the F1 head unit would be ideal but ATI claims the P1 will push up to 30psi and an 8 rib belt set up will probably be more cost effective

 

Certainly not spinning that blower anywhere near close to its max efficiency range. Going to a D1 or F1 head unit won't help unless you rebuild the engine and get the heads ported with some cams. Going to spend a minimum of $1000 to have you're P1 converted to a D1 and used head units are no cheaper. Boost isn't the issue as much as it is the CFM and there is a lot you can do before maxing out that P1.

 

Off subject, but how often should the P1's be rebuilt...bearings, etc.?

 

The P1 might push a hell of a lot of boost in a little 4 banger, but would never spin fast enough for that to happen in my motor. Mine actually dropped 2 lbs of boost from stock to ported heads.

 

that's normal, jus tlike adding long tube headers to an eaton you'll lose 2psi, hence the desire for the 8 rib system and the readily avialable crank pullies

 

I wonder what your tuner means by efficient? Maybe the discharge temps from the s/c are too high? Assuming you have an intercooler, meth/water injection can drop the iat temps as much as 80*. Kits start at $ 200.

It looks like an additional idler - 2 - 2.5" - could be easily mounted at about 5 o'clock on the front of the Prochargers, either by replacing the mounting bolt with a longer one, or countersinking a bolt from the back. There is probably another 1 1/2" of wrap available there.

 

do you have a 3 core innercooler? eventually I'll have a superduty innercooler for my truck

 

I can't recall who it is, but that has already been done...maybe Ganiman Whoever it is, say it's works well.

CDB

 

There isn't a schedule for them. If there is a problem it is usually a seal that can be easily replaced. Nothing else is user serviceable really. I just made up a phantom leak and sent mine back to ProCharger for them to check out before my warranty expired. Not a big deal as the P1's do tend to leak a little. The D1's supposedly have better seals and bearings but hard to justify $1000+ hit to upgrade.

 

I was just curious. I figured if there was a bearing or gear going bad, you might not be able to hear it over the whistling. I thought there might be a general service time besides the oil changes.

Thanks, CDB

 

I would be curious how that works out. One thing I noticed is that my truck ran hotter in traffic when the intercooler was directly in front of the rad. In the winter I run a 180° thermostat and in the summer I run a 160°. The stock thermostat was way too hot. L's run a 180° from the factory.

JMC

 

Yup,that was me.I upgraded all the idlers to 3" in plastic ones,in addition to adding an extra for more belt wrap.The larger diameter keeps bearing speeds lower and I havent serviced any in almost 3 years.Im really happy w/ the setup,but once I rebuild and up the boost to 17-18psi an 8 rib would be ideal.At my current 12psi setup,6 rib is fine.

 

Oh I got the motor for it, that's for sure. It can easily handle 20 lbs of boost from the Procharger. Maby because of the way the motor is built could be the reason that the effiency dropped when we tried a smaller pulley on it.

 

Yes I have the 3 core on it.

 

i guess I'll try to run a larger diameter lighting 8 rib crank pulley with a 6 rib belt (17psi pullied) and add an extra idler at the top, then install an external waste gate set at 14 psi before the innercooler to make 12psi into the engine about 3400rpms and hten it'll pull harder down low and still maintain the top end charge