**Thread updated on last page**

Hey everyone. Just finished my self-install of a full system upgrade in my 2010 FX4 SuperCrew. Before I go any further, I'd like to thank monoxide and pizzaman for their endless help. They were basically my on-call text tech/install support as I went through this endeavor. I also want to thank my wife for not divorcing me as I was non-existent for the better part of 4 days!

All that being said, what an endeavor this was. I had done a full install on my last truck, so I had some experience, but this install was a whole new animal. I had more knowledge and also took on a much more intensive install with sound deadening.

This thread will be pretty picture intensive (I apologize for the quality, they were taken with my phone and I really thought I had better pictures than those that will be reflected. Already took considerable extra time to photo document, much less with an additional camera out there). I'm not sure how many pics you'll be interested in, but I'd like to show my work that I'm proud of and hopefully help others as well.

First, here are my components I used:

Stock Headunit (with Sync, no Sony, no nav)
AudioControl LC7i
JL Audio XD700/5
Front Speakers - Polk Audio MM6501 components
Rear Speakers - Polk Audio MM571 coax
Sub - JL Audio 10w1v2-4 in a custom box under the 40 split



Wiring:

Metra BT-5520 wiring harness
Stinger Speedwire - 20ft
Add-a-fuse
KnuKonceptz 4ga power and ground wire for amp
KnuKonceptz 14ga speaker wire
KnuKonceptz RCA's (1 meter - I chose the Klarity series and they actually have a remote wire that serves as the spine of the two channels. Interesting design. I didn't utilize this wire and just cut them back so they would be out of the way)
14ga power and ground wire for LC7i
16ga remote wire for connection between add-a-fuse and speedwire and between LC7i and amp.
60amp inline fuse for amp power wire
2amp inline fuse for LC7i power wire
Endless miscellaneous purchases from Advance AutoParts, AutoZone, Walmart, Home Depot.

Sound Deadening:
MurderMat BL Series - 80 sq ft
RAAMaudio Ensulite - 3 pack

Ok, so here we go! I began the process by preparing the Metra BT-5520 wiring harness. Figured I could do this in the comfort of inside the house, so I'd take advantage. First thing I did was connect the two black connectors together. Since the wires between them just make a loop in this case, there's no need to remove them. I was running all new speaker wire, so I just spliced the Stinger Speedwire into the speaker outputs on the harness. They were all color-coded nicely:

White - Left Front
Grey - Right Front
Green - Left Rear
Purple - Right Rear

These colors were consistent with the speedwire so it was easy. I cut the Metra Wires on the longer side which is the side that plugs into the headunit. You could strip a small section and just splice the speedwire in. I wasn't that patient, so I clipped them and then soldered the three wires together with shrink wrap over the top.

While I was soldering, I also soldered the remote wire that I was going to run from the add-a-fuse to the speedwire (this would then be used to run to the rear of the truck to turn on the LC7i. Then using the remote out on the LC7i run to the JL amp)



Then I prepared the ends of my power and ground wires. For the 4 gauge wires, I know it wasn't necessary, but I had fun using the torch to solder the ring terminals on.





For the smaller 14 gauge wires for the LC7i, I just crimped on ring terminals and some heat shrink.



Then installed the inline fuse holders for both power wires.



Now that everything was prepped, it was time to go start digging into the truck.

I started removing the stock headunit panel. No simple task. Its a pretty snug fit. You have to pry the silver side panels away far enough to release the clips that hold the faceplate in place. This was my first time doing anything on this truck so I was a little nervous. But I got it loose.



Pulled it out and unplugged the harness on the back of the headunit. Inserted the metra harness here.



Better look at what all is connected to the harness. You can see the thicker blue wire (speedwire which has the 8 speaker wires going to the LC7i and the remote wire) and the thinner blue remote wire going to the add-a-fuse.



Then threaded those wires back into the dash, speedwire went to the driver side right behind the steering column and the remote wire went behind the glove box to the fuse box.

Put the headunit back and buttoned up the dash panel.





Here's a pic of the remote wire crimped to the add-a-fuse as well as the picture of the fuse box panel with the add-a-fuse. Some modification needs to be made to both the main fuse box housing and the cover for the add-a-fuse to fit. In my 2010, the fuse slot is 41.





Funny thing with the add-a-fuse...it helps to add a freaking fuse! I initially installed it with just the stock fuse on the wire side. Brain fart. That one is supposed to go on the bottom slot and a new 10A fuse on the wired side. The initial side effect of that slip up was my compass stopped working.

Here's where I ran the speedwire in the driver side door sills. I ran it through the stock wire channels. That tape that covers it makes it challenging. I ended up having to cut the tape to gain access through the B-pillar. It was a jumbled mess of wires at that junction.



I brought that speedwire up through the base of the c-pillar and it was ready for the back wall.

That pretty well concluded my first day of work.

Next day, a bit out of order, but I received my custom sub box. I was very particular here that it had to fit under the 40 split in my rear seat. I have a child and thats her seat so it will always be down, so the floorspace under it is wasted anyway. I wasn't willing to give up the 60 side. Its too nice to have. Anyway, I wrestled with sub selections forever and debated between going shallow or traditional. Well I ended up going with the JL 10w1v2-4 as it had a relatively shallow mounting depth in traditional sub category. Also requires very little air space in a sealed box enclosure at 0.625 cu ft. So I went for it, knowing it was going to be close but also knowing it would be easier to ask for as a Christmas gift. The box builder I went with was Electronics 2000 here in San Antonio. All I can say is legit! 3/4" MDF (maybe overkill for this application), black automotive carpet to finish, and without any extra charge a fiberglassed back! $100. I was impressed. The problem was they were concerned with overall depth of the application. Theres that handle under the seat that causes clearance problems. So initially they designed it as an up fire so the cone could travel around the handle. Good idea in theory and maybe if I had gone with a 12 or larger sub, it would have worked. Here are the pics right when I received it.



Under the seat


Contact


You can see where the ring of the sub is hitting the seat


So my objective then became, remove the handle!

Outer ring removed


At this point there are 2 screws behind the handle. Remove those and it will come loose and only held in by the cable. This was tricky, the cable is like a puzzle.



You can see it disconnected here on the left. You first have to pinch the black section closest to the cable head, this will allow that part to slide through its housing (similar to bike brakes). Now the head of the cable is held into its slot. On this handle it was sealed up with some sort of hardened adhesive. I cut through that, then manipulated the head out of its slot. Once you see it, you'll understand it. Then the handle was out! At that point the fabric under the seat has a lot more play to it and you gain at least an inch of true clearance. I ended up putting strips of velcro inside to hold the fabric up. The best part of this, having the cable still there, you can still use the latch on this seat. It will lift up obviously and then when it catches like its supposed to, you can then release it. Beautiful.

After that, I got back on task and my next goal was to run my speaker wire. I did not have the molex connectors, so I was a happy camper. Here's the demo pics:

Back Wall. I found removing the seat very easy thanks to videos I'd seen. Here's a pic of the release. I was able to do it with just my hands. No tools needed. As others have said, you have to remove the headrest first. Also, for those of you who are wondering what the straps are for along the back, you clearly don't have young children! Haha. Those are the anchors for carseats once they become forward facing.

The bottom of the pic is the back of the seat and the top of the pic is the back wall. The release you press is on the bracket attached to the seat.

 

Front Passenger Door (Driver Side is a mirror image): Notice the large foam block in the middle that goes under the armrest. Also the moisture barrier.


Rear Passenger Door:


Completely stripped Driver Front:


Driver Rear:


I then made my speaker wire runs. I used 14ga and all of my speakers had crossovers I planned to mount in the door trim panels so I had 4 runs to make. My advice is to start on the speaker side and run it through the boots that way. They don't make the inside of the cab side all that accessible. Their is a lot of stuff under the kick panels and the b-pillars are just easier to leave alone and just pull the bottom away a little. I had no real difficulty here. I ran the speaker wire along both door sills to the back wall. Sorry no pics of this as its pretty straight forward.

Make sure you leave plenty of length on either end so you allow for some flex in the door opening and closing as well as just wiggle room for install.

The next step was to complete my wiring and run the power wires. I had 2 to make, 1 for the amp (4gauge) and 1 for the LC7i (14gauge). Some may have suggested using a distribution block to avoid making 2 runs, but with such a large difference in gauge and most distribution blocks only step down to 8 gauge, I decided I didn't want to jimmy anything and just ran 2 wires. It was still effectively only 1 run for me because I loomed it before making the run. I elected to run down the wheel well and tuck it under and along the cab. Then re-enter the truck through the grommet in the door sill at the back of the passenger rear door. Here are the pics.



coming down the wheel well and tucking under the truck (sorry, meant to flip this pic)


The run along this perfect lip to hold it and keep it protected from the road debris. I used Loctite double sided tape that is designed for outdoor use and has a strength of up to 100lbs. I made sure and cleaned that lip real well with alcohol to make sure I had a clean surface to adhere to.


Entering through the grommet (I drilled out the center)




Tucked up behind the c-pillar and there it is! The intersection between it and the speaker wire won't remain like that.


Next was time for the absolute most tedious part of this hole process. Sound deadening! I did a ton of research on this as well. Was tempted to go with SoundDeadenerShowdown based on reviews. Attempted to get quotes and lost contact with the guy. Monoxide had recommended MurderMat and I checked it out and it seemed like a high quality product (butyl). Their customer support is fantastic too. Being relatively new it seems like their price couldn't be beat. I ordered 80 sq ft for applying to all 4 doors and the rear wall. I also ordered 3 packs of the Ensulite from RAAMaudio to complete the process. The MurderMat is awesome! I went with the BL series as it is a little easier to manipulate. I decided to go for full coverage even though the 25% rule has been well-documented. I could carry 80sq ft of this stuff fairly easily so it can't be more than 60-80lbs youd potentially add to the truck. Just don't see that as a big deal. Anyway, here's the process. I started with the back wall.



I also opted to leave both vents uncovered. I know some had done other things, but I decided to leave well enough alone.

Then I proceeded to the outer skin of the rear passenger door (not sure why I started here, but I did)


Then the inner skin


The proceeded to the remaining doors. I'll spare extra photos and state the obvious that the driver side is a mirror image of the passenger side. Here's the front door finished.


Notice the gaping holes that remained in the door. I'll get to those later.

I then mounted my painted MDF amp boards to the back wall. I used Loctites equivalent of Liquid Nails but the heavy duty contractors grade. They're not going anywhere and they're also supported by the floor.


The next part was more fun. I made my speaker mounting plates out of black poly cutting boards from target and then mounted the speakers.

Front


Rear (these weren't necessary as they're just drop in, but I didn't like the way they sat and also wanted consistency)


Next was time to address the gaping holes. I started with the rear doors as they were simpler. I was proud of this stage. I used more poly cutting boards from Wal-mart. They must have thought I was crazy.


Then I went to work on the front doors. This was a more intricate scenario. I remounted the foam block to make my templates. What I also did as I realized with the new design the backside of the foam would be exposed, I decided to cut out the baffle from the stock moisture barrier and adhered it to the foam block.


Then I secured my hole covers. For the main hole this ended up being a 3 piece design. Then a small peanut one for the lower smaller hole.


I just used 1" self-tapping screws to secure them.

I then finished by applying a layer of deadener over those panels to completely seal the door panel.

Front


Rear


Then I finished off by applying the layer of Ensulite to each door panel and the back wall. I used the Peel and Stick variety. Super easy to work with. Fortunately I had saved the stock moisture barriers and used those as templates. And for the back wall, I used the stock foam panel as a template and then adhered the Ensulite to the backside of that. It sticks just fine to that cloth material on the back (sorry no pic).

Front


Rear

 

I also applied small portions of MurderMat to the backside of the trim panel for each door as well. Nothing really special here, just junctions between different pieces and larger flat panels. Not full coverage here. I also put a little strip around the stupid door lock peg hole. FYI here. I used my dremel and cut off the bottom 1/4" or so (the space below the threads). No need for this to be this long and makes it considerably easier to get the lock peg to line back up when reinstalling the panel.

Next step was installing the tweeter and the crossover. I chose the sail location. This required a 2" hole bit. Guess who is missing exactly that size from his kit? Yeah, this guy. So I went with a 1 3/4" bit and then went to work with the dremel. I was very pleased with the outcome.



I chose to install the crossover on the front door right next to the speaker grille. I was initially going to put it on the flat spot above it so I could see it through the door lock panel if I ever needed to get to it, but it was too wide. This new location was still perfect as I could see it through that same spot and access the sensitivity control.


Picture looking through the door lock control panel


On the rear doors, those coax's also have a crossover but with no sensitivity control. These were much smaller so I was able to mount them to the flat spot below the window control panel. (sorry no pic)

At this point I mounted my amp and LC7i, wired all my speakers up, made all connections (RCA's, remote wires, power and grounds (used the bolt the middle seatbelt is anchored to), speakers, inserted my fuses and did a quick test run. It was ugly looking but it was freaking cold out and 4am so I wanted to go to bed. Bingo, first try everything fired up perfectly! I was stoked.

So at this point, the final step was to tidy up wiring and button everything up. I had one hiccup with the rear driver door. Got the panel on and went to screw the bolt in behind the handle and it just spun. The sheet metal clip wasn't where it was supposed to be. Had to perform a little surgery to solve it but got it done. All the panels were quite snug and took some work to get them lined up, but it was worth it. The doors sound so solid.

Pics of the back wall tidied up (I know some won't be impressed as I don't have a beautiful amp board that completely hides all the wiring, but that wasn't important to me as long as it was well organized.)




With the rear panel reinstalled




You all know what the doors look like but here's the front


Rear


If not for the tweeter, you wouldn't suspect anything.

Sub re-installed. The only thing that wasn't done on my box because they actually had my sub was one of those box terminals that allow you to quickly disconnect the entire box if you want to remove it. So I decided to cut the wires and attach male/female connectors. I cut a slit in the rear carpet to run the sub speaker wire to the back wall hidden.









Cut I made in the floormat. I left the outer lip so it would look like it was supposed to be there and just help keep it in place.


Picture of the removed handle and the velcro holding the fabric up. You can also see the cable release there.


And that was it! I'm in the tuning phase now, but it sounds great. I'm in love with my music again. I don't know if people are fans or not, but don't be turned away at the deals you can find on the Polk MM speakers. They're amazing. So smooth and pure. Absolutely love them. The LC7i is nice too as you can level match your signal coming from it to your amp. Makes sure you have a maximized signal headed to your amp. I currently have my speaker channel gains turned all the way to 0 and just a 1/4 turn on the sub channel. I'm waiting to get it tuned properly with a DD-1 this Saturday. I have my settings for each channel at the following:

Front: HP Filter (1x) at 80Hz
Rear: HP Filter at 100Hz
Sub: LP Filter (24db) at 80Hz

Here's a pic of my amp controls so you can see. Any suggestions of what I should change?



Obviously the standard JL silver cover plate will go back on once all the tuning is done. I gotta say though it sounds phenomenal already so I can't imagine what it will sound like once everything is finalized. The only negative I have is with the amp being behind the 40 seat, I have to take the car seat out whenever I want to adjust! The road noise is greatly reduced. Actually made the comment that my exhaust sounds like its on someone else's vehicle. The sound is encompassing with the sound deadening. Sound like I'm in the music. Love it. Hope you like the writeup and think I did ok. Let me know if you have any questions or need clarity on anything. Looking forward to your comments! Thanks again Shawn (monoxide) and Paul (Pizzaman)

Edit: I forgot to mention, I have no signal white noise, no whine, and as some have experienced, turn on or off pop. All clean. I also chose to wire the LC7i with a remote wire instead of using its GTO technology. Just didnt want to rely on that. This requires opening the LC7i up and moving one of the jumpers.

 

Looks great man! Always happy to help!

 

great job man. glad i could help you. if i make it out to tx im stopping by to check out my text message install.

 

Thanks guys. Can't express the gratitude.

 

Your wire runs look pretty well done. Overall a very solid setup, nice job.

 

Thanks!

 

Great job on the install! I am getting ready to do a similar install in my 2012 & have a question. Sinde you are using the stock radio, what was the Metra harness used for?

 

Thanks! Excited to get to answer a question too! The metra harness is strictly used as an "extension cord" for the factory wiring. You just insert it between the stock wiring harness and the connector on the back of the headunit. This allows you to cut into wiring thats not part of the stock wiring harness. This way, you can, as I did, do some of the work outside of the vehicle. But most do it to preserve the integrity of the stock harness for future resale of the truck. You don't "need" the metra harness, just a nice preservation tool.

 

Do you have the metra model number?

 

It was in the original post, but it's the BT-5520. Hope that helps!

 

Thanks russ10screw

 

Nice job, looks like alot of thought and time went into that set up.

Keep the photographer's away from my stereo, haha.

 

No problem!

Haha. Yeah I know. Amazing how much better they looked on my phone!