Hello,




Yesterday I drove away from my home and got about a quarter of a mile when the engine started to sputter and run very rough. The truck lost power and then after about another 30 seconds died all together. The truck now turns over just fine but will not start.


I had a similar problem about a month ago when I came out one morning and the truck would crank just fine but now start. Did not have any codes then so first I checked the inertia switch. Then I tried a new FPDM as I have just over 200K miles but it did not help(returned the FPDM as mine was not corroded through). I changed the fuel filter, which seemed pretty dirty and when I had the fuel line apart I had 0 fuel come out when I cycled the key to prime the pump. I thought the fuel pump must be bad and purchased a new one but never installed it because the truck suddenly started right up! While the truck wouldn't start I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it as it had never been done.


In this latest case I was able to pull several codes....P0174, P0191 and P1000. As some history I have owned this vehicles since 2006 and am still running the original plugs Yes I know 203K miles and original plugs.


Any suggestions on where I should start??!?

 

New plugs. And you may have stressed the coils to the point they need replaced. At the very least, you need new boots.

 

So in your opinion those codes point to the plugs needing to be replaced?

 

No, the P0191 is fuel rail pressure sensor which is probably the reason for the no-start.

http://www.autocodes.com/p0191_ford.html

P0174 is lean bank 2. P1000 is not all monitored sensors are ready.

With 203k, that's just ridiculous not changing the plugs.

 

I don't think this is what you would call a successful extraction....




Now what.....????

 

Looks like a successful extraction to me. With 200k miles you can expect the tip to be burned off.

 

The tip didn't burn off on the first plug I removed. It came out when the broken ceramic portion of the plug. I was worried because I had read somewhere that the strap wouldn't break when you push the ceramic down. I found out that isn't accurate.


7 0f 8 plugs broke off in the head and I have removed 6 of the broken plugs. The far back plug on the passenger side is giving me issues as I can't get any bite at all on it with the lisle tool. Not sure if my thread is worn or if the shell is stripped out....

 

Here is a pic of the threads on the Lisle tool. Anyone have an opinion on whether this should still be working?

 

they look ok to me. Have you applied PB BLASTER or KROIL or the like to the spark plug bore? I've read in numerous places that it helps break up the carbon holding the end in the bore making removal easier

 

Before I attempted to remove the spark plugs I hit each of them with some pb blaster and carb cleaner. I let it set over night and 7 out of 8 broke. Perhaps I should some more carb cleaner down the cylinder now that just the broken portion is left? Is it possible that shell could fall down into the head if the carb cleaner loosens it up enough now that most the plug is gone???


Also, the main issue is that the lisle tool isn't gripping anything. If the tool grips it is a piece of cake to get the last part of the plug out.

 

Okay so I have no changed out all the plugs, coils and boots. The truck is put back together but of course this did nothing to help the crank but no start problem.


The problem would seem to stem from the P0191 code. How do I determine what would be causing this code?

 

Click the link in post #4. Also check the FPDM for corrosion.

 

In the original post I had mentioned that I have already changed the fuel filter and plugged in a new FPDM to no avail. As far as clicking the link in your earlier post I have taken a look at that. If the fuel pressure sensor is bad would it prevent the vehicle from starting completely? It seems like in other threads I have read that people get the P0191 code but the vehicle still runs somewhat.