I was reading here for months about subs for my 2004 supercab. I bought fosgate power 150 off of ebay for $40 brand new and it works and still in box with certs 227watts RMS @ 2 ohms.

I installed a used/refurb pioneer MP7500 and added XM terk adapter XM and radio together $290. works great

I was looking at sub boxs locally but couldn't find any on the shelves at the local shops they were all custom or ordered and around $145 for 2x10 across the whole back. I didn't want to buy 2 10's or take out the jack. I just wanted extra oomph and a good value..

The ones on the net were mostly 2 x 10s as well with 5.25" mounting depths for around the same price but $20 shipping, The singles were basically half the box same depth and only 0.67-0.70 CU FT. at $100 or more...

So I bought glue, silicone, 2 sheets of 1/2" 2'x4' MDF, 1 sheet 3/4 2'x4'. I designed the box for the 60% rear seat install.
I used solidworks and have the full CAD drawings, 3d Model, Bill Of Materials. I am thinking of posting onthe net for a few bucks with a how to plan to build the box for like $10... I was able to build the box for $20 worth of material and 8hrs.

On to the box
It has an internal volume 0.756 cu ft
does not extend beyond the seat edge
It has 'True depth' of 5.375" this relates to a 5.75" mounting depth.

I installed a POWERBASS USA PB-B105Dv.2
10" Dual 4 OHM voicecoil. 250W RMS

It hits pretty nice. Not a competition setup but for a first time box maker and value parts it is more then adequate.

MY question what is the best way or website to setup/learn about the crossovers. The pioneer has several LPF,HPF plus the amps filters and boost. How do I get the best sound?

I used WINISD and my QTC os 1.1 at 0.75cuft with a RES HZ at 56.....

I am sort of lost with WINISD. How do I use it?

 

SHOW US SOME PICS!!!

The only thing I use winisd for is just looking at the output curve it gives you so I have an idea of what the box will sound like to some extent. I was lucky enough to own a sub on the list of presets. Entered my box type, volume and got a chart, and the program is GOOD. When building custom boxes, it's sometimes hard to get the cubic inches you want, so I can see what affect I am having on a box by sacrificing an inch here, or there...


If you mess with it, change box sizes and keep both traces on the graph, you'll see what effects a small vs a large enclosure, small enclosures tend to amplify a certain bandwith(if i can get away with saying that) but at a loss of really low end bass.

I like my bass to be firm, and balanced with the rest of the speakers. A good thump is still enjoyable, but not too much. This is why I look for basically a flat curve that extends as far "southwest as possible."

 

I will post some tonight

 

Most people set their subs to play 80hz and below. Mess around with that. Don't build a passive crossover for your sub, its not needed.

 

I'm trying to build my own sub box. What is WINISD and how do you use it? Where can I get a copy?

Thanks,

Mike
MS

 

It is cool and fun to build your own box, but doing it to save $ can be a bit misleading. If you can find the materials for $20 wich to me is unlikely if you include carpet, screws, glue, terminal blocks, Ports (ported/bandpass) and finally wood (not including woodworking tools) you neglect the value of your time. Look 8hrs x $20 (if your paying yourself cheap) is $160 add the materials 50bucks minimum and your box is $210!!! and you risk cutting all your fingers off in the process. I'm just kidding around, not making fun of you. However, as any serious box builder will tell you 1/2" mdf is a poor choice for the box if your planning to run any real power to you setup. The box it-self runs the risk of distorting and sympathetic vibration can set in and you'll drive youself crazy wondering where it's coming from. 3/4" should be the minimum. Just trying to help.
Total cost of DIY box= $210.
Building a sweet box that works= priceless!!!

 

I agree with kloost about the wood thickness, but your not runnin high SPL so it shouldnt matter too much in your case. Never the less, sounds like you got a heck of a set up. I wanna see picks. Box building is not easy.

Crossovers are simple. Active = altering the preamp signal. Passive = altering the post amp signal. Passive is necessary for multiple amp and speaker combinations. The built in crossover on the Fosgate Power amp is a great crossover. Most folks set there crossovers at one of three settings 50, 80 or 120hz low pass. This only allows signals below the specified limit to pass through. 80 or 120 is most practicle for a 10" sub. Unless your box is tuned to 40hz through the port, I wouldnt mess with 50. Most amps are 12db crossovers. However if you use a good headunit with a built in sub crossover (ie Pioneer) you can almost achieve a 24db crossover slope. The end result is less trash and more thump. Also the amp will perform at its peak with less distortion if the gain is between 1/2 and 3/4. Never turn it all the way up, it will be louder put its pumping out lots of distortion and over time will damage your woofers. www.crutchfield.com has a whole plethera of information on various aspects of car audio, check em out. Dont forget the pics!

 

here is the 3d model of my design

soldiworks instant web, no password, just hit ok

 

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try again

 

jcuff:

Same result...