All photos referenced in this post are now on the F150online photo gallery under ToyMan. Album is "Keypad Install"


Just completed the install of the Keyless Entry Keypad. I reviewed the instructions on the Expedition board and printed out the wiring diagram. Then examined the module on my 2000 L and recognized that the wires were already in place for the keypad. Went to the dealer and the wiring diagram did show that the wiring harness was in the door.

Do this with the window up at all times.

Remove the door panel by popping off the “sail” panel and the door handle trim. Both should be removed by hand without the use and any tools. This revealed a phillips screw under each one. Remove both screws and lift the door panel up and it comes right off. Unplug all the wiring connectors from the door panel. Just squeeze the release button and pull out.

Next remove the speaker and unplug it. Then used a hair dryer to slowly remove the stuck-on insulation. Remove the entire piece. Look into the top right of the speaker hole and you will find the mysterious plug for the keypad.

SEE ALBUM FOR PHOTO

Push the 2 small white clips and the plug comes right out.

SEE ALBUM FOR PHOTO

In my excitement knowing that I didn’t have to go through the nightmare of completely wiring the keypad, I plugged it in for an immediate test.

SEE ALBUM FOR PHOTO

I looked at the white control module (RAP – Remote Anti-theft Personality) and got my access number. Keyed in the 5 digit and then came the big smile on my face. All features worked.

The next step was to remove the handle. I used a 10 MM socket to get the right nut off. The left nut was real difficult to remove. The connector rod between the handle and the locking mechanism was directly in the way. I used a universal joint for my ¼ “ socket driver and eventually was able to get it off. Using a 3/8 or ½ socket driver will be too large as there is not much room in there. Might give it a try though if that is all you have. The nuts were not 3/8 inch. A 3/8 inch socket could possibly work but there is a threat of rounding off the nut.

I also loosened the bolt holding the left window channel to the door. Lower left corner of the below photo. This helps to get around better to get the left nut off.

SEE ALBUM FOR PHOTO

MAJOR HINT: look at the below photo and you will see a yellow clip that is holding the connector rod to the locking mechanism. The clip can be opened and the rod will come right off. Then it can be removed from the handle. This will make it real easy to get the left nut off. I didn’t do this until I had gotten the handle off. Since this part is threaded, I didn’t know if the clip came off or if the rod was screwed in. The clip does just hold it in. The threads are to make sure it does not slip up and down.

Before removing the handle, I surrounded the entire area with duct tape so the handle would not scratch anything. Good thing as it is real tight getting the lock clip out of the handle assembly


I then removed the handle by pushing the lower part out far enough to get the clip loose that holds the door lock in. Used a pair of channel locks to pull the U shaped pin out. The lock then fell out and I removed the small rod that connects it to the locking mechanism. Only remove the rod from the lock itself and let it dangle inside the door.

Next step was to install the lock and keypad on the new handle. Put the lock back in the handle and secure it with the U shaped pin that holds it in. DON’T put the connector rod for the lock back on yet. This can be done after the new handle has been bolted in. Attach the keypad to the handle (one screw). My keypad did not come with a screw. Be careful with the size and length of the screw you use since this is plastic and if you crack the hole opening YOU are screwed and not the handle. Check with you dealer and see if he shows a part number for the screw.

Feed the keypad wiring through the door handle hole and put the handle in the door. Don’t connect the rod for the handle at this time. In fact, if you removed it to get the left nut off it should be completely out of the door. Connect the plug and test it. Pressing the 7/8 9/0 together to lock the doors and key in your 5 digit code to unlock them. Then unplug it. Since there is no bare wires to contend with, it is not necessary to disconnect the battery for this install.

Put the 10 MM nuts back on. Might want to get someone to hold the handle in place from the outside of the door. It moves a little so they can keep it centered. After the handle is secured, secure the keypad wiring harness inside the door. On your wiring harness you will see 2 white clips. These are to hold it in place inside the door. Believe it or not, there are 2 openings in the very top of the door area. Look all the way to the top and you will see 2 oval holes 11 inches apart. Plug em in. If they are a little off just untape the clips and move them enough to plug in. I had to move the one closest to the handle about 3/8 inch so it would plug in.

Make sure the plug assemble goes behind the window channel DUH! Plug that sucker in and you are about done. Test it again.

With my keypad assembly, the wires were not long enough to secure the plug back to the door with the 2 white clips. I folded the excess wires and taped them together with duct tape. See below.

Now connect the door handle rod to the handle and place the threaded end back on the door lock mechanism and pop the yellow clip back in place. Also, just push the door lock connecting rod onto the lock in the handle.

You are done with the keypad part. Do a final test and put the door back together. Here’s what mine looks like.

SEE ALBUM FOR PHOTO

If you want these instructions without the photos e-mail me.

It took me 3 hours to do this install. It took me 2 hours to get the left nut off. With these instructions you should be able to do this in about 1 hour. The biggest trick is to remove the yellow clip on the door handle connector rod and removing the window channel bolt.

Album of photos at Click here to see album


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2000 Lightning - Red
Superchip CUX2R7
Airaid Filter
ARE II Hard Cover
2" Aim Drop Shackles
G-Tech
Dual 40 Series Flowmasters

2001 IS 300 Lexus

e-mail addr rhampton@mindspring.com

"He who dies with the most toys WINS"



[This message has been edited by ToyMan (edited 07-23-2000).]

 

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this. Looks like a great install. You have our gratitude. Nice piece.

 

ToyMan - You're the man!

------------------
Rick - Hwy_2_L@HotMail.com
Friends don't let Friends drive Chevys
White 00 - Adopted May 3rd 00[*] V1 with Remote[*] Superchip Flipchip CUX2R2[*] Airaid Filter Kit - S&B Big Mouth Filter[*] Magnaflow Custom Catback[*] AIM 2" Drop Shackles[*] Hard Tonneau[*] Bedrug[*] Clear Front Corners[*] Ultra Whites – top and bottom[*] Taillight Covers[*] Lightning Hitch Cover[*] Custom FL Tag[*] Muth Signal Mirrors [*] Eclipse 54410 Receiver, 5962 In-Dash CD Changer[*] MB Quarts - PKC116 Front, DKC116 Rear[*] Alpine MRV-F353 5 Channel [*] Limo Window Tint
Upcoming mods[*] Keypad Entry Handle

 

Hmm, can this be applied to the standard F-150 as well? ToyMan, do you mind if I add a link to this thread from the Tech section?

Steve

 

Wow, Great thread. Exactly why I come here. Two questions? Did the new handle/external piece come in red to match your truck or did you have to paint it and how much were the parts?
Thanks again for a great how to.
noelvm


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99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, MT Streets, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6

 

Steve,

It is my understanding that if you have the remote keyless entry, the wiring will be there for the keyless entry. I did post it on the "OTHER BODY" and "GENERAL DISCUSSION" categories. You can remove them from there and put them where you think they belong.

I was trying to follow Chris Thomas' request to have items like this put on the regular F-150 board.

noelvm

They come already painted. Check Hwy_2_L's post on the previous "keypad" topic and he sheds some light on the appropriate part numbers.

I paid $130 for everything out-the-door.


Toyman

 

Toyman,

NOW THIS IS A PRODUCTIVE THREAD!!!!!!

You deserve a icey cold adult beverge for this. Much appreciated!!!!

I was a little leary of doing this until now......ROCK ON!!! Sorry, streaming KNAC.com today.

Best regards

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Brake Late, Dive Deep

Speedin Bob
'99 Red Lightning #2504 Built 6/17/99
NLOC # 438
13.98 @ 98 mph (Rookie Session)
Latest Mods:
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Mobil One and FilterMag
Airaid w/ Autophysics filter retrofit
Clear Corners & Tails
Bug Shield
Duraliner

 

Thanks!!! Parts came in Friday.Dealer didn't know if wiring harness was in door or not
for keyless entry they weren't much help but YOU SAVED THE DAY. BIG BIG HELP THANKS AGAIN

 

ToyMan

Excellent, excellent.


I have my parts on order and have been worrying about hooking all the wires up.

Thanks for all the photos.



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Jim
jim@jimshaw.cc

Black 00, Swanson Chip (Superchip re-burn is on the way)
super whites, Airaid w/10" Big Mouth filter, chrome wheels
AIM 2" drop shackles, Mobile1 w/FilterMag, clear corners
2000 E320, 1993 Cobra R, 1959 Corvette, 1949 Plymouth Coupe

Looking for a better paying job to support my L

 

Hwy_2_L

Call me when you get back and I will help you with the install. Maybe after a couple more install I can get my I/T (install time) under 1 hour LOL.

Speedin Bob

If I ever run the L at the Brick Yard (J/K), I will stop buy and take you up on that adult drink.

SCREAMIN LIGHTNING

The dealer was not much help except to pull up the parts diagram that indicated that the wiring harness was in the door. I asked about the pin connections and the guy referred me to the service department. I asked the service department if they could install it and they sent me to their alarm guys. The alarm guys said "we don't do that, go see the service department". I guess the old saying applies here "If you want something done right, do it yourself".

DJY

Thanks for initially bringing this topic to the board. Without your post I wouldn't have had a clue about the possibilities of the keypad entry.

Also, the people on the Expedition board deserve some accolades for the their posting on that board. The wiring diagram was a big plus.

 

Hey Ron(ToyMan):

I'm home on Saturday if you need the practice..... Anything to help you out...

Rich

 

ToyMan: Excellent writeup! BTW, the reason the wires weren't long enough to locate back into the same place as before is because you used the door wire loom from an Expedition. Using one from a 2000 F-150 would have been longer because the regular F150 door is longer than an Expedition door by about an inch or so. In any event great job and meticulous attention to detail!

 

roger

I ordered part number YL3Z14A626AA. According to the parts guy this was the one for an F-150. Originally I told him part number XL1Z14A626AA which is the number I got off this board and the parts guy said the parts diagram for an F-150 called for the part number I actually ordered.

Yes it is about 2 inches short of plugging back into the original holes. Oh well! At least it works. I would have been happier if it clipped back into the original holes.

Maybe someone else can come up with the right part number. If not then it will have to be rigged as I have done.

BTW do you happen to know the right part number? If not maybe someone else can shed some light on this. If you saw the earlier post on the keypad issue, I raised the same question before I actually ordered mine.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

ToyMan

More Kudos your way from me. You've saved us all a lot of time bro. I'm in the process of reclaiming my actuator connector that I snipped from "the other" method. The yellow clip tip was a BIG help; I used the curved end of a coat hanger to pull behind the clip and she came right off. Which, made getting a 1/4 Craftsman ratched and socket easy as pie to get the left nut off. Got it done in time for X-files. Your fame will spread from shore to shore.

 

Install is done. It took longer to drink a beer with the neighbor and explain what I was doing than it took to do the install. Thanks for the great "How To" ToyMan

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Rick - Hwy_2_L@HotMail.com
Friends don't let Friends drive Chevys
White 00 - Adopted May 3rd 00[*] V1 with Remote[*] Superchip Flipchip CUX2R2[*] Airaid Filter Kit - S&B Big Mouth Filter[*] Magnaflow Custom Catback[*] AIM 2" Drop Shackles[*] Hard Tonneau[*] Bedrug[*] Clear Front Corners[*] Ultra Whites – top and bottom[*] Taillight Covers[*] Lightning Hitch Cover[*] Custom FL Tag[*] Muth Signal Mirrors [*] Eclipse 54410 Receiver, 5962 In-Dash CD Changer[*] MB Quarts - PKC116 Front, DKC116 Rear[*] Alpine MRV-F353 5 Channel [*] Limo Window Tint [*] Keypad Entry Handle