JL Audio equipment
#1
JL Audio equipment
My old truck was broken in to and I had memphis subs and amp stolen out of it. My insurance company replaced them with 2 JL audio 10w3v2 subs and a 500.1v2 amp. I never put the stuff in to my old supercrew because I knew that I would be getting rid of it soon. Now I want to add this in to my newer supercrew. (2006) My question is are these version of the JL subs any good and will the amp push them and sound decent? What kind of air space will I need and should I lift the rear seat and go with a ported box? I really would prefer not to but will take suggestions. I know that the JL stuff is typically good but wanted to see about these subs and how well the subs will be matched with the amp.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
#2
My old truck was broken in to and I had memphis subs and amp stolen out of it. My insurance company replaced them with 2 JL audio 10w3v2 subs and a 500.1v2 amp. I never put the stuff in to my old supercrew because I knew that I would be getting rid of it soon. Now I want to add this in to my newer supercrew. (2006) My question is are these version of the JL subs any good and will the amp push them and sound decent? What kind of air space will I need and should I lift the rear seat and go with a ported box? I really would prefer not to but will take suggestions. I know that the JL stuff is typically good but wanted to see about these subs and how well the subs will be matched with the amp.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
#3
#5
#6
the fox box has the most air space out of the 10" under seat boxes, also has the most mounting depth to fit more subs. it is also finished nicely, looks factory..http://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductD...#37;2D210%2D04
#7
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#8
10w3v2 is a dual voice coil. here are wiring options..http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
#9
hmmm.. excuse my ignorance, but is that good?
Also, how do I decide the best way to wire it? I am probably going to take all the stuff to have it installed but want to buy the missing parts. Also any recommendations for a line out converter? Was thinking about the JL Clean Sweep until I saw the price. I also read that it isn't all that people say it is.
Also, how do I decide the best way to wire it? I am probably going to take all the stuff to have it installed but want to buy the missing parts. Also any recommendations for a line out converter? Was thinking about the JL Clean Sweep until I saw the price. I also read that it isn't all that people say it is.
#10
dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
Last edited by JJDH; 09-22-2009 at 09:23 PM.
#11
I have always gone with a aftermarket HU as well but now that I got broken in to, I decided to stay with the stock HU for appearance. I will just use a line out converter as eventually add another amp for mid/high speakers when I am ready to replace them.
Any thoughts one wiring the subs?
Any thoughts one wiring the subs?
#12
dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them.................... 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
#13
Had the JL W3V2 in a Sebring LXi back when they were new. Had them in a slot ported box with a 500.1. Subs were alright. 500.1 was killer, way better then the two MTXs I had before that. Overall, the JLs are great sounding subs and the amp never clipped once upon months and months of abuse.
#14
dual voice coils are mainly for more wiring options. that is fine, i dont know about the clean sweep. ive always went to aftermarket hu. as far as whats good, it really isnt that complicated, so one or the other may not matter. here is the best way for your rig to wire them.................... 2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms
just follow the diagram in the link above
CleanSweep is pretty sweet - great for high end cars where an aftermarket headunit is impossible and/or looks gaudy. For an F150, its a bit overkill, a decent aftermarket headunit would do just fine. And I believe the 500/1 doesn't care what impedence you presend it with under 4 ohms, it has a continuous output.
I could be wrong on that last part.
Last edited by OMF350; 09-29-2009 at 09:28 AM. Reason: spelling
#15
[QUOTE=KLRFORD;3904044]Had the JL W3V2 in a Sebring LXi back when they were new. Had them in a slot ported box with a 500.1. Subs were alright. 500.1 was killer, way better then the two MTXs I had before that. Overall, the JLs are great sounding subs and the amp never clipped once upon months and months of abuse.[/QUOTE]
That doesn't mean anything. Do you have an o-scope? It probably has if you've "abused" it for months and months.
That doesn't mean anything. Do you have an o-scope? It probably has if you've "abused" it for months and months.