I've been having intermittent "issues" with my old truck.

I'm thinking fuel pump, and want a new module in there.

It looks like a steel tank, aft axle, up on top of the spare tire.


I'm a little bit confused about all the things I need to fix while the tank is off the truck. I guess the fuel pump module is different from teh sending unit?

Since it has 2 tanks, is there other parts that would be smart to replace while I have it all tore apart?

I was looking at some info online that says it's easier just to lift the bed...

Not in my case, since I have a camper top and bed liner, but it's got me wondering-

How big of a job is this going to be, to drop the tank and get things reliable in the dual tank fuel supply dept. for the next 10 years or so...

 

fuel filter??

 

Only about 7000 miles on the fuel filter.

 

Mileage is irrelevant. If u change filter and drive on low fuel level sucking trash out of bottom of tank or if you pump trash into your tank, mileage is irrelevant.

 

Get a fuel pressure gauge and actually test the pressure at the fuel rail (10 minutes). Your problem may not be related to the fuel pump at all.
Best to test things and identify the problem before throwing parts at it - that route gets expensive and frustrating real fast.

 

Thanks for the replies guys-


To add a little more info, the first time it cut out on me, I was on the rear tank, and when I switched to the front tank it started running good again. When I switched back to rear tank it showed EMPTY, and before was showing 1/4 tank.

So, I did suck all the crap out of the tank due to the gauge "sticking"...

I ordered a fuel filter and wrench, and will change the filter myself, but am still interested in putting a new strainer/fuel pump module in the tank.

I live in the desert and the truck sat in the sun for about 5 years after dad died, and mom had her stroke.

When I got the truck running again, I discovered that someone had somehow siphoned all the gas from both tanks. (I thought there was a stop or something in there to prevent that???)

Anyway, I just added some fuel, did basic tune up and has ran good for the past 3 years.

I know "throwing parts at it" isn't the smartest way to maintain a vehicle, but I see it more as preventive maintenance even if the initial problem persists...

What is the average life of a fuel pump in a mid 90's ford anyway?

I had to do a similar job on a '97 lincoln. It started cutting out and soon after left me stranded on the side of the road. The fuel pump was still working, and it took me a while to figure it out (fuel pressure gauge would have been useful) but the module had a crack and was losing pressure.


I will eventually need to drop that rear tank and change the strainer/pump/module since I plan to drive it 'till I die, a loooooong time and many many miles from now...

 

Gas could have evaporated over 5 years (and left some residue behind). It's only on tv (Mcgyver?) that gas is still ready to go 5 years later. It wouldn't have been much good for driving with after that long.
That said, a new filter every few months for a while would be a good idea. You don't want any crap getting up into your fuel rail and injectors.
You will also want to check the wiring (especially from the pump over to the frame) for a bad wire.

The pump and check valves are all one unit. They usually come with a strainer and then the sender bolts on the side of the module - sometimes included, sometimes not. You have to ask.
The life of a pump seems to be directly related to it's cost. The $99 cheapies are a crapshoot, could go for years, or months. Most people report having to change them again in a couple of years.
The Motorcraft pumps are very pricey in comparison, but the quality level seems to be there, most of these old trucks are still running on their original equipment pumps 20 years later - so if you didn't know if you'd be keeping the truck for more than a year or so, the cheap version might be worth a shot but if you're hoping to get another 20 years out of the old girl, might be better to step things up a bit.
Just a side note, the few OEM modules I've pulled apart had Walbro pumps in them - Ford had them making the electrical pump part of the module for them - so also a good name to look for.

As far as dropping the tank goes, there's just a few bolts holding the lower straps on. The rear tank has to come out through the bottom. If you have a trailer hitch, it will likely have to come off (ditto the spare tire of course). After that it's pretty straightforward - the lines can be a problem to unhook sometimes - suggest you get the metal tool and the plastic things - you just never know which one will work better.

 

Hey there, 1995XLT-

Thanks for the great reply.


I just replaced the fuel filter, it's kinda hard removing the fuel line on the back side of the filter. It's tight quarters up in there, but happen to have a perfectly shaped tiny crow bent pry bar, to "help" if off of there.

I've driven the truck over 12,000 miles since it sat so long, and this will be the 3rd filter change.

It seems to cut out only when running on the rear tank. Front tank has been running fine all weekend.

 

There are 2 possibilities to consider given the situation. 1 would be that there's a problem with the rear pump. The other would be a problem with the check valves in the front tank. When a pump is not being used because you're using the other one, the dormant pump seals itself with check valves.
Which sounds confusing I know, but what can happen is that if the check valve in the front tank isn't sealing (when not in use) then the rear pump can't build pressure because the pressure is bleeding off into the front tank.
You wouldn't notice that when running on the front tank of course because the check valve in the front tank is wide open because you're pumping fuel through it.
The way to identify that is if you get 'cross filling' - that's when you're running on one tank and the other tank starts filling up. So if the front tank is full and you run it on the rear tank and the front starts overflowing, you have a cross filling situation which means there is a problem with one of the check valves in the tank that's overflowing.
No cross filling would mean that the rear pump just isn't producing enough pressure.
Generally speaking.

The thing about all that is that sometimes the pump that seems to have a problem will be fine and the problem is actually in the pump module which seems to be fine.

 

Update-

No cross filling, and no malfunctions running on front tank only.

 

Worth crawling under there with a flashlight and inspecting the wiring real close to the rear tank (it's at the front) before you drop the tank.
Might be a faulty module, but also inspect your tank real good for rust. If it's starting to look bad, it's probably a good idea to change that at the same time.
Since you're not in a hurry, I'd suggest keeping an eye out for someone parting one out. You could find a fairly new tank with a good pump for a very reasonable price. Around here, they often come up for 75 to 100 for the whole works.

 

I finally got the rear tank dropped out, and the pump module changed.

It works-