The electrodes melting off are what I don't understand. They still have be in there somewhere don't they?
We have seen this before too...
This is why we use NGK TR6s. The electrodes burn off before you hammer holes in pistons. Detonation or Pre-ignition causes extreme cylinder and exhaust temperatures and melts them off. So, the side electrode is sacrificial. The pieces are pushed out the exhaust. It is a bad sign because it normally indicates a lean burn.
Mike Troyer says ATI never intended the system on my truck to be mated with such a low compression built motor begging for lots of boost.
What is the actual static compression ratio?
The P-1SC is suited for stock engines, but the D-1SC is considered a race blower. That is why you do not have the option to get the 3/36 warranty on the D1.
In either case, we are looking for 8-8.5:1 and you can push it up to 9 but high compression builds are going to blow under a high boost level, intercooler or not.
Compression is 8:4:1. After searching around, I think it must have been running lean somehow. Why didn't the gauge show it, or the CEL come on? Something is bad wrong, I just don't know what it is right now. Remember new plugs didn't help at all, and 5 of the old ones were trash when I took them out.
Motor in truck is probably screwed up because of what it did to plugs. Troyer is supposed to call me, but I guess we will see if that happens. If the motor has been screwed up because of tuning or something that the supercharger did, the **** is gonna hit the fan. If anyone had any idea of how much money I just spent on this truck, they would freak the Hell out. I am so pissed, I can hardly control myself.
Just got through replacing plugs in truck. Half of the plugs had the electrodes almost completely burned off of them. What could of caused this to happen? I never noticed a miss untill supercharger went bad. After seeing this, I thought for sure they were causing the bad miss. Well it wasn't the plugs, cause the miss is still there. I just can't figure what the problem is. This has me completely baffled. The check engine light should be coming on as bad as it is running shouldn't it? Right now I hate this Damn truck.
What spark plugs are you running? We need to use a Copper core plug and they should be gapped to .035". Platinum plugs should not be used. You also need to go to two ranges cooler plugs. A 170 degree thermostat is a good idea too. On the dyno (9 years ago), we used the stock plugs and I watched the headers glow red hot. After swapping plugs (2 valve), combustion temperatures went back down and combustion temperatures went down too. You can imagine what the cylinder sees if the headers are glowing. To qualify this, it was a stock engine with a P1-SC and a few bolt ons.
ProCharger specifically specifies COPPER PLUGS. Gap to .035" because the spark WILL blow out. Didn't believe it at first but we proved it.
All of these symptoms indicate a lean A/F curve. I agree on getting a data logger so you can document the A/F ratio because a lean burn will cause this. As I said, had the electrodes not burned off, detonation could have caused ring lands to blow off or it would hammer holes in pistons. Again, we have seen this before but we learned it the hard way LONG ago.
97-99- Use an equivalent to the Motorcraft AWSF-22C (NON PI) 4 threads.
99-03- Use an equivalent to the Motorcraft AGSF-22C (PI) 8 threads.
Gap to .035". These are Copper core plugs. I will check on the 3 valves for 04 and up. We use NGK TR-6s to ENSURE the electrodes burn off before engine damage occurs. Again, all track and dyno experience.
Did a thorough examination of truck today. I found the main cause of the miss. The drivers side injector closest to the firewall had the plug hanging half of the way off. I could not see it, and that was the problem. While I had my hand back there trying to make sure the plug wires were connected, I just happened to feel it move. Once I got it plugged back up, the miss was gone. I slowly took it up the road for a test drive, and the CEL FINALLY came on. 2 codes popped up, P0171 and P0174. Why would it wait to be fixed before the codes came up? It still has a very slight miss, but hopefully that's the older plugs I put in there to test it. I am gonna put a few miles on these, and then put new ones in there. I am afraid to hammer it yet, cause something strange still caused the other plugs to burn up. I am going to take Crashes advice and try the ngk plugs. If something is still wrong, I will gladly replace plugs to save the motor.
PLEASE take it easy on the LOUD PEDAL until you get this all worked out. Continue inspection to ensure nothing else was neglected in the install/upgrade.
PLEASE take it easy on the LOUD PEDAL until you get this all worked out. Continue inspection to ensure nothing else was neglected in the install/upgrade.
Will definately take it easy on her. Gonna keep checking those plugs daily if truck is driven that day. I am keeping Xcallibrator in truck just in case codes POP up again.
Please save the engine! I want to see what this thing is going to do on the dyno! Put the new plugs in her, do the additional pulley for more belt wrap around the S/C pulley, get it dyno tuned for the lean codes, and then do a MAX power pull to see your new numbers! I am dying to find out what it will lay down! Good luck!
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Current ride...
2002 FX4 Screw with a flex a lite Efan installed
L swap supercharger work in progress...
Still gathering all the parts I need for the swap
Please save the engine! I want to see what this thing is going to do on the dyno! Put the new plugs in her, do the additional pulley for more belt wrap around the S/C pulley, get it dyno tuned for the lean codes, and then do a MAX power pull to see your new numbers! I am dying to find out what it will lay down! Good luck!
That actually sounds very good. I like the way Formula thinks!
Thanks guys. Nobody wants to see what she will do on the dyno without belt slip more than me. I saw where she was heading on the dyno before the belt started slipping at just 5000 rpms, and it killed me that we had to stop tuning at that point. She can turn 7000 rpms without engine damage, so I have a long way to go if we can get her setup correctly.
you need to get that tune fixed. the only reason the electrodes burn off is from extreme heat and detonation. run NGK TR6 plugs they are 2.35 ea from autozone i think the NGK part number is 4166. change the plugs and i would gap them small like around 28-30 it will reduce fuel burn till you get your tune figured out and keep the mixture rich.
I now am hearing what sounds like a tweety bird coming from somewhere. Sorry for the crazy explanation, but thats just what comes to mind when I hear it. I am gonna take it to a local shop around here Monday morning to get some things diagnosed. He is gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like. I have put 100 miles on em since putting them in, so maby he can tell what is happening to em. I will have him go ahead and put a new set in while its there.
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