I own a 2015 f150 Xlt super crew and currently have two 10" JL Audio subs under my back seat. However I am looking for ideas on getting two more 10" subs. Can I get ideas on how I could set all this up in my truck? Also, would it be better to run four 10" subs with two 1000 watt amps (500rms each) or just one 1000 watt amp (250rms each). The guy at the store told me one amp would be better than two and I kinda feel like he didn't know what he was talking about. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I didn't know about having more power hah. Lastly any ideas on the hertz high energy speakers for the doors?

 

Replace the 10's with 12's. There are multiple ways to install them in your truck. One good Rockford Fosgate p1000x1bd would push the hell out of 2 x 12's. Kicker compr's would be a good choice on subs.

 

He said 4 10"s would be much better than 3 12"s cuz it has more cone space in use. I would rather stick with the 10"s so my money doesn't go to waste from the 2 I already have. And they claim JL Audio is high quality... I personally am an alpine guy but if JL Audio has better quality I'm all for it.

 

Are all of these going under the back seats or are you removing the seats?

I'm trying to wrap my head around an image of 4 10s fitting in a box(es) that would fit under the seat.

 

I'm going to have my back seat raised up enough to fit them and then have them facing outward toward the driver and passenger all lined up next to each other. Or I can have the seat raised and put three under there and then have the fourth one in front of the middle seat in the back. I not know if that makes sense haha. I'm open to ideas as well! I want to look at every aspect before I drop more money on this system.

 

i am wondering if I should upgrade my alternator, truck battery, and/or install a capacitor for my system. I am running 3 amps for my hertz high energy speakers and 4 12" subs. What brands or sizes should I consider getting to help run this system? Please provide links to show products.

 

which 10" JL subs will you be running?

just remember to make sure you have the proper air space for all those woofers in you enclosure(s).

don't make the mistake many make of dropping good subs in any size box and expecting good bass to result.

if you're going to run the JL W3v3 10s in sealed enclosures, they're gonna need a total of close to 3 cubic feet of air space to make them sound right.

too little air space and their gonna sound like crap!

 

The box isn't the issue I'll be doing a custom box from the front to the rear of the truck along the middle isle and under the back seat. There will be plenty of space!!! And I'm thinking about doing alpine swr-t12, Orion hcca124 12", or JL 12tw3-d4 (shallow).

 

What series of JL 10's do you have? If they are 250 watt rms then adding 2 more will only be a disappointment if you are craving hard hitting deep bass.
12's will hit lower and have a Higher SPL. 10's facing the front would be cool if you only plan on having small children in the back seat and even then their car seats wouldn't fit. To be effective 3 down firing 12's that require a cubic foot might work. Mounting depth and air space should be your number 1 deciding factors. Bragging about 4 x 10's that sound like *** is cool to those who will believe it. Think real hard about sound quality, SPL and cost effectiveness. Just because you cram 4 x 10's under the seat doesn't mean it will sound good. A 10 inch woofers cone area is alot less than a 12, by almost 35 cubic inches. It would take more then 4 x 10's to equal 3 x 12's plus the 12's inevitably will hit harder and deeper than a 10. 3 x 2 ohm 12's and a 1 ohm stable amp will destroy 4 x 10's any day and you would only need roughly 3 cubic feet to do it and you would save on space. I have no idea how long you have been doing stereo install but my guess is not long. I've been doing it since 8's were the largest car sub you could get. 10's and 12's effectively use the same amount of air space so why cut yourself short??? I have installed many upgrades to 12's from 10's because they are lacking in the SPL and HZ dept. Just trying to help the OP, Money doesn't grow on trees so blowing it sucks. If your going to upgrade then do it once rather then multiple times and don't live in regret wasting money along the way.

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/bo...of-a-subwoofer

 

As I said im trying to get 4 12" subs and I will do anything to ensure the box is big enough. I'm willing to put spacers to lift my rear seat 3-4" and take out both the front and rear middle seats so the box and space won't be an issue. I currently have 2 10tw3-d4's running about 300rms each I just don't really know which 12" subs to get. I want 500rms per 12" sub, prefer shallow mounts but I can get a big enough box for the deep mounts. I just bought the hertz high energy 6x9, 6 1/2, and 3 tweeters with a JL 6 channel amp. I just need some ideas on which 12" subs to get and what amps to run with them and different ways I can possibly fit them in my truck with the least amount of space used.

 

Everyone here probably has a different view on which amps to run. I've been using and installing car audio since 84. I have my personal favorite which happens to be Rockford Fosgate punch or power series. They are under rated which means a 1000 watt amp is really closer to 1500 at 1 ohm. They are in some of the most insane installs IE Steve Meade Designs on you tube. Alot of the amps these days are made in china and buyer beware. Not to knock anyone but I doubt to many people have more experience then myself. There are several other brands that are excellent IE Sundown, Arc, DD, Crescendo and so on. Budget will control what you can get but never skimp on a install because it wouldn't of be the first vehicle to burn due to being chinsy. There are amps out there that claim 5k and are no where near that rated power but the sticker on says it is. Look up amp test tuesday or Steve Meade Designs on you tube. They show you what amps actually put out and not what a cute sticker says. RMS output at what ohms? because that will have everything to do with how you set it up. How much CU FT you have to work with and the displacement of the woofer too. I like to pick the power level I want and then order the speakers that will take advantage of that rating and the space I have to install it. Do you have enough power to run what you want to install? What power wire sizes and fuses to keep you from burning you truck to the ground. Additional power cells and relays to charge them. There is more then one way to skin a cat but think it through before you buy anything. Pull out the seats you want out then use cardboard to fabricate a rough idea on the box size. Figure out resonant HZ that has everything to do with a ported box. Daily drivers generally use larger boxes then a SPL beast at a competition. Two total different animals all together. Competition vehicle burp sound and aren't real worried about sound Q. Figure out what CU FT you have and go from there. Anyone with a circular saw can build a box but will it handle the SPL with out deflection and is it ported correctly or sealed correctly. Sealed boxes take more power to acquire the same volume and SPL of a ported box. If you want 4 x 12's why not 2 x 15's ? 6 to 7 CU FT ported will rattle your teeth and most people around you too..lol