I've been away from the forums for a while, and I still have not gotten around to installing a boost guage on my Roush'd 2008 F-150 Limited. I saw an Autometer guage yesterday at Pep Boys that would match my existing Limited guages perfectly: brushed aluminum face, black lettering, with red needle. However, the Autometer guage installs via a fitting that must be drilled into my intake manifold (or so said the Pep Boy salesman). I really don't want to drill into my manifold if there's an easier way to install. Isn't there a way to "Tee" into one of the boost/vacuum lines on the back of the supercharger somewhere?
not familiar with your year of truck but.. look for the vacuum line that runs into your Fuel pressure regulator witch should be on your drivers side fuel rail just t that line and you will be just fine..
CW Cobra: I agree with "01Lightning". I have my boost gauge mounted to a custom made "Pod" on my driver's side front sill.
The only thing needed is to "T" tap a suitable vacuum line that is as close to the manifold as possible. Since I was already replacing my "Spaghetti-Tubing"; I arranged for a brass, "T" tap; off of the tube leading away from the manifold (98, Romeo, 4.6Ltr.). On my engine that feed is on the manifold, right below the T-Body,on the L-side of the engine.
I used high temp. emission hose for the part of the run that is over the engine. Then I extended the vacuum line up to my front piller (funny I forget how to spell that).by going down the wheel well, and up the weather stripping until I reach the mounting pod.
I provided a pass way for the vacuum tube by drilling a suitable hole at the bottom of the cable channel which runs under the doorway. I did use a water-proof bulk head penetration to clamp the hose, and prevent moisture,water entrance.
You can tap into the IP Lighting Circuit for power to operate the internal light of the gauge. I don't know what color that circuit is in a F-150, but in an Expy. it is Lt.Blue/red. If it is not the same in a F-150; check the lamp in the ash tray for the appropriate color pair. Maybe you can even tap the power from there.
Have a nice weekend.
"98X"
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im not sure about your roush setup, but my non-ic has a vacuum line capped off coming out of the rear of the manifold. in the installation instructions, i believe it said that this was a place for mounting a boost guage.
now that being said, i installed my boost guage to the line and i dont get correct readings on my guage. at idle it reads a big vacuum and just gets to 0 or 1 psi of boost at WOT. it also shows a decent vacuum even when the motor is off, which im not sure is normal or not. i dont know if this is because of the line being incorrect or just a faulty guage. i think i remember trying a different vacuum line and getting the same results. maybe someone else with a roush will chime in...
dont drill any holes though, that guy didnt know what he was talking about...
dude this is very easy if you pop your hood look at the drivers side of the blower pretty much all the way to the fire wall you will see a T fitting with a little black cap or plug you simply side you nylon boost line into it i know i didnt think it would stay but mine has bin there for like a year now no issues if you cant find it pm.
When the engine is off, the guage should read "0". The guage may be faulty.
With a normal idle vacuum signal at idle (17-20" vacuum), "0" on the guage at WOT means you have the line connected to a vacuum source on the inlet side of the blower. Find a source on the intake manifold (on the discharge side of the blower), and trace it to a T. The nylon line from the guage can be T'd into a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold.
When the engine is off, the guage should read "0". The guage may be faulty.
With a normal idle vacuum signal at idle (17-20" vacuum), "0" on the guage at WOT means you have the line connected to a vacuum source on the inlet side of the blower. Find a source on the intake manifold (on the discharge side of the blower), and trace it to a T. The nylon line from the guage can be T'd into a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold.
thanks, ill try to find a different line to tap into. i dont care if it its messed up when its off if it gives accurate readings while running, but it may be bad all together, we'll see...
Is the needle at 10 PSI engine off? If it is, then you would see 10 units off normal under all conditions. That is if the guage works but is out of calibration. In the example above, if you expect to see 17-20" vacuum at ldle (you should), then the guage in the image above would peg negative (vacuum) at idle. Then under WOT it would show 0-1 PSI under boost if you have a connection to a MANIFOLD source, because the needle is already 10 units off.
I would consider that guage to be faulty. You can get a cheap vacuum guage at a parts store. You can use it to verify the MANIFOLD vacuum port you connect the guage to and to verify the accuracy of the Autometer guage. I would replace the guage it if the needle does not rest inside the "0" square on the face of the guage.
Is the needle at 10 PSI engine off? If it is, then you would see 10 units off normal under all conditions. That is if the guage works but is out of calibration. In the example above, if you expect to see 17-20" vacuum at ldle (you should), then the guage in the image above would peg negative (vacuum) at idle. Then under WOT it would show 0-1 PSI under boost if you have a connection to a MANIFOLD source, because the needle is already 10 units off.
I would consider that guage to be faulty. You can get a cheap vacuum guage at a parts store. You can use it to verify the MANIFOLD vacuum port you connect the guage to and to verify the accuracy of the Autometer guage. I would replace the guage it if the needle does not rest inside the "0" square on the face of the guage.
I agree with Crash!...from the looks of that pic, that boost gauge is definitely way off. I had an Autometer Lunar series boost gauge that used to sit at 5" vacuum when the truck was off. I always thought it was normal until I noticed I was getting low boost at WOT. I called up Autometer and they said it's definitely supposed to sit in the "0" box when the vehicle is off. Caused my boost reading to be about 5 psi lower as a result. Got a new boost gauge from Autometer, it sits in the "0" box, and all is well. Call up Autometer and tell them what the gauge is doing...they have excellent customer service and should replace it free of charge
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'99 5.4L Flareside F150 - Procharged @12 psi, 42 lb injectors, 90mm MAF, dyno tuned via Xcal2, JBA headers, hi flow cats, Flowmaster 40 si/do, Transgo shift kit, Eaton posi, some other do dads..
Anywhere post-throttle body should give you and accurate reading. I T'd into the main vacuum line going to the vac. reservoir on my truck. It's not difficult to find a large line coming off the lower manifold to tap into. Do not tap into a vacuum line that is routed to any sensor like EGR or FPR, that's just asking for trouble. I also did what Crash recommended with a $15 parts store manifold gauge to make sure my Boost gauge is reading correctly.
Idle reading:
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2000 F-150, 5.4L, SuperCab, Flareside, ATI ProCharger
James, I understand what you mean, but it really depends on the system.
On the Roush, see the three vacuum ports on the TB adapter? By design, they will NEVER see boost because they are on the INLET side of the blower. Yet they are a MANIFOLD vacuum source because they are BEHIND the TB. If you were to use one of them you would read normal idle and then the guage would stop at "0" under WOT. Huitt is right.
[quote=justjames80;3672534] Do not tap into a vacuum line that is routed to any sensor like EGR or FPR, that's just asking for trouble. QUOTE]
The nipple going to the FPR is the only option I have on my blower and is were the instructions say to tap for it ... I totaly understand why you wouldn't want it there.. I guess when I had the S/C off last time to drill and tap for a IAT sensor I should have drilled a port for the boost gauge....
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