I need help with a bit of a dilemma I've run into. I have a 2000 f150 4x4 and Im a bit confused on the type of carrier these trucks came with factory. I've read on this and other forums about the types of front diffs that work and don't work but I'm not sure what I have. My truck locks all 4 tires in 4wd. Zero slip and it is very difficult to turn and chirps tires when turning in 4wd. But when 4wd is disengaged truck turns fine and in 2wd it corners no problem but always locks both tires even when drifting and spinning the tires on asphalt. I've heard these clutch type rear ends are terrible and fail but mine always gets me out of trouble and never slips. Front diff doesn't push at all when disengaged. But both tires spin evenly under any conditions that I've done. Both are still factory sealed at 150,000 mi. Very confused on their dependability cause they work better than any other vehicle I've ever driven. 100% lock all 4 tires with the flip of the factory switch with great 2wd manners. Any ideas? Thanks

 

The clutch type traction lock rears have been very reliable on my two trucks. The 2000 XLTScab4x4, 5.4 with traction lock rear was still working fine at 170k when my buddy sold it. I did have to change the fluid at about 80k to get rid of chattering on turns.
My current truck's traction lock is still working great at 139k miles. If you want to rock climb, you need more heavy duty equipment but for street use, it's all you need or has been in my experience.

 

Hey bobcat are you saying when you are in 2wd and you crank the steering that the fronts lock up or the tears? Little confused here. For what it's worth, I had purchased a used 07 screw 4x4 full size and found out that the rear end was shot, only 75k on truck. If the rear end is warmed up, meaning a hour drive at decent ambient temperature, and you go to make a u turn and the damn thing shudders like crazy it's your rear diff. True trac riffs are the best on the market for limited slip, look into em.