Could use some tips or advice on my new install.



Just ordered some parts and have two amps from a while back.

The Two amps I have are,

EXILE X1200.1 and
EXILE 600.4

I ordered,

- Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker (Pair)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System (Pair) + tweeters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-VM Audio kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351055207855?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
-Mounting adapter and wire adapter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271332641279?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
-Alpine Type R 8" Subwoofer + Enclosure
http://www.visions.ca/Catalogue/Cate...290&sku=SBRS84

planning to use the existing stock HU, but if you guys could recommend one with NAVI, looked at the meta conversions and the seicane deck with whole console swap.
seicane good??? and recommendations.

Also whats the best way to wire this all up,

the amp is a bit overkill for my sub, will it be okay? should i add another type R 8"? sound better?

How could I wire up so that two subs where different channel on the mono amp.. if i got two subs..


hopefully all my parts are shipped and arrive within 2-3 weeks.

 

should i get a capacitor.. also plan to hook up 1000W inverter.. if anyone has advice,

should i run seperate wires to the battery. or just use a splitter in the cab.. to the inverter and 2amps

 

Return that wiring kit, it's cheap and not nearly enough for what you need for your amps.

A single quality 4 gauge kit would be enough for one of those amps by itself but not both. The one you purchased is enough for half of one of those amps. If you're on a budget, check out KnuKonceptz. They have some of the most affordable wiring kits that are still quality CCA and OFC. You'll need to do a 1/0 gauge main run from the battery to a fused distribution block that splits into two 4 gauge outputs to each amp and has an a separate fuse for each amp as well. The main fuse at the battery will need to be the sum of the two fuses on the distro block and each one of those fuses will need to match the sum of the fuses on the amp that wire is going to.

Wiring, if you go with a stock headunit you'll need something like a LC7i line out converter to go from speaker level outputs on the headunit to rca inputs for the amps.

Your amp matches well for the sub, the specs I could find say it does 400rms at 4ohms and the sub you linked to is wired to a 4ohm final load with a rms rating of around 300. This means you can keep the gains back on the amp to let it run cooler.

If you got two subs, both with a 4ohm final load at the sub, you can wire them so that the amp sees a final load of 2ohm and still on one channel.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YtNiVZ6...rs_wiring.html

I also noticed you didn't mention what speaker wire you went with, you'll want to go no smaller than 16 gauge and 14 gauge would be my choice.

Do not run a capacitor, unless you just think they look cool. Instead, do the big 3. It'll give you much better results than using a capacitor for something it's not intended for.

As for the inverter, how many amps does it draw? I'd suggest doing a seperate run, but if the amperage is low you may be able to do it off the main amp run.

 

Hey thanks pizzaman!
yah have not decided on the speaker wire, but i will run 14 guage or 12 guage.

I didnt know i would need that LC7i Loc, someone told me I dont need it and the amps can do that job? but he is a mickey mouse dude. LC7i is like 200bucks almost... I mine aswell buy a after market double din deck,

has anyone tried seicane?
http://www.seicane.com/head-unit-car...-zone-pop-c267

A store recommended the ALPINE perfect fit
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/x009-fd2 , I'm not gonna spend 4000$ bucks on that though, trying to stay on budget..

I need a deck that has Navi, and video/hdmi, input.
I wanna have a android mini pc box as a source, like a "minix" so i can run google apps etc. web browser..

for the inverter, I might have a printer ... laptop maybe, power tool battery chargers

 

would it be okay if I insstalled a tablet for a HU, custom fit. and just 3.5mm jack to rca cable. how would i wire that up to the amps, and would the quality be jujst as good

 

 

btw, gonna order some stuff from knukonceptz
1/0 guage, but doesnt look like they have a divider?
1/0 guage to x3 4guage?

 

pretty good pricecs, but they dont ship to canada so ill have to go pick it up :s

 

There is amps that can covert speaker level to rca on the amp, but yours can't and you pay a premium for that feature anyways. There is a lot cheaper line out coverters compared to the LC7i, but the LC7i also acts to restore the bass that the factory headunit cuts out.

I've never heard of Seicane before, but if you want an Android based radio there is the Parrot Asteroid radio. Supposed to be one of the best android based ones.

For an invertor to run power tools, I'd suggest doing a separate power wire run.

You could run a tablet as a head unit, there's a couple people on this forum who have run iPad's for them. There's a few problems with using the 3.5mm audio as the out though. You'd still need a line out convertor, but you could pick up a cheap one as the tablet isn't going to be cutting out any portions of the sound like the factory radio, especially if your tablet has an eq on it that allows you to adjust it. The other problem is you'll loose your rear channel. The 3.5mm out only gives you two channel output so the rear speakers will be reproducing the same sounds the front speakers are playing. Not a huge deal, but just something to consider.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...ibution-block/

1x1/0 gauge to 2x4 gauge

There's a forum called car audio classifieds I'd check out as well. Generally you can pick up peoples leftover wire from their builds pretty cheap and most people are willing to ship to canada as long as you don't mind covering the extra shipping costs.

 

cool thanks pizza. gonna do some research on what deck to get.. the double din from metra doesnt seem to fit my truck.

my f150 has the 4.2 display right now

 

so i gathered all my parts

I ended up buying a Stinger 4guage kit,

and i also have the cheapo 4guage kit, which ill use for my 1500watt inverter

now, I just also bought a 8guage stinger kit for my 4 channel amp.
exile 600.4


should i run all 3 of these.
or do i only need the 4guage stinger for both my amps..
im only using a type R 8inch sub.




another question, Im having a hard time installing /replacing the oem speaker wire. from the passenger front door . was trying to fish it through the rubber, but i realized thats a plug! am i gonna have to drill through the body?
im thinking of just using the crappy stock wires... is that okay? or really bad.
i have some really good 12guage home audio wire i wanna use.
but i went to VISIONS, they sold me 16guage.. i wanted 14 guage but they didnt have it. and the wire i got which is 16guage.. doesnt look like copper. 80cents a foot.

also wondering how i should wire my tweeter.. right now if i dont replace the speaker wires. i might run the tweeter wires back to the HU , where my LOC is. does it matter if the tweeter plugs in the front woofer. or can it be spliced anywhere in the line, between amp and woofer.


thanks in advance.!

 

For future reference, buying complete pre-packaged wiring kits isn't always the most efficient, cost effective way to get things done if you want quality products. I use a web site called Darvex.com to get all of my install items; wires, heat shrink, fuse and distribution blocks, etc... They have outstanding prices on most install items, shipping is usually free and they're FAST to deliver. I've used quite a bit of their products and have never been disappointed.

As for your questions, I'd suggest using the 4 guage wire from the battery to a distribution block mounted near your amps. Then you can run a 4 gauge from there to the sub amp and either a 4 or 8 to the 4 channel amp. That way you don't have to run 2 full power leads, the 4 gauge cable will carry plenty of juice to the distribution block to feed your amps.

As for running the speaker wire into the door, DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN THE BODY! You don't need 12 gauge speaker wire to feed the mids, just get a good quality 16 gauge wire and then find spot on the MOLEX connector that doesn't have any terminals. It'll be basically just a blocked off area with no wires leading to it or from it on the door side. You can then CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the MOLEX connector and feed the speaker wire through that into the rubber conduate that leads into the doors. Drilling through the body is never a good idea as it will not only create a possible future leak, it looks amateur, causes chafing issues on the wire and can also cause unwanted kinks/creases in the cable that will eventually result in broken or frayed speaker wires. You can google "Speaker wire through MOLEX" to find plenty of how to videos on drilling the MOLEX connector.

As for the tweeter, did your component set come with passive crossovers? If so, you will want to use them. You'll run one channel to each crossover and then the cross over will split the signal for the mid woofer and tweeters. Mount the crossovers up under the dash so that you can limit the amount of speaker wire you have to run to the front of the cab. You'll only have to run one set of speaker wires up from the amp to the front crossovers then run the woofer wires into the doors as stated above and the tweeter wires up to the A-pillars for the tweets. You technically can just splice into the factory tweeter wires (if your truck has them), but it's just as easy, probably easier, to just run new wire from the crossovers to the tweets. You don't want to run your mids off the amp, crossed over and then run the tweets off the head unit un-crossed.

 

Almost forgot! Don't forget to run a fuse under the hood inline with your main power feed, your 4 gauge cable. You want the fuse to no more than a few feet from the battery and certainly before your run into the cab. That way if the cable somehow splits or breaks somewhere where you can't see it (IE under the carpet) the fuse will save your butt. Get the spec sheets from your amps and add the draw from both amps to get the fuse value you need to feed both amps.
The distribution block that you use back at the amps, to split your 4 gauge feed cable, does not need a fuse as the one under the hood and then the one's in the amps should be sufficient.