Please keep us (me) udpated, as my smog pump just went, too. I want to do the same thing you do on a '95 and am deciding between trying to gut the pump and re-install and using a 'stang elimination pully (may require shorter belt). I won't be at it for a week or two, but any input/advice from your experience would be a huge help!
PS--do our smog pumps have any electrical connections? I don't think so, but I'm not totally sure.
I'll keep this topic updated.
I have had expirience with this before on my 86 Mustang Gt. I siezed the pump while cleaning engine components during a complete engine rebuild. I wussed out and just got a new one($90). A buddy I used to work with has a very hi-po 93 Stang 5.0L and used to use the eliminator pulley I currently have. He now has no air pump eliminator. He said he had to buy a mess of Ford serp belts until he got one that was right. I'd like to avoid buying a load of belts.
The Mustang pulley is smaller than the truck, but I might be able to swap the pullies. The bracket the pully is on is cast aluminum- but rugged-so I cant just weld something on if it doesn't fit just right.
Not sure about the electrical connections. If the pump is gone there is alot of diverter tubes and valves and crap that can be canned. And I can finally plug that finger sized hole in my exhaust in between the 2 cats.
FWIW, your cats rely on getting air from your smog pump. If you remove your smog pump, you should remove your cats, too. If you don't, they won't get hot enough to do their job, and the end result will be them becoming clogged, blocking your exhaust. There really aren't any performance advantages to removing the smog pump. It's purely an appearance issue.
Yeah, I heard that about the cats. Would this still be a problem for aftermarket high-flow cats? For example, I didn't think that the bassani high-flow Y pipe w/cat had "pre-cats," heaters, whatever (designed to heat up the cat). Just curious, as they are going in relatively soon.
Oh yeah, I know you only gain 1/2 hp or so from removing/gutting the pump, I'm just after a solution that's cheaper than replacement--I don't want to buy a pump from the junkyard, and the dealer wants $250 (!). Are there other places to go for on OEM one?
Hi flow cats won't suffer as quickly, but they will suffer. Your exhaust will end up being richer, and unburned fuel causes a reaction with the catalyst (sp?) in the cat, and causes it to melt together, clogging the exhaust. This is accelerated because with no pump, you're not supplying the extra air into the cat, which supplies oxygen, and thus raises the temp. Cats don't do squat below 750 degrees. So, the combination of a richer exhaust and cooler running cats eventually equal a clogged exhaust. If you elect to do this, you need to remove your EGR valve as well, because the EGR cools the combustion chamber, and eventually the exhaust. You will need to be running as hot as you can. If you are sold on removing your pump, I strongly suggest that you use an off road exhaust without any cats. It's much easier, and gives you less to worry about.
Gotcha. Thanks for the info. I think I could run a system without cats, as we have no emissions laws where I live, but I'm not totally sure about going sans cats. Looks like I might just shell out for a new pump. At least I know it'll bolt right on.
Yes, my plan is for shorty headers, 3" y-pipe, one gutted cat or hi-flow cat(2way,not 3way or air injected), then a 1 to 2 muffler w/ rear exit tails. And No pump. (aka offroad exhaust). State emission laws say I have to have a cat, whether it works or not isn't mentioned in the laws, hehehe
Or, if it is too big of a project I might just fix the tube that is broken.
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