Okay.. I've been lurking around and asking questions left and right on how to get a decent upgrade from my Audiophile system on my 2008 F150 FX4 Supercrew. I think I've researched just about everything I can thus far, and I think I'm just about ready to take the plunge. I want to keep the stock look, and don't want to give anyone an extra reason to bash in my window, so I'm gonna keep the stock Audiophile 6cd changer HU.
$ 70 - 2 Polk db571 (60w rms) - rear fill on HU
$155 - 2 Polk mmc6500 (125w rms) - front comp
$110 - Kicker zx250.2 (125w rms x 2 @ 2 ohm) - front amp
$220 - 2 10" Rockford Fosgate p3sd210 (300w rms) - underseat sub
$150 - Kenwood excelon kac-x10d (600w rms X 1 @ 2 ohm) - sub amp
$155 - supercrewsounds 2 10" underseat box (can't build my own)
$860 - subtotal
Now, despite all my newfound knowledge, I really don't think I'll be able to install this myself. If I were to take this to an audio shop here in town, how much would I expect to pay for the remaining parts/labor? Should I purchase the necessary wiring also or just let the audio shop supply? Am I missing anything or should I change something?
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2008 Blackout FX4 - 6" Procomp, 35" Toyo MT, 20" Procomp 7005 wheels, 4.56 Yukon gears, True-dual Magnaflow exhaust, AF1 3.0" intake, VMPtuning X3, and a lot of black spray paint.
-Exhaust clip- http://s340.photobucket.com/albums/o...nt=exhaust.flv
Alrighty, it looks like I got a bit hasty in my original post and didn't fill in all the details. I'm think I'm gonna be running the stock audiophile 6cd HU for factory look. Then again, I'm still open for suggestions on a decent double din cd/mp3 player, it doesn't need DVD/nav capabilities.
btw, I fixed a few of the specs on the amps, shouldn't 125w rms x 2 @ 2 ohm run the momo comps? (forget to put x2)
other than that, will the amps I picked up run those speakers/subs? I tried to find decent brands that were close to exactly the rms wattage of the speakers/subs and they seem to have decent reviews elsewhere.
most speakers do not come in 2 ohm resistance. you'll need an amp that can do around 125 at 4 ohms
components are different from subs in that they typically only are made in 4 ohm and there are not multiple wiring options to achieve a different load on the amp
other than that your setup looks pretty good
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2000 F150 Extd Cab: Clarion Max385vd, Alpine Type R Components (front) and coaxials (rear), Orion D2400 amp, Alpine F300 amp, Orion H2 12 Sub
...Factory Five 1965 Shelby Cobra kit car (in progress)
It has the same internals as the similar Arc Audio model, which are very expensive and well renowned amplifiers. These amps are also underrated. This amp would match your components well.
thanks for the tip msall, looks like I'd be getting quite a better amp for just about the same price with that one.. Does everything else look okay? and I think I might end up swapping out the Audiophile HU for a Clarion DUZ385SAT, it looks like it's got decent reviews across the board and has a pretty decent "factory" look to it, which might help prevent window bashing. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DUZ385SAT.html
Anywho, how much do you think a quality install would cost for all this? I don't know left from right when it comes to wiring so I'm gonna prolly need them to supply any additional accessories and wiring. Should I buy my own wiring or let them supply? I'm gonna call around tomorrow, but I'd like to get an idea from the pros on here first.
Anywho, how much do you think a quality install would cost for all this? I don't know left from right when it comes to wiring so I'm gonna prolly need them to supply any additional accessories and wiring. Should I buy my own wiring or let them supply? I'm gonna call around tomorrow, but I'd like to get an idea from the pros on here first.
No problem.
Replacing the head unit is definitely worth it, the sound quality will be much better coming from a better source.
As far as installation costs, i install all of my own stuff so i have no clue what a shop would charge. Wait for Low E Red to chime in, he himself works as an installer at an audio store. He could give you a good estimate.
gotcha.. so am I missing any other important parts? I've heard the terms LOC, capacitor, yellow top, distribution block and etc thrown out there before, should I pick these up? As for as power/speaker cables, should I buy my own to ensure I get a good quality/cheaper price compared to the audio shop?
dont bother with a capacitor. they are useless. im running 1200 watts on my stock battery, so you shouldnt need a yellowtop, a distribtion block is used to run one big wire to the battery, then smaller wires to each amp, i would probably order all the wiring yourself, depending on the installer, they might charge you out the ass for it
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2000 F150 Extd Cab: Clarion Max385vd, Alpine Type R Components (front) and coaxials (rear), Orion D2400 amp, Alpine F300 amp, Orion H2 12 Sub
...Factory Five 1965 Shelby Cobra kit car (in progress)
You should definitly buy your own wires. Shops will charge you more for them, and use crappy ones at the same time. I recommend www.KnuKonceptz.com for wiring and distro block/battery terminals. Their wires are top notch quality and their prices are fair.
Also, you probably wont need a new battery or upgraded electrical unless you have other electrical goodies (HIDs, offroad lights, CB etc). But just know that if you are blasting your stereo without the truck running, your battery will die pretty fast.
Dont use capacitors, they dont do chit. You will only need to use LOCs if you keep your stock HU, which i dont recommend doing.
ok, gotcha.. so If I were to go with the listed setup, how much would you estimate my wiring would cost from somewhere like knukonceptz? I really don't know which gauge and how long of wire I need for power, speakers, amps, and all that stuff.. I'm really clueless on this part of the setup. details or sticky to a thread explaining would be extremely helpful
Okay.. I've been lurking around and asking questions left and right on how to get a decent upgrade from my Audiophile system on my 2008 F150 FX4 Supercrew. I think I've researched just about everything I can thus far, and I think I'm just about ready to take the plunge. I want to keep the stock look, and don't want to give anyone an extra reason to bash in my window, so I'm gonna keep the stock Audiophile 6cd changer HU.
$ 70 - 2 Polk db571 (60w rms) - rear fill on HU
$155 - 2 Polk mmc6500 (125w rms) - front comp
$110 - Kicker zx250.2 (125w rms x 2 @ 2 ohm) - front amp
$220 - 2 10" Rockford Fosgate p3sd210 (300w rms) - underseat sub
$150 - Kenwood excelon kac-x10d (600w rms X 1 @ 2 ohm) - sub amp
$155 - supercrewsounds 2 10" underseat box (can't build my own)
$860 - subtotal
Your knowledge is improving. Like the "decked" dB's in the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeruin
thanks for the tip msall, looks like I'd be getting quite a better amp for just about the same price with that one.. Does everything else look okay? and I think I might end up swapping out the Audiophile HU for a Clarion DUZ385SAT, it looks like it's got decent reviews across the board and has a pretty decent "factory" look to it, which might help prevent window bashing. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...DUZ385SAT.html
Anywho, how much do you think a quality install would cost for all this? I don't know left from right when it comes to wiring so I'm gonna prolly need them to supply any additional accessories and wiring. Should I buy my own wiring or let them supply? I'm gonna call around tomorrow, but I'd like to get an idea from the pros on here first.
Not a big fan of the Clarion radios. Ill enjoy the flame that comes my way but never could get into them. I just feel like you pay too much for what you get. Hell at 110$ you get Sat Ready, Ipod Ready, etc...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mSaLL150
You should definitly buy your own wires. Shops will charge you more for them, and use crappy ones at the same time. I recommend www.KnuKonceptz.com for wiring and distro block/battery terminals. Their wires are top notch quality and their prices are fair.
Also, you probably wont need a new battery or upgraded electrical unless you have other electrical goodies (HIDs, offroad lights, CB etc). But just know that if you are blasting your stereo without the truck running, your battery will die pretty fast.
Dont use capacitors, they dont do chit. You will only need to use LOCs if you keep your stock HU, which i dont recommend doing.
I do and dont agree. Bringing your own wires is nice because you have more control over the wire quality, brand and size. But bringing your own wires might cause an increase in labor due to lack of revenue generated off the products...
Capacitors are the most mis-understood topic I have found of late. They do have a lot of a good purpose but its not for what people are thinking for. It works wonders filtering out the left over AC ripple. This in turn (on Non-Regulated Internal Power Supplies amplifiers) can help the amp run cooler (internal caps have to work less) and draw less current therefore making the amp more efficient.
Is it for Reserve banks, not really.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeruin
ok, gotcha.. so If I were to go with the listed setup, how much would you estimate my wiring would cost from somewhere like knukonceptz? I really don't know which gauge and how long of wire I need for power, speakers, amps, and all that stuff.. I'm really clueless on this part of the setup. details or sticky to a thread explaining would be extremely helpful
This becomes rather personal. Can you see yourself upgrading at all in the future, whether it be larger amps, spks, and/or subs? If so, larger wire is the better option.
You will really need approx 17-20ft of Power wire.
14-17' RCA's (3x)
50-60' of spk wire 16ga is fine...
A good option (no more upgrades) would be to pick up a Rockford or Kicker 4ga Dual amp wiring kit. You will need to buy 2 more RCA's with the RF and 3 sets with the KKR.
hmm.. well if 17-20ft of Power wire, 14-17' RCA's (3x), and 50-60' of spk wire 16ga is all I need.. then how hard could it really be to make this install myself? Do I need a wiring harness for the headunit? I guess my main problem is knowing where to route the cables and such to make it look clean.. anyone got a sticky to a thread showing a complete install like mine?
Soso.. I guess my final question is how much do you guys think this install would cost at an audio shop if I brought "everything" in and just had them tie it all together for a clean install?
I emailed a bunch of audio places last night for quotes and so far only got one reply for $350 on labor only for total install.. sounds a bit high considering the total cost of all my equipment is only about $1000.. lol, i dunno, you guys tell me..
Will this sound good?
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