Ecoboost longevity
#1
Ecoboost longevity
Hey guys, my 2013 lease is up and ain't no way I'm getting back into another at the prices going on at the moment. So I'm seriously thinking about buying out my current lease as the buyout is pretty decent. The big thing looming over me is should I be paranoid about locking into the ecoboost motor (3.5L) . Even the dealer said I hope that ecoboost makes it (dunno if that was a tactic to get me to sign on a new one). I haven't done anything yet but not much time to decide whether I lock in to this motor or look into other options. Should I be afraid lol?? I actually LOVE the motor but I read alot about some of the concerns some have with it. I actually have a slight rattle in the motor at startup which I've read is timing chain stretch. But I'm still under warranty (barely) and plan to have the dealer fix asap. Whatcha think??? I really love the truck and Its the devil I Know vs the devil I don't if I look for a used V8
#2
#3
Since you're taking to the dealer anyway, have them give you a report on the condition of the engine. Then you'll have a decent idea of keep it or unload it. If you decide to unload it, I'd wait until the 2017s come out. The new 3.5 Ecoboost solves all of the issues with the direct injection BS. Mostly because it normally runs in sequential injection like the old EFI engines until the power is needed and then brings on the direct injection. Yes, it has 2 injection systems. While new to Ford and Ecoboost, it's not new in European cars. The new engine is eons ahead of the current power plant.
#4
I know of several high mileage EB's and they have been pretty good with close to 250k on the odometer. Keep your oil changed around the 4 to 5k mark, Use good oil and good Fuel and change plugs every 30 to 40k and have fun with it.
I have 64k on mine and its been great motor wise. Only problem i have had is the front cover leak and a coolant line leak going to the turbo. That issue was fixed under warranty around 50k.
I have 64k on mine and its been great motor wise. Only problem i have had is the front cover leak and a coolant line leak going to the turbo. That issue was fixed under warranty around 50k.
#5
A traveling equipment salesman friend of mine traded his 2012 in at 23x,000 and replaced it with a 2014 EB. His company has switched over to only running them. He wasn't religious about maintenance. He did take care of it but when you're on the road all the time you do it when you can.
I'm sitting at 113,000 on my 2011 and outside of oil, filters and plugs I haven't had a single problem. There are quite a few people on forums that are getting up there in miles now and most are not having problems. Most of the people with problems seem to have had them fairly early on so if it runs good now I don't see a reason to dump it.
Change your oil and use quality oil and filter, change your spark plugs every 40k or so and drill the intercooler. This will cure most of the issues this motor might have.
I'm sitting at 113,000 on my 2011 and outside of oil, filters and plugs I haven't had a single problem. There are quite a few people on forums that are getting up there in miles now and most are not having problems. Most of the people with problems seem to have had them fairly early on so if it runs good now I don't see a reason to dump it.
Change your oil and use quality oil and filter, change your spark plugs every 40k or so and drill the intercooler. This will cure most of the issues this motor might have.
#7
A traveling equipment salesman friend of mine traded his 2012 in at 23x,000 and replaced it with a 2014 EB. His company has switched over to only running them. He wasn't religious about maintenance. He did take care of it but when you're on the road all the time you do it when you can.
I'm sitting at 113,000 on my 2011 and outside of oil, filters and plugs I haven't had a single problem. There are quite a few people on forums that are getting up there in miles now and most are not having problems. Most of the people with problems seem to have had them fairly early on so if it runs good now I don't see a reason to dump it.
Change your oil and use quality oil and filter, change your spark plugs every 40k or so and drill the intercooler. This will cure most of the issues this motor might have.
I'm sitting at 113,000 on my 2011 and outside of oil, filters and plugs I haven't had a single problem. There are quite a few people on forums that are getting up there in miles now and most are not having problems. Most of the people with problems seem to have had them fairly early on so if it runs good now I don't see a reason to dump it.
Change your oil and use quality oil and filter, change your spark plugs every 40k or so and drill the intercooler. This will cure most of the issues this motor might have.
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#8
Since you're taking to the dealer anyway, have them give you a report on the condition of the engine. Then you'll have a decent idea of keep it or unload it. If you decide to unload it, I'd wait until the 2017s come out. The new 3.5 Ecoboost solves all of the issues with the direct injection BS. Mostly because it normally runs in sequential injection like the old EFI engines until the power is needed and then brings on the direct injection. Yes, it has 2 injection systems. While new to Ford and Ecoboost, it's not new in European cars. The new engine is eons ahead of the current power plant.
#9
#10
- Jack
#11
However, the fixes do not address the oil in the intake tract that comes from the PCV system. The EB design is much better than some of the earlier DI designs such as the VW FSI motors. But, there still is some amount of oil vapor that gets through and good amount of it condenses inside the intercooler. Drilling the hole lets this mess drain out instead of going into the engine.
IMO, drilling a 2011-2012 truck is a must and drilling a 2013-2016 is a good idea. But I'm not making the payment on any truck other than my own so it's entirely up to you if you would like to do it.
#13
Mine is a 2013 and I made it to 54k miles before getting the moisture issue, cruised in light rain for 90 miles started to get up on the Interstate and fell on its face, light flashing and running rough. Finished the trip, got home drilled it and couldn't believe how much water and oil crap came out. I also live in West Texas and it's not known for rainy humid environment. So I definitely recommend drilling the hole in the intercooler
#14
The overall humidity doesn't really create the problem. Most of the time it's people who like in cooler climates that have the issue. Water builds and when the temperature inside the IC drops below the dew point. If you're in south Louisiana it might be stupid humid but the dew point is way below the ambient temperature so moisture isn't condensing in the IC. Now, drop the air temp quite a bit and the two temps get a lot closer. Then the IC temps can drop below the dew point and the water in the air changes from gas to liquid form. If this happens long enough a big puddle is formed and when you smash the gas it gets pulled into the engine.
#15