So Tuesday morning I went to start the truck prior to leaving for work and all it would do was crank. I drove it the night before and daily without any problems. I have seen a few threads in here relating but have gone through all steps and haven't found the cure. So far this is what I have done.

Check engine light comes on when key is turned to on so I believe the computer is working. RPM's go up to about 300 when cranking.

Scanned for codes none present.

Ensured my anti-theft hadn't been triggered. Light blinks every 2 seconds as required the stays on while tuning key and goes off once turned. According to manual, system isn't triggered.

Listened for fuel pump to kick on when key is turned. I can hear it kick in and hum for a second or two and then it produces a little squeak noise and stops.

Hit the intake with a couple sprays of starting fluid, no luck.

Checked Inertia switch, button was pushed in and wasn't popped.

Pulled spark plugs, 1 on each side and checked for spark by grounding them out and turning the key. Both produced a spark.

Visually and MM tested all fuses. Everything looked good and tested for continuity. Swapped a few fuses and relays out with one another (matching) just because and still wouldn't start.

Noid tested all injectors. Light comes on for each when key is turned.

Pulled and swapped relays in battery junction box. 301? I think. No Joy. Jumped 30 to 87 for the hell of it and heard pump kick in with same squeak at the end.

Gave the tank a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet. No changes.

Changed out the fuel filter and left the rear line disconnected to ensure my pump was sending fuel. Tried to start, fuel shot into bucket. Connected new fuel filter, tried to start same outcome.

No Schrader valve on rail so I bypassed pressure gauge test due to no valve. Disconnected main fuel line from rail and fuel is present.

Tapped IAC hoping to knock something loose still no luck.

At this point I've reached my mastery level and am hoping someone has something I can test or try out. I don't believe it's the pump because of the fuel present in the rail and squirting from the line when disconnected from filter, and the starting fluid didn't do the trick. The electrical side has all checked good also, so I'm moving to Air. My next step was going to be to remove the TB and ensure it's opening and closings as it should. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Bob

 

Try cracking the throttle while cranking.

Check your PCV valve hoses for large leaks.

 

Check the FPDM for corrosion.

 

I checked the PCV valve hose. No cracks and seems to be in good shape. I'm about to pull the valve itself out and see if it still rattles. Since I can't get it started I obviously can't check for suction.

I forgot to mention before that I looked at the MAF sensor. It looks good but I'm not sure if there's a way to ensure it's operating correctly.

I am working up the strength to check the FPDM. I stuck my phone above the spare the other day and snapped a few pics. I didn't see any cracks but there was some corrosion. I live in N.C. and its pouring out right now. Had to push the front end of the truck in the garage with the wife. haha What a treat that was. Already soaked so I guess nows the best time to go lower the spare and get under there to get a better look.

I'll let you guys know what I find.

Thanks,
Bob

 

This is what my FPDM looked like on the bottom. Not sure if you can see it but there's also a crack on the side there. My pump was working but I was hoping that it just wasn't sending enough pressure. Got a new one and changed it out to find I still have the same problem. Unfortunately, I'm thinking it's time to have it towed to the shop.

Bob

 

If you bought an aftermarket FPDM, it's quite possibly defective. They don't have a very good track record.