They are Coverking custom ordered. They are usually black with a colored center but I talked with customer service and got a hold of a guy that hooked me up. It cost a lot more but worth it in my opinion.

 

So since all this work has been done, I have tried very hard to keep is as close to pristine as humanly possible. I have worked very hard to get her to this point. Once you get a truck to this level you are always looking for ways to keep it competitive at car shows. I have done competition car audio in the past and thought maybe toying around with a small upgrade to keep things fresh. I have a great system now but nothing like going over the top a little for ****s and giggles sake. I already have a High output Bosch Alternator and a 20 farad digital cap, Polk mids and highs with 2 x 12 inch kicker comp R's. The original System was wired with 1/0 power and grounds. I just installed a 500 amp relay/ battery isolator and and improved The big three with better grade cable and platinum connectors with glue sealed heat shrink. The two cables on the positive terminal are temporary till I get a little more cable to soften the curve in to the battery. From the solenoid to the battery pos. will have a 350 amp ANL fuse. like I said temporary so I can drive around. From the new relay/ Isolator will be another 1/0 gauge going to the bed to charge 2 x 2000 watt AGM power cells for the next phase. All the new cable is 5100 strand over sized 1/0. It required me drilling every connector out to 7/16ths to accommodate the larger wire. I know the engine bay is dirty. Blowing the leaves around cleaning up and made myself more work..lol

 

Clean install. Nice work.

 

Thanks, I'll post pics when I get the additional blue 1/0 with the fuse and better sweep into the battery. I still need to run the main power into the bed and the new ground for the power cells and amps. I need to get a couple of bushings that fit nice around the cable. I also need to run the bass **** cable and rca's to the other sub amp inside the cab. I will have 2 sub controllers up front so that I can use the ones in the bed when I want and leave them off for the most part. I was thinking.. It would be funny if a ars clown in a ricer thumping rolls up and I hit the power cover up about 3 inches and turn on another 3000 rms out the back...LMAO Should make for some funny faces seeing a guy old enough to be their dad out slam their *****..rotflmao!!

 

Here's a few more pics of whats going on. More to come of course. Gotta have eye candy though..lol

















Birth Sheets on these is 1545 and 1523 RMS @ 1 OHM

 

Forgot to post up these. They should handle things nicely. They are Stingers/ Sound Quest

 

Damn /\ I'm not worthy!

I thought I was doing okay today when I took all of my interior door panels off so that could strategically place pads on the perimeter of each panel, just hoping this will work to reduce the vibration noise of the plastic.

Clint

 

All of the doors inner and outer skins and roof are covered in 50mil GT Mat. Its alot cheaper then dynamat and works just as good. I have a crap load of new pics I haven't put on here yet. I've been busting my *** to get it to a point cause of rain.

 

 

I also finished up the power distribution up front. All cables installed are custom made with gel seal heat shrink so that nothing can oxidize or corrode and are 1/0 including the charge cable from the alternator. With the battery so close to the firewall I had to improvise a bit but It should work. The fuse blocks are mounted with industrial grade velco in the event that there is a problem with the battery I can just pull them off and replace it when necessary and put them back. The fuse closest to the engine is a 350 amp ANL fuse to protect the charging system and the fuse closest to the fender is a 250 amp ANL fuse to the Amps inside the cab. When I get time and good weather the tonneau cover will slide back so I can install the power cells and just before the first power cell there will be another 350 Amp ANL fuse to protect the power cells. The Fuses are a must in the event that a cable shorts out you don't burn your vehicle down. When a battery cable shorts it will try to discharge it's power in it's entirety. Between the the power cells and the main battery would be 1000's of amps so you can see how a car fire could happen. Alot of people that install there own stereo's think they can get away without them. They really don't cost that much and if something was to happen they will regret not getting them. Most ANL fuse holders are gauge specific and come with a fuse of your choice. They need to be no more then 18 inches from the battery. They are all over ebay for 15.00 or less. And always remember what ever the size of your power cable the ground must match.

 

A little more progress today. I still need to move my tonneau cover out of the way to install and hook up my power cells. Starting to look like it's gonna be something cool. In previous pic the fans looked blurry, they are stinger side draft fans. I know I've had alot of views, It would be nice to get some feedback for the watchers.

 

Very nice work!

 

Thank you!! Whats crazy is, I've had a crap load of views and can't get but one feed back. I am hoping to get some more stuff done tomorrow and I will take and post more pic's. I had to put things on hold for the holiday.

 

I got the power cells installed and the 350 amp ANL fuse to protect them. I had to move the tonneau cover out of the way to be able to install the cells. I also finished up the remote turn on circuit. I now need to fabricate the center console for dual bass *****. I had one already but now need a second to control the back amps. I also need to finish up the ignition turn on for the 500 amp relay.

 

Two thoughts on that:
1) if you were doing something wrong you know someone would tell you.
2) you're so far out of everyone else's league they have no idea what to say.

Either way, you're killin it!

Clint