sub/amp need help
#1
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: in a van down by the river
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sub/amp need help
Since i have put in my subs i have had a static noise coming from the subs. It only does it sometimes. It is more of a kackle noise. Just when they hit. The subs are ok because i have hooked them up to a different amp. I have concluded after replacing the rca wires that it is the rca connector on the amp itself that is messed up. When i push hard on the rca wire into the amp, it doesnt make this noice. But when i let go it comes back. It is just the one of the 2 that do this. Is there anything i can do to fix it? Replacing the rca connector on the amp or what can i do?
#2
since i don't know what kind of setup you have, i'll tell you what i think is the problem and what i did to my ride. some of this stuff will run to the expensive side, but it is worth it in the longrun. I did mine on a strict budget (the wife has the checkbook) so it is a doable option if you're single. ha ha ha ha ha
your problem may be one of three basic things i learned the hard way--no capacitor for your subs, bad RCA cables, or amps without passive crossover controls.
1. if the wiring you have is heavy enough to handle the the needs of your amps, you may need to install a capacitor on the amp running your subs. when you're thumpin' some serious bass, your amps don't have enough juice to really drive the subs. this is probably a reason you get the cracking and popping through the subs that you mentioned. if you install a capacitor from either 1/2 to equal the peak output of the amp that drives the subs, i went through 3 sets of subs before i finally figured that one out. i'm currently running 0 gauge O/2 free cable into a Streetwires power distrbution block, then 4 gauge cable to the amps with a 400-watt capacitor running to the subs' amp. the capacitor is going to set you back a chunk, anywhere from 79 - 200 bucks.
2. go to crutchfield.com and get a couple of sets of Streetwires zero noise patch cables. they come in 2, 4, and 6 channel configurations and different lengths, and they won't set you back too much in your wallet. i'd recommend a 4-channel and a 2-channel set, depending on the channels of your amps and the outputs of your head unit. you'll notice a definite change in sound quality and eliminate about 95% of any other electronic feedback you're getting. these cables from 35 to 99 bucks a set
3. depending on the aftermarket speakers you have, you are probably losing a bunch of sound quality because of your amps. if your amps are not equipped with a passive crossover, your speakers are working too hard to produce all those frequencies you're throwing at it when it's cranked up.
if your amps come with passive crossovers, you'll need to adjust them to get the best out of your speakers. on your regular speakers, go with the high pass filter and adjust it until you get a hint of bass through the speakers. also, if your amps have an output adjustment, don't turn it up to max output--crank it to around 75 - 85 percent of max output.
Use the low pass option of the amp driving your sub, unless it is designed for subwoofers. if that is the case go for the lowest frequency to get the bigger boom in the room. refer to the output settings i mentioned earlier for your sub-amp as well.
if you don't have passive crossovers on your amps, you can get RCA inline crossovers through crutchfiels as well. just remember--high pass for your regular speakers(100Hz-up), and low pass for your subs(100Hz- down)
my setup has a 4-channel JVC amp with hi/lo passive crossover pushing 650 watts to 4 Alpine 6" X 9" 3-way speakers. i have the hi pass filter selected and set to 100Hz (this means frequencies from 100Hz and above is played through the speaker) . i have a Harman-Kardin Sub amp pushing 800 watts to 2 10-in Sony Xplod subs. This amp also has passive crossover adjustments designed for subwoofer, set at 90Hz(frequencies 90Hz and below goes through the subs BOOOM-BOOOM.)
if you need any additional info, email me and i'll see what i can do to help
PS
your problem may be one of three basic things i learned the hard way--no capacitor for your subs, bad RCA cables, or amps without passive crossover controls.
1. if the wiring you have is heavy enough to handle the the needs of your amps, you may need to install a capacitor on the amp running your subs. when you're thumpin' some serious bass, your amps don't have enough juice to really drive the subs. this is probably a reason you get the cracking and popping through the subs that you mentioned. if you install a capacitor from either 1/2 to equal the peak output of the amp that drives the subs, i went through 3 sets of subs before i finally figured that one out. i'm currently running 0 gauge O/2 free cable into a Streetwires power distrbution block, then 4 gauge cable to the amps with a 400-watt capacitor running to the subs' amp. the capacitor is going to set you back a chunk, anywhere from 79 - 200 bucks.
2. go to crutchfield.com and get a couple of sets of Streetwires zero noise patch cables. they come in 2, 4, and 6 channel configurations and different lengths, and they won't set you back too much in your wallet. i'd recommend a 4-channel and a 2-channel set, depending on the channels of your amps and the outputs of your head unit. you'll notice a definite change in sound quality and eliminate about 95% of any other electronic feedback you're getting. these cables from 35 to 99 bucks a set
3. depending on the aftermarket speakers you have, you are probably losing a bunch of sound quality because of your amps. if your amps are not equipped with a passive crossover, your speakers are working too hard to produce all those frequencies you're throwing at it when it's cranked up.
if your amps come with passive crossovers, you'll need to adjust them to get the best out of your speakers. on your regular speakers, go with the high pass filter and adjust it until you get a hint of bass through the speakers. also, if your amps have an output adjustment, don't turn it up to max output--crank it to around 75 - 85 percent of max output.
Use the low pass option of the amp driving your sub, unless it is designed for subwoofers. if that is the case go for the lowest frequency to get the bigger boom in the room. refer to the output settings i mentioned earlier for your sub-amp as well.
if you don't have passive crossovers on your amps, you can get RCA inline crossovers through crutchfiels as well. just remember--high pass for your regular speakers(100Hz-up), and low pass for your subs(100Hz- down)
my setup has a 4-channel JVC amp with hi/lo passive crossover pushing 650 watts to 4 Alpine 6" X 9" 3-way speakers. i have the hi pass filter selected and set to 100Hz (this means frequencies from 100Hz and above is played through the speaker) . i have a Harman-Kardin Sub amp pushing 800 watts to 2 10-in Sony Xplod subs. This amp also has passive crossover adjustments designed for subwoofer, set at 90Hz(frequencies 90Hz and below goes through the subs BOOOM-BOOOM.)
if you need any additional info, email me and i'll see what i can do to help
PS
Last edited by percysledge; 11-13-2004 at 09:31 AM.
#4
#5
if the amp you have is still under warranty, exchange it for another one from where you bought it. if there is a good electronics repair shop in your area, they should be able to fix the connection.
i wouldn't recommend that you do it yourself unless you're really good with a soldering iron in tight places. the positive and negative connections are really close together on an RCA terminal and you could short out the terminal if you heat the connection points too much or use too much soldering material.
good luck!
i wouldn't recommend that you do it yourself unless you're really good with a soldering iron in tight places. the positive and negative connections are really close together on an RCA terminal and you could short out the terminal if you heat the connection points too much or use too much soldering material.
good luck!
#6
That's a pretty big solution to repair a broken solder joint!
Can you use a soldering iron? My pioneer was an EASY fix. 4 screws to pull off the bottom cover(obviously you've done that), and I just had to reheat the connection and the broken joint fixed itself!
Voila! But, I'd trust a guy named "hung" with a soldering iron too - as long as he's not trying to sell me his greatest hits CD!!
Can you use a soldering iron? My pioneer was an EASY fix. 4 screws to pull off the bottom cover(obviously you've done that), and I just had to reheat the connection and the broken joint fixed itself!
Voila! But, I'd trust a guy named "hung" with a soldering iron too - as long as he's not trying to sell me his greatest hits CD!!
#7
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: in a van down by the river
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haha funny....yeah i was overwhelmed of how easy it was to fix. I was a bit excited after screwing with it for 2 weeks and discovering that was it. Now it sounds great. Thanks for all the replies guys....now just give me an idea of how to make my own seat lift for a 99 with the fold-down seats.