Everyone,

Here is a write up of the Intercooler electric fan install on my 99 L:

SPAL 6.5" Electric Fan Install for 1999.5 Ford Lightning

Parts Required:
1 - SPAL 6.5" Fan, Pull, Jaycorp Tech #30100402
1 - Cooling Fan Harness w/Relay, Thermostat and Instructions, Jaycorp #195FH
1 - Fan mounting Pin Kit, Jaycorp #30130013
6' - Gray wire, 18awg
6' - Orange wire, 18 awg
3' - Black wire, 18 awg
8" Heat Shrink Tubing
1 - Radio Shack Mini Toggle Switch, SPST rated 10A @ 125VAC, #275-324B
12' Plastic Wire Loom

Total Cost: $135.00

Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Wire cutters/strippers
Dykes w/Cutting Edge
Soldering Iron
Tie Wraps, min 6"
Phillips Screwdriver
6" Crescent wrench

Skill Level:
Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to drill you dash.

Installation Time:
About 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.


Installing the Fan:

Step 1) Raise the front of your Lightning. Be sure to secure in place with JackStands.

Step 2) Remove the 5 plastic Phillips screws holding the rear rubber guard to the lower intercooler bracket. Note, I found it easiest to squeeze the tops of the screws and then lightly unscrew.



Step 3.) Take the 4 Fan mounting pins and cut them to about 2 ½".

Step 4.) Position the fan at the center of the rear intercooler, as far towards the center top as possible. Note, the intercooler is approximately 22.5" wide. The fan is 7" wide. So position it 7 & ¾" from either side.

Step 5.) Insert the 4 mounting pins in the small holes. One pin should be used in each corner of the fan. Now fold down the rubber guard to allow access to the front of the Intercooler. While holding the rear of the pin, or head, put a supplied rubber washer over the pin and then the supplied fastener clip. The Fastener will fit on tight, so you may need to use pliers to completely slide it on and get a tight fit. BE CAREFUL NO TO DENT/BEND THE INTERCOOLER FINS. Connect the fan wiring harness and let lay under the truck.

Step 6.) Disconnect the battery.

Step 7.) OK, we are ready to install the wiring. On the instructions that come with the Jaycorp relay, they recommend that you mount the unit on the inside firewall. I choose to mount it outside in the engine bay, for ease of service. Note, if you install the relay inside the cabin, you will need to run the Constant power and switch wire to the engine bay. If you install in the engine bay, you will need to run the switch and switched power wire to the cabin. An easy point of entry is the large rubber grommet that holds the boost tube.

Step 8.) Mount the relay to the firewall using the supplied screw.



Step 9.) Run the Constant power (yellow) to a constant power source, such as the battery. You will connect the in-line fuse to the yellow wire using the supplied barrel connector. Crimp.



Step 10.) Connect the Red wire (Fan Positive) down to the fan wiring harness. Connect using the supplied barrel connector. Crimp.

Step 11.) Connect the Chasis ground wire from the fan harness to a ground location. Note, there is a good ground point immediately above the Intercooler electric pump. You can identify it by the white plastic insulator. Be careful to not break the insulator. Use the supplied rind connector. Crimp.

Step 12.) This is a good time to warm up the soldering iron. Have a brew, you deserve it.

Step 13.) Solder a 6' extension on to both the switched ignition(use orange) and switch(use gray) wires. Cover with shrink wrap tubing. Run these 2 wires to the back of the engine bay and across to the Boost tube firewall grommet. Insert the 2 wires through the grommet into the cabin. Re-install the grommet if removed.

Step 14.) Enter the cabin and locate the 2 wires. It should appear right above your brake pedal.

Step 15.) Find a location for your switch. I choose to keep it within easy reach of the driver, so I mounted it in the change box, just to the lower right of the steering wheel.



Step 16.) Drill a hole to accommodate the switch location. Test fit the switch. Find a happy position for you. To tighten the switch, you may need to hold it with a crescent wrench.

Step 17.) Connect the gray wire from the engine compartment to one pole on your Radio Shack switch. Connect the orange wire to a switched power source, such as the radio fuse. Note, you can just remove the fuse, insert the wire and re-insert the fuse.

Step 18.) Connect a piece of black wire to a ground source and then solder to the other pole on your Radio Shack switch.

Step 19.) Reconnect the battery. Note, because we connected to a switched power source, you must have the key inserted and turned to the ACC position.

Step 20.) It's time to tie-wrap all wires and cover them with the plastic loom. This will keep the engine compartment "stock" looking and looking good.



Testing the installation:

Step 1) Insert the key and turn to the ACC position. Don't start the truck. Throw the switch. Did the fan come on?? Did nothing happen?? If nothing happened, go back and verify your wiring and that the battery is connected. Troubleshoot until fan operates. If you suspect a bad switch, connect the gray and black wires together.

Step 2) Throw the switch to the off position, verify that the fan stops.


Pros: It moves a lot of air. If you are a racer or sit in a lot of stop and go traffic, this may help prevent lost boost by keeping the intercooler fluids cooler. By using the Jaycorp relay, I think electrical system faults will be avoided. This mod may save a few $$ from doing it yourself. This in conjunction with the electric pump switch that Sal posted may prove to be an excellent combination.

Cons: Why wasn't a fan on the truck from the factory??

thats it....Easy DIY...

Later..


------------------
Brian K
kimmel_brian@prc.com
thedink@ix.netcom.com

99.5 Black - Born 5/17/99

• 13.766 @ 99.59 (8.865 @ 80.67)
• Tinted Windows
• PSP Intake
• Clear Corners
• Autometer "Phantom" Boost Gauge
• SuperChip "FlipChip" TRAC
• Bedrug
• Alpine Audio w/MB Quarts all around
• Tow Package
• Mobil 1

98 Acura 3.0 CL Daily Driver:

 

Brian

Nice job on the How to !!!

Any performance gains ??

Doug

------------------
Picked up Silver 2000 Lightning 2/28/00!!
1st run 13.9 sec 1/4 !!
Best Run 13.7
Carrollton TX
drbdkb@hotmail.com
http://www.SVTLightnings.com
Had 87 Turbo Coupe traded for
92 F150 XLT 302, Put K&N Filter, cat back and Chip on 92 still not enough.
92 is For Sale. $5600.00

Silver 2000 Lightning, FMS 3.73 gears ( Expensive ), PSP 4 Way Chip, PSP Intake, <A HREF="http://www.valentine1.com" TARGET=_blank> Valentine
1</A>, Snuglid, Bedrug, Lighted Ford Logos, Superchip ( Retired ) , and 3m Panther Black nickel tint.

 

BrianK,
Where did you order your fan and relay/install kit from?

 

ZorPrime and all,

check out:
http://jaycorptech.com/cgi-bin/Shop/...ool&category=0

for the parts....

l8r,

------------------
Brian K
kimmel_brian@prc.com
thedink@ix.netcom.com

99.5 Black - Born 5/17/99

• 13.766 @ 99.59 (8.865 @ 80.67)
• Tinted Windows
• PSP Intake
• Clear Corners
• Autometer "Phantom" Boost Gauge
• SuperChip "FlipChip" TRAC
• Bedrug
• Alpine Audio w/MB Quarts all around
• Tow Package
• Mobil 1
• Electric I/C Fan

98 Acura 3.0 CL Daily Driver:

 

This may be a stupid question but that is what this board is here for right? What would be the harm in wiring up dual fans that ran constantly? I mean it would require a lot less work, I was just wondering about the adverse effects.

------------------
00 Black Lightning
No mods yet, just enjoying her stock for now!

 

Jagc,

I will talk to my boss tonight or tomarrow about it. She is in San Diego until weds eve.

About the fans(s). One thing the wiring kit comes with is a thermostat. My orig idea was to have it thermostatically controlled, but the unit that comes with the kit is for screwing into the engine block.

I am pursuing with Summit Racing a external thermostat for just such an idea.

The switch can still be used in a manual override situation.

As far as 2 fans, I agree that it might do twice as much good, but my concern was the surface area that the fans cover. Since 2 would cover 14" of I/C area, would that impede cooling under normal driving if they weren't on??? I dunno if airflow would be effected or not.......So I thought right now, I will play it safe with one. As per the MFR, its best to mount in the middle, high as possible. I would also think that the middle is the ticket.

Again, I had thought it would benefit the strip environment more than the street, but certainly one could have it continuously run. Thats not a problem....

Anyone want to try 2 out, on continuously???



------------------
Brian K
kimmel_brian@prc.com
thedink@ix.netcom.com

99.5 Black - Born 5/17/99

• 13.766 @ 99.59 (8.865 @ 80.67)
• Tinted Windows
• PSP Intake
• Clear Corners
• Autometer "Phantom" Boost Gauge
• SuperChip "FlipChip" TRAC
• Bedrug
• Alpine Audio w/MB Quarts all around
• Tow Package
• Mobil 1
• Electric I/C Fan

98 Acura 3.0 CL Daily Driver:

 

When planning to do this, factor in the cost of a new IC radiator in 1-2 years. The fan may start out held tightly in place, but with all the road vibrations, the fins bend and the plastic straps stretch, and pretty soon it's sawing its way through the core. That's why you'll never see a factory fan that is mounted through the radiator. Seen this happen on several cars, including my own.
It would be well worth the effort to build a sturdy mount that would hold the fan about 3/8" away from the fins.


Mark
'00 Lightning
'79 Corvette

 

Hey Brian, good job on the install and thanks for the instructions. I was wondereing the same thing as Snake, it looks like you can put two fans on it, that would appear to cool the intire area instead of just the middle. Besides cost, is there any draw back in this, also what is the need for the switch, why not have it operate all the time?
On a side note, any posibility of going to the drags this weekend instead of the 25th? I'm planning on going up to Carisle for the big corvette show on the 26th, so I'm not sure if the boss will allow me to do both on the same weekend, something about being a good Dad and family man!! I would really like to see your set up and meet the other L owners in the area. Jeff