Crash, I will try and skype you tomorrow morning my time, so, um, after work your time
I think my belts are aligned ok, just have the tensioner pulley rubbing

Mach1, I will let oyu know what we come up with

Also wanting to locate a supplier that will send me a procharger pulleyof around the 3" 3.1" size, and the appropriate replacement belt to allow for thepulley size difference ... crash?? Down your alley hey (I am not seeing over 5psi wot, and I have a 3.7 currently)

 

I am confused at this part, I am running a 3.80 pulley and seeing 9.6 lbs boost, your crank pulley must be a different size than Mach. Good luck with it all and standing by.

 

Mach1, my crank pulley measures approx 7.68".
What rpm are you getting that boost?

Crash, my belts are aligned fine, it is just the lateral play in the tensioner that allows it to rub on the main bracket as pictured above.
I have just done a radiator in my truck, so it is off the road for a week and a half until I get a new one,
So I am going to be able to play with a few things

Also, I dont want to know about politics, just f150s

 

Mach1, my crank pulley measures approx 7.68".
What rpm are you getting that boost?

You have same diameter crank pulley as me, I am seeing that boost around 6000-6150 RPM. You have to remember, P1's love RPM, I am making max Tq at 4250 RPM

 

Ok.so that makes sense to me now, i never take my truck out to near the 6000rpm mark. Most is prob only 4500. So in my simple, western australian mind, the psi figures correlate ( me not seeing more than 4 or 5.
So my next question is- if i put like a 3.0 pulley (vs the current 3.7) on to raise the psi, i should be seeing higher numbers in my lower rpm yeah? (3.0 was recomended to me by a sort of local procharger mob, based on the figures i gave them, they say it would take it up to around 12.
Also. If i swap out pulley, how much shorter belt will i need ??

 

You can go with a 3.0 to raise boost BUT, and a BIG but...if you have stock internals, you don't want to be messing around with that much boost especially without controlling your timing. I am only at 14 degrees timing, very conservative tune. As well, will your present fuel system setup handle that much boost?. Remember, everything has to go up together as a package, increase one and you have to go up on another. You need a good tune and findout

Timing
Fuel pump duty cycle
A/F ratio at WOT

Also, at 12 psi you are getting close to D1 Procharger territory and really close or right at maxing out the P1

I see where your thinking is but unfortunately it doesn't work that way. Just because you raise boost does not correlate to lower rpm per say. Yes, you will make more boost as you increase rpm, but not sure, or have never heard of, someone using a pulley swap to gain boost at a lower rpm. My 2 cents would be a good tuner can tweak your timing (raise), to get more HP at your current boost levels. I am not sure if you are running stock internals or your motor has been built. My opinion is I would go no lower than a 3.4 on the pulley.

Concerning belt size, a call to ProCharger will get that answer, I am running a 3.85 blower pulley, and have used a gates 108 3/4" part number K061080 (the Goodyear Gator back belt is a hair smaller), they can guide you to the right answer for this with your make and model vehicle. Let me know what you find out, and I will stress again, a good tuner is a MUST!!!!!!

 

Mach1, if you read my thread, you will realise what i have donr to the engine, is is fully rebuilt with forged internals, everything is there to cope with high psi.

 

Forgive me you are right, you can go up in boost but just make sure about the D1/P1 issue, I know I have read about the max boost and impeller speed for a P1, there is a chart somewhere I am trying to find
Remember its about the blowers ability to reach a cfm efficiently. If you went with the D1 it would make more power at the same boost level as the P1 with less heat and stress on the blower.

Here are the numbers:
Procharger:
P1 - 1200 CFM
D1 - 1400 CFM
F1A - 1650 CFM

Max crank HP from Blower CFM:
1000 CFM = 680 supportable HP
1200 CFM = 825 supportable HP
1400 CFM = 925 supportable HP
1600 CFM = 1200 supportable HP

From my reading form Procharger, the P1 will go up to 25 to 30, so your goal of 12 is reasonable ( also 18psi on one motor may only be 14psi on another,Psi from one car to the next is going to vary based on other supporting mods)and you should be good with swapping pulley, since you don't do alot of WOT pulls, P1 should be fine, just not sure how small pulley you can go on a stock crank pulley..oh the questions lol

This may help

http://www.procharger.com/models.shtml

Also note the column that says "Motor base HP", that will affect your output post P1 of course

 

Cheers mach1. I will look into those pages..
It was the local procharger guy , well sort of local, told me we should be looking at a 3.0,
The thing wasgetting at was, put simply, if, at 4500rpm, i achieving, for example 70% of available boost, eg 6psi of a 9psi setup. It only makes sense to me that on a 12or so psi setup and you get eg70% at 4500 rpm i should bw gettimg more boost where i need it.
The figures above are purely as an example, for me to try and explain my p.o.v.

 

I cannot quite make out if you solved your tensionner rubbing issue but if you haven't I would like to know if the mark left by the tensionner is a complete circle or a crescent? If a full circle then the tensionner needs to be shimmed away from the mounting plate. If it is a crescent then the tensionner is bent. I had a similar problem and came to realize that tensionner was kaput. Crash shipped me a new one. Problem solved.

 

JMC, to tell you the truth, I havent tacked it yet, slack I know,.... from what I see without taking it off, it is a crescent shape, I reckon I need a new one.

 

Before you condemn the tensionner check the bearing on the tensionner pulley. If it is loose it will allow the pulley to gouge the mounting plate. If the tensionner is bending then the pulley alignment could be off. If the belt is riding the pulley on the side closest to the engine when you tighten the tensionner it tries to pull it closer to the mounting plate and bends the tensionner.

 

I took apart the tensioner today, there is a lot of wear and tear inside it where the three springs sit, the bearings on the tensioner pulley are fine, however the lower 2 of three id
Pulleys are a bit suss, so I will replace them.
There is no real way of shimming the tensioner behind the tensioner pulley which is how I was thinking I could fix it,
So I tgink I will be purchasing a new one, now, should I go ati procharger or other brand?