WHO HAS BEEN SHAVED??? Truck i mean

[Kryptonite.]

Im looking to shave my truck and i got a quote 350 a door with no paint. Good deal?
also what is the best brand for the kit?
have you had any problems so far?



thanks
Chris

[Arca_ex]

Originally Posted by Kryptonite.

Im looking to shave my truck and i got a quote 350 a door with no paint. Good deal?
also what is the best brand for the kit?
have you had any problems so far?



thanks
Chris

I'm not actually sure, I was looking into this also but was a little afraid of what it might cost.

Are you going to remove all the emblems also? This was my biggest concern about going for that completely clean look.

[Dribone]

I actually just did mine. The mechanism is easier to run than I thought, but matching the body contour is another animal. Find out if they’ll integrate you power locks with the brain for the solenoids so you won’t have 2 different key fobs. For the amount of work, 350 seems like a fair price, maybe a bit high, but I’d say anywhere in the 300-350 range is right.

[1fast4.6]

So correct me if im wrong.. its 350 a door for removing the handle, welding in a patch pannel, and grinding/sanding it down.

if thats the case, yeah its about right. I installed the the door "popper" kit my self wich wasnt too hard since i wired it up to the factory locks.

I would suggest shaving everything you might wanna do while your at it.

[Dribone]

how'd you wire it to your factory locks, and be able to open one door at a time? or did you use the 'lock' button for the driver door and 'unlock' for passenger door? or something similar.

the only issue i would think with that would be is don't you have to have a pretty heavy gauge wire running to the actual popper?

come to think of it, i really like that idea.

[1fast4.6]

Accually i wired it into the unlock side of the lock mechanism. 1 touch driver door 2 touch both door's. Yes a big problem with that was the stock wiring. Accually the wiring wasnt too much of a problem, but the stock fuse was. The stock fuse was alright for operation of just one silenoid at a time. But, use of both at the same time would blow the fuse. So, what does everyone do? put in a bigger fuse walla fixed.

Also another problem was the lock mechanisim inside the door. say if you got out of your truck and accidently locked it with the remote or the manual push down on the door lock by the window and shut the door. When you went to open your door with the silenoid the lock would win. And it would be time to break some glass.

I opend up my keypad for the remote lock and perminatly disabled it so i wouldnt accidently lock the doors by habbit. And since there is no door handle its completley usless anyways. Second i went back inside the door and made sure that i couldnt lock it manually. So basically i have no locks.

Installed a couple springs to kick the doors open and it works like a charm.

Most people would frown upon just using a bigger fuse. but since the silenoid activates and stop so quick. it would take alot more than that to "burn down" the electical wires.

The best part is. I didnt have to run any wires at all!

[CaliStyle]

Sounds complicated.

I just had my poppers (for all 4 doors) tied to the aux channels on my Clifford alarm remote; 1 for each door.

...an emergency (hidden) pull is s good idea for locked doors, but I also disabled the auto-arm on my alarm so that does not happen. I have the window roll-up feature enabled on my alarm.

Price wise, I had mine done a few years back and I think that is within the ballpark.

I had everything shaved (antenna, door handles, emblems) for the exception of the tailgate emblem; and I axed the door moldings.

Originally Posted by 1fast4.6

Nice truck, BTW.

[crash_lucky13]

my ass is shaved...been looking at doing my doors, gas tank, antenna, and windshield wiper nozzles

[Dribone]

i wired em up tonight. i got rid of the lock feature altogether and just isolated the unlock button to the passenger side, and lock to the drivers side. i picked opposing wires that go the the actual lock, so when the button is depressed, power is going to the solenoid. i cut the wires to the lock switches, so theres no accidental locking, and to make sure the motion sensor that locks the doors once the truck rolls doesn't activate.

[1fast4.6]

In hindsight your way would have probably been the best way Dribone. And thanks Calistyle. Yours is pretty hot. I need to bag mine pretty bad.