This is my first post here so Hello Gent's! I was wondering I have a 97 f150 king cab I want to turn into a lowrider. I want to notch the rear frame but not sure how big of notch. Im going to build my own 6 link for the rear with bag over bar setup cause I cant see paying so much for something I can fab myself. I was wondering if anyone has some knowledge to pass on about bagging a f150?

This will be my first ever build and I am totally new to the whole bagged truck thing. I would like to hear the in's and out's of whats the best setup to go with. I know I want the bag over bar cause I read a lot on how it is smoother riding and you get more lift but as far as anything else I don't know jack about it.

Whats the best setup as compressor and tanks and batteries and switches? I have fabrication skills but would like to hear from someone that has been doing bagged trucks for a while and knows what works and doesn't.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

 

smoother ride and more lift with bag on bar yes....but less payload because of the lever effect.
With SS8 you get 10" of lift on a BOA..You really need more...when the front won't get very much more then 10-12" anyways.

Notch size: the smallest you can get to lay the frame is the best (small step in the bed)

I layed my 07 last winter and it take quite a while even with kits.
If you take your time to learn the ins and out of a 6 link and can gather and fab the link and mount: Go ahead.


Planning to go with a panhard or a watts link?
What about the front?

I was very happy with my rear MMW notch, 4link bag over axle and watts link kit.
A little less with my front kit and had to figure out some problem but it was pretty straight forward. Still have some alignement issue that I will solve later this winter.

97/03 are easier to lay the front then the 04+


Compressor: I went with a EDC SD709 that I mount with an Alternator dual pully.
Still need to block the oil passage but with a recirculating oil separator, it's been working flawless all summer.
Tank: 2 3gallon mounted in the spare space (I lost it cause of the watts link anyways...was planning to mount then to the side of the frame between the wheel and rear bumper but since I lost the spare, it was easier to put them in the spare space.)
Valves: 8 SMC 3/8 with 3/8 copper hardline on swagelock fitting.
Controls: with AVS digital gauge and AVS-7 switch.

 

Thanks for the reply MAX. I havent even researched the front as far as what to do. I read some where that you flip the ball joint or the lower control arm. Not sure.

But how does the BOA ride. I have to admit I havent rode in a bagged truck to say I like one or the other but just read the bag over bar is smoother but in the same breath I still want to be able to use it to tow my 18 ft bassboat and was worried that the lever wouldn't handle the weight.

Im thinking of the panhard bar instead of the watts cause it's simple. But I might look for a kit for the watts like you did cause to build the watts link I think there is too much to go wrong.

So were you able to lay frame without a body drop? So you went with a pulley mounted compressor? How does that work does it have a pressure relief valve and is that route better then the batteries and electric compressor?

Thanks a million for the reply.

 

bag on bar ride smoother for sure. the bar would handle the weight.
BOA ride good but SS8 and low PSI (~half the lift). I wouldn't like to run a SS6-7 with higher PSI to reach height.

I doubt bag on bar would have issue to tow a bass boat(boat generally don't have that much weight on the pin.

My frame is layed..not the body.

watts it pretty easy went you understand it but yeah : Panhard is very straight forward and plenty enough for normal use.

compressor: Search : It's very popular on offroad rig(more then street) It's more complicated then a electric compressor that you just plug in.
(mounting bracket, oil separator, modifying the compressor) you have a lot of reading left. I prefer it cause 0 -200 psi(6g tank) just can't be acheive as fast with electric(less then 2min (180-200 in a couple of seconds)

 

I'm static 5/7 suspension drop with another 1" of tire drop. I'm 4" off the ground

I've got full frame notch. (Not a step notch) And the Axle sits even with the bottom of the frame. I bet I could lay or almost lay the frame as is

 

Hey maxpat is the motor mounted compressor more reliable apposed to the electric ones? Thanks for the information about the compressor to look on 4x4 sites I really never thought of looking there. They have the air lockers for the diff's.

Hey patman you have a full frame notch? I don't want to sound stupid but here it goes! What is a full frame notch? And you are already close to laying frame now? Do you have a air suspension setup? If so what is your setup if you don't mind me asking?

 

EDC can be very reliable with the right (easy) modification/setup
-blocking the output oil port
- a good oil/air separator
-checking and adding some (emptying the separator canister, and adjusting)
(I have a custom setup a bit like kilby enterprise that always recirculate the oil to the EDC through a low pressure regulator(5-10psi) ) Never really have to look at it.

They are 2-3time faster then electric one and way more quiet.(can't really know the compressor is running or not if you're not used to it.)

 

So a mini notch is less than the height of the frame
Full frame notch is equal to the top of the frame
Step notch goes up past the top of the frame


I'm running springs and arms
Rear is hangers, shackles, leafs
And lots of notching and clearance modifications