So I pulled the computer this weekend just to have a peek at it. I didnt really see any burnt areas as i was suspecting but i am not a circuit board guru. I have included pictures of the pcm. Can anyone tell me if it looks good or not? A couple of areas, specifically around the top green capacitor(?) and the barrel shaped thing to the right of it had some verdigree on it or green corrosion if you will. I dont know how much this would affect anything.
Other than that i tested the 4wd switch. According to the document I found to test this switch(http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...624-no-go.html) I did have some anomalies. First in TB4 the question is does voltage fluctuate when shifting from 4x2 to 4x4? For me the answer is yes. At first it was a couple of volts. I thought ok good sort of. I found the problem (pcm) which is why i pulled the pcm. But as the pictures show, i dont see a whole lot wrong. So i tried it again. It now just fluctuates a few tenths of a volt and comes back to 0. It real quick. The other issue i must say is that i had to test with shifting from 4h to n to 4l because i have a hard time getting the driveline or tcase to unlock if you will to shift back to 2wd. I have to drive forwards and backwards to get it to shift.
Anyways on to the next step. TB7. Does voltage read at least 2 volts? I have 1.9 thats it. It says at least so i think its good.
TB5. I tested the switch it tested good. I even took it out of the case and tested it. When you push the ball in i have continuity. With it out i have no continuity. I think its good.
TB8. I kind of got stuck here because i couldnt quite get the meter to show correctly. I read up on the manual and i think i have it figured out. So i will see what i find next but I dont know what else to do.
After pulling the PCM and reinstalling it i did not get a chance to drive it and re-pull codes. SO i dont know if the 633 is still there or not. I still do not understand why a 633 would exist as i have no electric tcase. It is manual all the way and every shift i made the correct indicator light illuminates.
All i know is to test the TPS again, the MLPS which I did test but i left my notes at home. I did test the VSS also but once again do not have my notes. I have looked at the PSOM and that looks great. I switched it with another PSOM i had from upgrading to a tach and the same problem came up. So other than testing the map sensor when i get a vacuum pump I will have to move into dropping the pan. Trying to think back, i did the trany flush and filter change as i mentioned earlier in this thread and i believe that after that is when the problems began. I cant quite remember but i also want to check what type of filter is in there since the manual shows two different ones for 4x2 and 4x4. I dont have very smart parts counter people around here and at the time i didnt know any better. Sorry for the long book but i am trying to be thorough here as much as i can be. I really need this fixed.
Any one have any suggestions?

 

I spent this weekend testing out the MLPS just to start somewhere since thinking that the transmission isnt shifting by itself. I am thinking that perhaps the signal to shift isnt making it to the PCM. So i began testing things in accordance with the Pinpoint test D ( http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/man...j/stj71a20.htm ).
Test D1- Dont have an alignment tool. Couldnt find anyone who sells one. I didnt call the local ford dealership
Test D2- Connect a volt-ohmmeter positive test lead to TR sensor circuit and negative test lead to Signal Return circuit of transmission harness connector. Did this through Pin 3 and pin 2. I got within the required voltage.
Test D3-

• Measure resistance between test pin 46 at Breakout Box and signal return circuit at TR sensor harness connector.
• Measure resistance between test pin 30 at Breakout Box and TR sensor circuit at TR sensor harness connector.

Here is where I began my long road to nowhere. Pin 46 was fine. However Pin 30 had an open in it. So i traced it back to the connector that is located below the Master Cylinder and disconnected it. I tested Pin 30 which is the LB/Y wire that is the range sensor to PCM from that connector to the connector on the MLPS. Both connectors were disconnected. No Open. Great. So i tested the male end of the connector under the MC up to the PCM ( disconnected). No open. Great. So no breaks in the wire itself. I reconnected the PCM and tested from the male end of the connector under the MC and i have an open. At this point i was not knowing where else to go so i moved onto D4.

D4- Is each resistance greater than 10K ohms? No. Once again pin 30 was not within specs.
D5- I got a bit confused here since i dont have the MLPS tester so i was not too sure of what wire to probe. So I used Pin 2 and 3 for the test. For resistance in Park I got 4184, No volts
Reverse- 1447 Resistance, no volts
Neutral- 1177, no volts
Drive- 4086, no volts
2- 4059, no volts
1- For some reason couldnt get it to stay in first. It wouldnt physically shift to this detent.

So I got a new MLPS since my reverse lights work when they want to anyways even after buying a new Ford part from Rockauto last year. I got a duralast from autozone. Upon looking at it, the Ford emblem and Part number were worn off with perhaps a dremel but otherwise looked exactly like my Ford Part. The manager said it is not the first time he has seen that. So i tested it in the truck.
Park- Resist-4240, Volts 4.41
Reverse- Resist 2052, Volts 3.61
Neutral- Resist 1161, Volts 2.85
Drive- Resist 673, Volts 2.10
Second- Resist 1.565 M Ohms?, Volts 1.38
First- Couldnt get it in gear.

So I got the proper volts. I am not sure what to think about the resistance values. The yes/No criteria calls for replacing the MLPS if not within spec. I wasnt able to pull codes afterwards, Ran out of time. I also was not able to retest Pin 30 to see if the open still exists.

The problem still persists. At first i thought i got it but as soon as the truck warmed up, the problem came back. So I am quite frustrated. I can not keep spending weekends chasing this around. I do not understand why i have the 633 code and now I dont know why I have the Open on Pin 30. I am not an electrical genius so perhaps the problem is right in front of my face.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

Shooting in the dark here but 2 possibly useful things come to mind. 1 is that if the filter on an E4OD falls out onto the bottom of the pan it can cause all kinds of problems. You can actually get a clip to hold them up. You said you did a tranny service and were unsure about the filter so...
Other thing worth looking at as far as getting it in the right gear is that there are 2 torx screws at the back of the shift tube on the column that often get loose and make the manual shifting part get real sloppy. If you lie on the floor and look up you can get at them from there. Worth a peek.
Doesn't help with your electrical problems but.