So you want to lower your 04-08 F-150
#46
#47
I hate to sound dumb if this does or if this has already been answered. I have a 4x4 and doing a lot of picture comparing to 2wd models I guess. Am I correct saying the front of a 4x4 models start at 1" higher than a 2wd model and the rear is nearly 2" taller than 2wd due to the stock lifting blocks? If this is correct going to a djm axle flip would actually be a 6" drop and not 4" right? Also a 2/4 2wd drop would b the same as a 3/6 drop on a 4x4 right?
#48
I hate to sound dumb if this does or if this has already been answered. I have a 4x4 and doing a lot of picture comparing to 2wd models I guess. Am I correct saying the front of a 4x4 models start at 1" higher than a 2wd model and the rear is nearly 2" taller than 2wd due to the stock lifting blocks? If this is correct going to a djm axle flip would actually be a 6" drop and not 4" right?
Depends.
If you keep the 4x4 struts it will be 1" higher than what a 2wd would be, but it will drop it the advertised amount from where you are at. So a 2" drop control arm will lower you 2" but you will sit 1" higher than a 2wd with a 2" drop.
But if you swap the struts to a 2wd strut or get the Belltech struts it will sit like a 2wd and the amount you lower it will be the same as a 2wd.
The rear, yes it has a block that lifts it 2" from the 2wd height. So a 4" flip kit will lower it 6"
#49
#50
Yes. Can't do spindles. Coils, control arms, and struts will do what you want. Lower than 3" puts a lot of stress on the driveshafts.
#51
Good Day all!
New F150 FX4 (2006) owner here, and new to forum. Kudos to all for the info in this thread!
I measured the tire to fender gap on my truck and it is 7"-8" on all corners. I was hoping to get the front down to about a 2" gap with the back @ 3" to 4" (I like the rake). Please give some direction as to best how to get there (if do-able). The back doesn't seem that difficult, but i am struggling with how to get there in the front. My truck is running on 275/55/R20's currently and I don't have any current plans to change this.
Your assistance/comments are greatly appreciated!
New F150 FX4 (2006) owner here, and new to forum. Kudos to all for the info in this thread!
I measured the tire to fender gap on my truck and it is 7"-8" on all corners. I was hoping to get the front down to about a 2" gap with the back @ 3" to 4" (I like the rake). Please give some direction as to best how to get there (if do-able). The back doesn't seem that difficult, but i am struggling with how to get there in the front. My truck is running on 275/55/R20's currently and I don't have any current plans to change this.
Your assistance/comments are greatly appreciated!
#52
Good Day all!
New F150 FX4 (2006) owner here, and new to forum. Kudos to all for the info in this thread!
I measured the tire to fender gap on my truck and it is 7"-8" on all corners. I was hoping to get the front down to about a 2" gap with the back @ 3" to 4" (I like the rake). Please give some direction as to best how to get there (if do-able). The back doesn't seem that difficult, but i am struggling with how to get there in the front. My truck is running on 275/55/R20's currently and I don't have any current plans to change this.
Your assistance/comments are greatly appreciated!
New F150 FX4 (2006) owner here, and new to forum. Kudos to all for the info in this thread!
I measured the tire to fender gap on my truck and it is 7"-8" on all corners. I was hoping to get the front down to about a 2" gap with the back @ 3" to 4" (I like the rake). Please give some direction as to best how to get there (if do-able). The back doesn't seem that difficult, but i am struggling with how to get there in the front. My truck is running on 275/55/R20's currently and I don't have any current plans to change this.
Your assistance/comments are greatly appreciated!
to get 2" gap in the front you will need to go 4 or 5 in the front, doubt that will work with the front drive shafts. I had mine at 3" and they were tweaked about as far as id want to go.
if you do 3" struts in front and 2" shackles in the rear, then remove the 2" blocks that will have it looking like mine did. there are more pictures in my albums too.
#53
I had my 08 lowered 3" in the front with coil springs, if I had it to do over again I would have used beltech struts or control arms. the coils rode too hard, but did keep my tires, 305 40 23, from rubbing. if you stick with the stock wheels you should be fine as far as clearance goes.
to get 2" gap in the front you will need to go 4 or 5 in the front, doubt that will work with the front drive shafts. I had mine at 3" and they were tweaked about as far as id want to go.
if you do 3" struts in front and 2" shackles in the rear, then remove the 2" blocks that will have it looking like mine did. there are more pictures in my albums too.
to get 2" gap in the front you will need to go 4 or 5 in the front, doubt that will work with the front drive shafts. I had mine at 3" and they were tweaked about as far as id want to go.
if you do 3" struts in front and 2" shackles in the rear, then remove the 2" blocks that will have it looking like mine did. there are more pictures in my albums too.
#54
#55
I have a pinion angle question. Right now I'm at 2-2 using Belltech drop struts and a 2" GF shackle. If I eventually go 2" drop spindles and 1" drop setting on the shocks and do a 3" Belltech rear leaf with my GF shackles, how do I fix my pinion angle? I have a 2 peice drive shaft and plan on replacing it (sealed U joints) before I drop the truck more.
#58
Really depends on how far off the leaf springs will make it. Hopefully you don't but I don't have experience with leafs and shackles to know how much of a shim you would need. My Eibach leafs I had with my DJM adjustable pinion angle flip kit.
#59
Gotcha. I know the 2 piece shaft can be a pain so some use a carrier bearing relocation kit. The other thing I have thought of it a 2" shackle drop usually requires the shims. I did 2 front and back and still used the shim. (not sure if that was bad or not). Thinking along the lines of the shackle, the front would be a 0" of drop and rear would be 2". Add 3" to both, and the ratio stays the same. There's your 3-5" drop. In terms of levelness, the truck is theory would be the same as a shackle only drop, but with 3" added all around on top of that.
Last edited by TruckGuy24; 04-25-2014 at 10:42 AM.
#60
The front drop has nothing to do with pinion angle. The pinion angle is determined from the attachment point of the shaft (trans for 1 piece, carrier bearing for 2 piece) and the amount of drop.
Now that I think about it a little more, you might not need to change from the shims you have. Really the shims are used with shackles because the shackle is longer, which changes the angle of the leaf and in turn the axle. Drop leafs shouldn't change the angle, just less arch in the spring, and hold the axle at the same angle. You may even need to remove the shim because at 5" you will be getting close to having a straight u joint which is not good.
If it were me I would just do the leafs and it shouldn't be so far off that anything would be damaged from everyday driving. Odds are it would be fine with what you have, but if not just no hard launches until you get different shims.
Now that I think about it a little more, you might not need to change from the shims you have. Really the shims are used with shackles because the shackle is longer, which changes the angle of the leaf and in turn the axle. Drop leafs shouldn't change the angle, just less arch in the spring, and hold the axle at the same angle. You may even need to remove the shim because at 5" you will be getting close to having a straight u joint which is not good.
If it were me I would just do the leafs and it shouldn't be so far off that anything would be damaged from everyday driving. Odds are it would be fine with what you have, but if not just no hard launches until you get different shims.