Everyone,

I just finished up installing my boost gauge. I hope to have some pics up sometime soon that will accompany the text.

Here are the part #'s and directions for those that may be curious:

Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge Install for 1999.5 Ford Lightning

Parts Required:
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing

Total Cost: $80.00

Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron

Skill Level:
Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.

Installation Time:
1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.


Installing the Gauge:

Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod 17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.

Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top. There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.

Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer gauge pod package.

Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you could also drill a couple large holes.

Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.

Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight plus ¼ turn.

Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the pod.

Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box area.

Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.

Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.

Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install the fuse.

Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This 'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.

Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).

Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.

Testing the installation:

Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show a vacuum.

Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vacuum.

And now the part we have all been waiting for………..

Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!

Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.

Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the ***). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a $1.50 part it sure is hard to find.

Good Luck



------------------
Brian K
99.5 Black
Tinted Windows
PSP Intake
Clear Corners
Boost Gauge, Chip & Bedrug Coming Soon

93 Black Daily Driver:
Bolt ons & Faded Paint

00 Xterra
School Bus Yellow

Ibanez Jem777FP
Its just cool

 

Brian, Thanks for the info; wondering what your new boost guage indicates w/ the PSP filter. Since installing the filter, my stock guage needle is in danger of breaking off (I'm guessing 12-13 lbs.)!

------------------
99.5 White Lightning.
#3299, Built 8/5;
Snuglid, Bedrug, PSP filter, window tint(limo back, 70% sides).

 

safdfas

 

<--- Ibanez 1990 Saber. I don't play as much as I would like, but she is Metallic Blue, ya know that blue/purple, almost mystic color. I love Metallic Blue! Can you tell

 

Matching Fender Squire Stratocaster and P-Bass. White on black, Strat has blond fret board and the P-Bass has a cherry fret board.

Justen,

When I start the truck, and when idling, my boost gauge lurks at the bottom and doesn't really move much at all. When I start to give her a bit of gas, then it starts to climb toward the boost side of the gauge. At WOT, it flies to the top and vibrates from hitting the stop. Under moderate to low load, the gauge won't really do much, but when she's winding up slowly, it will creep up the scale.

------------------
Chuck 'Wyldman' Shelton
wyldman@houston.rr.com
Black 99.5 Lightning Build # 1273, DOB 5-14-99, NLOC #315
Best run to date 13.16 @104.8
CD Changer; Tow Pkg.; Lojack; Sal's custom nitrous chip; G-Tech/Pro; SnugLid; BedRug; Invinca-Shield, full kit; NOS KIT 100 hp shot (currently); Clear and smoke Lexan fog light covers; 3M Ti Window Tint; Bel radar detector (shouldn't be an accessory); PowerStack cone filter (a.k.a. supercharger waker upper); American Auto Designs ram air hood; Cal-Tracs traction bars; Bassani headers, yow!

 

Burnout101:The manifold stays under a vacuum until you give it 1/2 to 3/4(or more )throttle at which time the supercharger pressurizes the manifold and shows up as boost on the gauge. The roots type 'charger is a positive displacement pump so for every turn of the blade XXX amount of air is compressed. The manifold isn't constantly pressurized becaused it is recirculated in the 'charger until sufficient throttle demand and then the wastegate allows it to pressurize the manifold.

------------------
Red 99.5 Lightning,
#0975,
Born 5/6/99...Adopted 5/27/99
Chipped w/SuperChip Flipchip chip,
PSP Filter(track untested),
Water Wetter,
Mobil 1,
Foglamp Covers,
13.573@101.08

 

Brian:

Do you have any pictures of the finished install? (like I need another project)...


------------------
Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. Super Chip. K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, clear corners, tow package, cd changer, cover, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 10" MTX 200w subs. 5-channel 300w Clarion amp., Polk Audio 3-way, 130w DX 7's, Muth signal mirrors, etc. Build #2755
TampaSVT@Tampabay.rr.com

http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tampasvt/images/Light21.jpg
1999.5 Expedition XLT

 

Thx a bunch for this great writeup Brian! Excellent. This is one of the first things that I am going to do when it warms up a bit up here.

Paul G.

 

Brian,

I'd like to capture your instructions for posterity on the NLOC web site's How To section. I'll only do so with your permission, however.

Thanks!


------------------
Later!
Jeff S.
President, National Lightning Owners Club - http://nloc.org
SVT Lightning #74 in '95
11.92@115.2 on radials, driven daily