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Thank you for the compliment, I appreciate it. Doing all this makes me want to spark up a side gig building this at home for people that can't afford the ridiculous prices at the shops. At one place I went to for over priced power cells ( I ended up getting them from Ebay with 2 year warranty for 1/2 the price), the owner was talking to a guy that had his motorcycle in there. He has spent over 4,000 and they were not done. The bike had been there for 3 weeks. The excuse was, Theres not a lot of room and we have to fabricate stuff. That price was just the labor. News flash... Your ripping him off. That kind of crap ticks me off.
I got the 500 amp ignition relay fired up and I got the dual bass **** done in the console. I'm not sure if I'm happy with it but I will get pics up of it soon. Once that's in I can stick the rockford fosgate disc in and set my input gains from the deck for 0 distortion and 0 clipping. The Rockford amps I have have whats called a c.l.e.a.n. circuit and lights to tell you when there to much gain and clipping and distortion is present. Distortion is the number one killer of speakers and clipping throws the amps into thermal protect mode. I tested the charging circuit to the rear power cells. I got 14.8 volts and 157.6 amps at idle. That should work for what I have. Worst case scenario I have to get a second alternator and fab up some custom brackets. Worst part of that is figuring out the belt size.
Last edited by 01 gt f150; 11-30-2016 at 10:42 PM.
@01 gt f150 - Off Topic question; I have an amp that no longer responds to turn on/off by the trigger wire, any suggestions on a relay that would handle the same task? Amp is running on a 50 amp circuit breaker.
Today I basically finished up. Everything is in and working perfectly. I used the C.L.E.A.N. disc set up. Out of 35 max volume I have zero distortion all the way up to 33. On the sub amps I used 40hz track and dialed in my output gain to blue LED which means 0% THD. I re-did my other amps. One is the same as the 2 new amps P1000x1bd and one is a P600x4bd. Birthsheets on the P1000x1bd's range from 1521 watts RMS @ 1ohm to 1545 watts I believe. The P600x4bd is rated between 208 and 211 watts @2 ohms RMS X 4 channels. I did a couple of burps at volume 12 and my wife came out and said she could feel it in the house while she was watching T.V...LOL The RCA's for the rear P1000x1bd's jumps from the P1000x1bd inside the truck. The Sub amp inside the truck has it's own PLC-2 +18 db bass **** and the two in the bed have their own PLC-2. The rear amps also have a toggle to turn them off and on so they don't play all the time, Just when it's time to show off a bit..lol. All amps are Rockford Fosgate Punch series. I thought about going to the power series but the punch series is more cost effective.
The funniest crap was pulling up to a youngster with his fart can import with a grocery cart handle wing and a mediocre stereo and shaking his car at 1/2 volume. The look on his face was priceless...ROTFLMAO. Good times!!
Last edited by 01 gt f150; 12-02-2016 at 08:18 PM.
put a 12 volt toggle switch to trigger the turn on. turn it off when your done listening. The toggle switch should be cheap. Get a lighted one to remind you to turn it off. I don't know what kind of amp you have but they can get pricey to repair.
But that's my issue, the amp stays on even when the trigger wire is not live. I was wondering if you're aware of a relay that I can use to interrupt the main amp power?
you could use a install bay Isolator relay and put the amp power inline on the relay so when a ignition hot hits the trigger it will turn on the amp. You could also use a toggle switch to trigger the relay so it's not on when your not listening to music. Depending on the amps fuse rating, You could go with a higher amp relay because the amp should be fused. something like this would work....
you could use a install bay Isolator relay and put the amp power inline on the relay so when a ignition hot hits the trigger it will turn on the amp. You could also use a toggle switch to trigger the relay so it's not on when your not listening to music. Depending on the amps fuse rating, You could go with a higher amp relay because the amp should be fused. something like this would work....
So I got a wild hair up my ars and decided to upgrade a bit. I installed Polk DB series and removed the DXI's. The Polk DB series is probably the best series ever put out by them. There is a noticeable difference in over all sound and my mid's and high's amp no longer clips. That leads me to believe that the DB series is much more accurate in their ohm ratings. I can't comment on the momo series as I have never owned them. After installing them I decided that the silver grills stood out to much and I will be painting them Gun metal grey metallic. Here's some pic's of the them installed before painting them.
Last edited by 01 gt f150; 02-15-2017 at 07:25 PM.
So I got the kick panels and rear pod done today. It's been raining like hell here so I'm gonna stop for now. The front door grills had issues and the primer crinkled all to hell and I don't feel like sanding for hours. I have a new set coming and they only set me back 8 bucks. I will work on those as soon as I get them.
Finally got time to get the new grills for the front doors done. I'm diggin it.
It's hard to tell in the pic's but it looks close to the dark graphite in the truck. It looks much better then the original silver they came in. I found an article that gave the 7 best 6.5's speakers and gave full pro's and cons. I'm glad that these were on that list. They sound great. Each speaker is getting close to 100 watts RMS and they handle it with ease. The crossover is set to 80hz on the deck and on the amp while the 12's and 15's are at 100hz for a smooth rollover. I need to doulble check the 2 p1000x1bd's in the back for their track setting's. I think I'm gonna push them all the way to 15 db bump to get everything I can possibly get out of them. The 15's can handle it and the amps have dual side draft fans to control any heat but so far the heat is very minimal and not a concern at this point. Car shows are coming up. I need to get the new seal on the tonneau cover and get it carpeted and the outer part painted. I have 4 invites already. It's an honor considering it's 98% classic cars around here.
Just a little mod today. Since I have the larger air scoop in my valance and a modified lower air deflector I have noticed that when I get a little froggie on the freeway when I get home I can pop the hood and the radiator upper air deflector is pushed up a bit. The factory buttons don't seen to hold it down very good. So I ordered
6 x 15 mm blind nuts and some fancy looking stainless hardware with anodized blue washers to remedy the situation and it looks pretty cool too. I added a extra mounting location by each head light for aesthetics. The flex a lite fan shroud and fenders are all the same size hardware so I got a little lucky on that one.
Last edited by 01 gt f150; 03-30-2017 at 08:05 PM.
11-30-2016, 10:28 PM
