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Well finally stopped being lazy and started tearing the motor apart today. Ran into a speed bump saturday was going to pull the whole front end to pull the motor and trans but found out the core support is a b**** so just going to pull the motor from the top any suggestions? would I have enough room to pull the motor and trans together through the top of the engine bay? Here's a pic from today.
I've only pulled them separate as my engine hoist isn't one of those fancy ones that can adjust angles. Its pretty tight with just the engine, I don't think a transmission will pass through but like I said I've never officially tried.
I've only pulled them separate as my engine hoist isn't one of those fancy ones that can adjust angles. Its pretty tight with just the engine, I don't think a transmission will pass through but like I said I've never officially tried.
Yea I've read its a tight fit alone even trying to get the motor out alone. Been really busy lately but managed to work on the truck some more yesterday. All the bellhousing are out. A/C is dropped all electrical is removed, most of the hoses are unplugged besides the hose that runs from the water pump I need a special heater hose tool to unplug it. Passenger motor mount is loose as well as drivers side. From the looks of it I think the starter is attached to the tranny so I let that be. Hopefully should be yanking the bastard out next weekend. Any other suggestions? I was reading some stuff about the converter seal and making sure to undo the converter bolts from the flywheel
So what are your plans for the motor? Will you being doing the 8 rib swap. I highly recommend it. Blower pullies are dirt cheap as JDM has them on special for $60. The rest of the pullies will run you around $150 total.
Last edited by twinskrewd; 05-05-2015 at 09:16 PM.
So what are your plans for the motor? Will you being doing the 8 rib swap. I highly recommend it. Blower pullies are dirt cheap as JDM has them on special for $60. The rest of the pullies will run you around $150 total.
Built bottom end with manly h-beam rods and Mahle flat top pistons. Ported heads. Stage 2 cams. Yes I have pullies for 8 rib swap. I want to buy the smallest pulley for the whipple so I can make as much boost as possible. As far as drive train 4.11s are in the front and rear. Only upgraded the rear driveshaft because I don't plan on beating on it when it's in 4x4. And then for the trans I'll do what you suggested as we talked about yesterday. Should have motor out next weekend. Trans too just depends how much time I will have this weekend
Built bottom end with manly h-beam rods and Mahle flat top pistons. Ported heads. Stage 2 cams. Yes I have pullies for 8 rib swap. I want to buy the smallest pulley for the whipple so I can make as much boost as possible. As far as drive train 4.11s are in the front and rear. Only upgraded the rear driveshaft because I don't plan on beating on it when it's in 4x4. And then for the trans I'll do what you suggested as we talked about yesterday. Should have motor out next weekend. Trans too just depends how much time I will have this weekend
Sweet. The 8 rib swap is well worth it and a fairly inexpensive mod. With the Metco crank pully and the Whipple 3.00 i am making 13.5-14psi. Keep in mind I have the intake optimized with a 4" inlet and 90mm throttle body. The 2.70 pulley should make 16psi and the 2.50 which is the smallest will make 18psi. Hope that helps.
The 2.70 pulley is $60 at JDM right now which is $100 less then the Whipple brand pulley.
With ported and polished heads and stage 2 cams he boost will come down a bit which is perfect. Less boost, less heat, more cfm's, and more power.
I Have not pulled an engine from an F150 yet, but believe assembly procedure is same as f250. For my F250 i did cab off and it was a breeze. Less pain labor and time.
6 cab bolts
2 grounding straps (firewall passenger side to RH head back/passenger side under cab from body to frame.
Disconnect brake master cylinder from brake booster, fold toward engine and strap
Disconnect external trans filter lines from trans cooler
Disconnect parking brakes cable
Remover shifter cable from steering colum and push through floorboard
Remove steering link from steering gearbox and push toward steering colum
Disconnect electrical connectors at drivers side fender well
Disconnect A/C lines at front under the rubber cover between grill and radiator
Disconnect computer electrical connectors and bracket with fuel regulator and fold into engine.
Rest is hoses etc you would disconnect anyway
Then lift into air, i really love doing them this way if i have lift access. Can actually do a complete engine swap in a day or two. I have some pictures if interested.
Good Luck!
Last edited by Deadmeat; 05-09-2015 at 02:42 PM.
Reason: Spelling errors
Sweet. The 8 rib swap is well worth it and a fairly inexpensive mod. With the Metco crank pully and the Whipple 3.00 i am making 13.5-14psi. Keep in mind I have the intake optimized with a 4" inlet and 90mm throttle body. The 2.70 pulley should make 16psi and the 2.50 which is the smallest will make 18psi. Hope that helps.
The 2.70 pulley is $60 at JDM right now which is $100 less then the Whipple brand pulley.
With ported and polished heads and stage 2 cams he boost will come down a bit which is perfect. Less boost, less heat, more cfm's, and more power.
I'll have to email JDM see if they have any 2.50 pulleys for sale. The only other thing ill have to figure out is belt length with the smaller pulley. Dont want belt squeal like the prochargers Is your supercharger ported? I asked JDM if they port em but they don't so once I get the supercharger I gotta see who will port it. Other than that everything else is lined up. Just gotta figure what torque converter to go with from Circle D. Most likely will run 127550 cam I loveeee the way it sounds. And then run std. size intake vlaves and 1mm oversize exhaust valves, bronze valve guides. I have to run phaser limiters too but thats fine most guys who run bigger cams say they dont miss it, could I eliminate having to use vct solenoids then and just have a piece welded over the holes on the valve covers?
I'll have to email JDM see if they have any 2.50 pulleys for sale. The only other thing ill have to figure out is belt length with the smaller pulley. Dont want belt squeal like the prochargers
The Gates K081265 or K081265HD should work just fine. Btw they are making these in custom colors now from what I have seen which is a cool option for a sharp engine bay. If you have belt length concerns, I suggest an MMR water pump pulley Part Number 403435. It's 20% larger which will bring the water pump back to normal opertaing speed since the crank pulley is overdriving it. Should free up a couple of ponies as well. Not bad for $29. Or you could simply switch to a larger idler pulley using Dayco 89157. It's a 90mm. You could switch just one or do both the idler and tensioner pulley. Any of these options would take up any extra belt length while running the 2.50 upper.
Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
Is your supercharger ported? I asked JDM if they port em but they don't so once I get the supercharger I gotta see who will port it. Other than that everything else is lined up.
Mine was ported by Stiegmier but I would never do it again if I had it to do over. Not worth it. The only part that needs porting it the inlet immediatley where the throttle body bolts on. Just needs to be ported to match your throttle body. Very easy to do yourself with a flap sander and a drill.
Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
Just gotta figure what torque converter to go with from Circle D. Most likely will run 127550 cam I loveeee the way it sounds. And then run std. size intake vlaves and 1mm oversize exhaust valves, bronze valve guides. I have to run phaser limiters too but thats fine most guys who run bigger cams say they dont miss it, could I eliminate having to use vct solenoids then and just have a piece welded over the holes on the valve covers?
The Circle D 4R70W-HP-Billet Multi-Disk 11" is the one I have. Great converter and very budget freindly. As for the cams you could run lockouts or limiters. I personally am leaning towards limiters but I may go to lockouts before it's time to assemble.
Love theis video showing the idle and dyno gains from the cams.
The Gates K081265 or K081265HD should work just fine. Btw they are making these in custom colors now from what I have seen which is a cool option for a sharp engine bay. If you have belt length concerns, I suggest an MMR water pump pulley Part Number 403435. It's 20% larger which will bring the water pump back to normal opertaing speed since the crank pulley is overdriving it. Should free up a couple of ponies as well. Not bad for $29. Or you could simply switch to a larger idler pulley using Dayco 89006 or Gates 38010 ($17 at Amazon). You could switch just one or do both the idler and tensioner pulley. Any of these options would take up any extra belt length while running the 2.50 upper.
Mine was ported by Stiegmier but I would never do it again if I had it to do over. Not worth it. The only part that needs porting it the inlet immediatley where the throttle body bolts on. Just needs to be ported to match your throttle body. Very easy to do yourself with a flap sander and a drill.
The Circle D 4R70W-HP-Billet Multi-Disk 11" is the one I have. Great converter and very budget freindly. As for the cams you could run lockouts or limiters. I personally am leaning towards limiters but I may go to lockouts before it's time to assemble.
Love theis video showing the idle and dyno gains from the cams. COMP CAMS 127550 SUPERCHARGER CAMS SPR MUSTANG - YouTube
Awesome info. I ended up ordering the water pump pulley from MMR I also ordered their billet chain guides. Im so sick of hearing about the plastic chain guides breaking. Finally pulled the trigger over the weekend because I got paid and decided to buy the stage 2 cams
Why was porting the supercharger not worth in your opinion? I would of thought that would give you more boost and hell even get some heat out of it. Ill def do the port you said right by the throttle body inlet. Just have to find the hose and piping running from the tb to the intake then ill be good there. Ill prob order the same tq converter you mentioned.
This weekend im hoping to have the motor out "hopefully" all depends on time. I only have a few things left. Drop the ps pump, undo the heater hose, unbolt the tq converter, take out both motor mount bolts, take off the hood and then yank the son of a b. Any suggestions for removing the tq converter? a few guys said to push it in all the way before removing not to sure what they meant as to push it in then take off or push in and pull out with it still attached to the motor so I dont bust the pump gears.
Torque converter isn't an issue. Just be sure not to drop it (let is slide out of the tranny) or you'll have 5qts of fluid on your driveway. Ford uses studs on their converters so you have to pull the engine straight forward to clear them from the flexplate. When you put a new converter in you have to spin it clockwise as you push it into the transmission input shaft and it will basically screw itself the transmission. You'll push on it and it will only go so far, as you spin and push you'll feel it push in further..
Torque converter isn't an issue. Just be sure not to drop it (let is slide out of the tranny) or you'll have 5qts of fluid on your driveway. Ford uses studs on their converters so you have to pull the engine straight forward to clear them from the flexplate. When you put a new converter in you have to spin it clockwise as you push it into the transmission input shaft and it will basically screw itself the transmission. You'll push on it and it will only go so far, as you spin and push you'll feel it push in further..
Thank you. I have the engine hooked up and ready to pull but as the engine lifts so does the trans. I have all bellhousing bolts out. Can't seem to figure out what's holding the 2 together still. Do I have to take of the starter too? It looks like the bolts run through the starter through the motor and bolt to the trans
I'm stumped. Heater hose is disconnected. Ps pump and a/c compressor are dropped. All motor mounts are out. Disconnected the torque converter from the flexplate. Wheen I counted my bellhousing bolts it came to 7. When I looked at the trans I couldn't see anymore bolts. But when I went to lift the motor out the trans lifted with it. Any Ideas?
Motor is out and ready to be dropped off to get built. Need suggestions on some parts;
Ford Gaskets & Head Bolts or ARP Head Studs 12 point? If I go with ARP what brand of head gaskets?
Stock side bolts or ARP side bolts?
Stock Water pump or MMR Performance pump?
Also wondering what are the sizes in diameter for the stock valves in this motor. Looking to go with stainless steel standard size intake valve and stainless steel 1mm oversize exhaust valve.
Ford gaskets for all and Ford timing components. Except guides you may want to upgrade. Irons1n and myself have been chatting about this today. He was suggesting upgraded timing chain guides from MMR.
As for hardware. I would use ARP upgrades on mains, sides, and head studs. A little costly on head studs verses gead bolts but worth the piece of mind.
Water pump, either will do.
Heads, send them to TEA. For $1800-2000 you'll be all set and flow better then anyone else for the money. You could up valve size but I doubt you'll need to. Stainless steel is fine for the intake valves but stick with the Inconel for the exhaust side.
Last edited by twinskrewd; 06-04-2015 at 07:32 PM.
04-13-2015, 12:59 AM
Is your supercharger ported? I asked JDM if they port em but they don't so once I get the supercharger I gotta see who will port it. Other than that everything else is lined up. Just gotta figure what torque converter to go with from Circle D. Most likely will run 127550 cam I loveeee the way it sounds. And then run std. size intake vlaves and 1mm oversize exhaust valves, bronze valve guides. I have to run phaser limiters too but thats fine most guys who run bigger cams say they dont miss it, could I eliminate having to use vct solenoids then and just have a piece welded over the holes on the valve covers?
