/2" ratchet, extension and socket (think it's a 19mm) turn the crankshaft clockwise till you see a torque converter nut exposed. (Should be 15mm). Remove. Turn crank a bit more untill you remove all four nuts. Don't reuse old nuts on put back. Use Mr Gasket #6717.

Headers. Sell or return the shorties. Go LT.

When disconnecting trans lines if you find any of the o-rings are compromised you can replace them with Danco #5 o-ring part number 06722. (3/8 od, 1/4 id, 1/16)
Your the man!
Good plan for the TC.. And I will order those nuts tonight..

I can't do LT's right now, which require a significant amount of fab.. The shorties should plug right up to the high flow cats I already adapted to stock manifolds. I just need to get up and running at this point.. Too damn busy with work and low on the fun money too.. Just got married in September on my dime and now this..
Just got the motor today and wouldn't you know it, they gave me fricken dorman cam phasers.. Now I'm debating pulling them off and swapping with OE.. They even threw in some dorman vct solenoids that I won't be using too.. Otherwise the motor looks clean and well made, with factory parts outside of the dorman crap.. Really disappointed with this finding.. I'd need the chain wedge to swap the phasers now.. Still debating about just running the dormans..

Any more tips? keep them coming!!
 
  #53  
Old 11-13-2015, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
Your the man!
Good plan for the TC.. And I will order those nuts tonight..

I can't do LT's right now, which require a significant amount of fab.. The shorties should plug right up to the high flow cats I already adapted to stock manifolds. I just need to get up and running at this point.. Too damn busy with work and low on the fun money too.. Just got married in September on my dime and now this..
Just got the motor today and wouldn't you know it, they gave me fricken dorman cam phasers.. Now I'm debating pulling them off and swapping with OE.. They even threw in some dorman vct solenoids that I won't be using too.. Otherwise the motor looks clean and well made, with factory parts outside of the dorman crap.. Really disappointed with this finding.. I'd need the chain wedge to swap the phasers now.. Still debating about just running the dormans..

Any more tips? keep them coming!!
Sorry haven't been on in awhile been so busy with work haven't had too much time to work on the truck or go on here but I did get the motor in and mounted the OBX headers. I bought the dorman vct solenoids they look like they flow more over stock so we'll I'll try and give you the instructions I remember doing. BTW I'd prob drop your trans first it may be easier cause the slides were all rusted on mine and the motor wouldn't break free from the trans but anyways here we go.
Remove the air intake
Remove the intake manifold
Remove as many pullies as you
Remove clutch fan or Evans
Remove radiator
Remove wiring harness
Remove heater hose remove fuel rail
Unbolt transmission dipstick
Unbolt the 2 nuts under the crank pulley that hold the transmission cooler lines
Drop the power steering and ac
Unbolt the stud that holds the ac line to motor on passenger side
Unbolt motor mount bolts 2 on passenger side one on drivers
Take off knock sensors
There's also a bolt that holds the wiring harness to the back of the motor

Hope this helps I'll post a pic of the motor in the engine bay in a minute if you have any other questions just ask. What happened to your original motor?
 
  #54  
Old 11-13-2015, 08:52 PM
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Sitting pretty
 
  #55  
Old 11-14-2015, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy


Sitting pretty
Looks great!
How much were those valve covers? What color are they?
Maybe il paint mine with that wrinkle finish..

Thanks for the tips!
Was loosening the tranny worth it? I have 4wd so I'm not sure how much wiggle room I'd get..
Looks like you snuck it in without pulling the radiator core support which I was expecting to pull..
Did you discharge the AC to get around the line on pass side Valve cover?
My motor dropped a valve on cylinder 3 from a broken valve spring.. I got a reman from AER I'm hopefully installing this week..
 
  #56  
Old 11-14-2015, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
Looks great!
How much were those valve covers? What color are they?
Maybe il paint mine with that wrinkle finish..

Thanks for the tips!
Was loosening the tranny worth it? I have 4wd so I'm not sure how much wiggle room I'd get..
Looks like you snuck it in without pulling the radiator core support which I was expecting to pull..
Did you discharge the AC to get around the line on pass side Valve cover?
My motor dropped a valve on cylinder 3 from a broken valve spring.. I got a reman from AER I'm hopefully installing this week..
I think I paid $250. They are powdercoated blue. Your not gonna want to do the core support unless you plan on cutting it and welding it back. My opinion I would drop the trans I wish I would of done that first instead of taking everything apart on the motor. My slides were so rusted we were lifting the motor up and down with a fork lift and it finally broke free. My truck is 4x4 as well. Yes I did discharge the A/C. Sorry to hear about to hear about your motor sounds like it had a good run. Oh also if you take your crank pulley off and water pump pulley along with the rest of your pullies it will be so much easier clearing the core support
 
  #57  
Old 11-14-2015, 01:05 PM
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Here's a pic with the OBX longtubes
 
  #58  
Old 11-14-2015, 06:55 PM
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So you put the motor back with the LT headers bolted on, and the crank pulley and water pump pulley removed? But the water pump was still attached?

At least you managed to sneak the LTs in with the motor all in one shot..

So your motor was rusted pretty good on to the mounts? Or the mounts were rusted To the frame?
 
  #59  
Old 11-15-2015, 02:53 PM
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Looking great!! Is your whipple 2.3L? If so, I was told that 3.0 upper was the smallest that they made. Your build is going good, can't wait to see it done!
 
  #60  
Old 11-15-2015, 06:04 PM
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Especial - No there wasnt a chance in hell it would have fit with them on, with shortys it'd probably fit so I just put the motor in and then mounted the longtubes the pic above was just to show how they looked. I only removed the pump pulley. The motor mounts werent really rusted to either they were just rusted as hell in general.

05 Rousch Tuscany - Yes I do have the 2.3 they probably only make it that small for the 6 rib pullies. Im going the same route twinskrewd did and going 8. Lightning's run 8 rib so I bought the pulley that was for a lightning which is the 2.50 8 rib
 


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