EGR Vacuum hose routing
#1
EGR Vacuum hose routing
I'm redoing the vacuum lines on my 92 F150 5.0L EFI. I'm using 4mm silicone vacuum hose So far, so good.
However, I'm looking at the vacuum supply side of the EGR solenoid and see that the hose goes all the way around the back of the engine to a tee near the vacuum canister (red lines). If this same line comes off the intake vacuum tee on the top of the engine, why go to the trouble of routing what must be 8 feet of hose, when the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) line comes off the same main vacuum tee and is only a few inches away?
Can anyone see a downside of simply inserting a tee in the FPR line and running a short line to the EGR solenoid? I can't.
TIA,
Chuck
However, I'm looking at the vacuum supply side of the EGR solenoid and see that the hose goes all the way around the back of the engine to a tee near the vacuum canister (red lines). If this same line comes off the intake vacuum tee on the top of the engine, why go to the trouble of routing what must be 8 feet of hose, when the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) line comes off the same main vacuum tee and is only a few inches away?
Can anyone see a downside of simply inserting a tee in the FPR line and running a short line to the EGR solenoid? I can't.
TIA,
Chuck
Last edited by Chuck(G); 04-29-2015 at 07:41 PM.
#2
EGR Vacuum Hose
not sure, but i have been working on same type project with my 88, and if my memory serves me right, the "Green" EGR Vacuum Line goes around the back of the engine then to the TAB Solenoid mounted next to the Coil on my truck. I am have trouble with vacuum to the EGR, and pretty sure it's vacuum source is the TAB Solenoid. I'm not a Mechanic, but i would verify the origination of the EGR vacuum source on your engine before re-routing hose to another vacuum source.
#3
No problem with the green side; at the solenoid valve, the colors are green and red--and the line does in fact go around the engine and tee into the red line coming from the manifold tee going to the vacuum canister.
You can see the hood sticker diagram here:
The funny thing is that when I pulled the red tubing from in back of the engine, I found that some monkey (not me) had squeezed one red line under a bolt head.
You can see the hood sticker diagram here:
The funny thing is that when I pulled the red tubing from in back of the engine, I found that some monkey (not me) had squeezed one red line under a bolt head.
#4
For what it's worth, I just finished the replacement. 4mm silicone vacuum hose with 1/2" loom (3/8" loom would probably work but is a very tight fit). The "shortcut" I described above works fine.
I used colored vinyl tape (electrician's tape) on the loom to identify the lines and cinched each hose end with a 4" colored cable tie corresponding to the diagram above.
While puttering around, I noticed that 1/4" PVC drip irrigation line looks like it might also work--it's certainly heavier than the OEM PVC vacuum hose. I might have tried it, but I already had the silicone stuff.
Oh, and on my '92, there's a coupler near the firewall and one of the hoses is one color (red) on one side and another (black) on the other side. So be careful about assuming that a color means something.
I used colored vinyl tape (electrician's tape) on the loom to identify the lines and cinched each hose end with a 4" colored cable tie corresponding to the diagram above.
While puttering around, I noticed that 1/4" PVC drip irrigation line looks like it might also work--it's certainly heavier than the OEM PVC vacuum hose. I might have tried it, but I already had the silicone stuff.
Oh, and on my '92, there's a coupler near the firewall and one of the hoses is one color (red) on one side and another (black) on the other side. So be careful about assuming that a color means something.
Last edited by Chuck(G); 04-30-2015 at 09:12 PM.
#6
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#8
Yeah--I was using the hood sticker for reference. You can imagine my confusion when I saw a green and a black vacuum hose on the EGR solenoid valve. It wasn't until I followed the black line back to the coupling that I figured out what was going on.
I have a completely unrelated question that someone with a 92 might be able to answer. The PCV vent uses about a 1/2" rigid PVC tube to feed back into the air cleaner box on the driver's side. The box end of the tube just is stuck into a hole in the side of the airbox. Was there originally supposed to be a rubber grommet on the airbox holding the tube?
I have a completely unrelated question that someone with a 92 might be able to answer. The PCV vent uses about a 1/2" rigid PVC tube to feed back into the air cleaner box on the driver's side. The box end of the tube just is stuck into a hole in the side of the airbox. Was there originally supposed to be a rubber grommet on the airbox holding the tube?
#10
Steve, thanks for the diagrams. By "feed back", I was describing the general hookup, not necessarily the air flow direction. But you get my drift--and you've given an answer to my question.
If I look at the first sheet, and the description in the upper-left corner, I see that the "crankcase vent connector and hose assembly 6C324" is connected to the air filter box via some sort of clip or catch on the box. I don't have that--what I have is an unadorned hole perhaps an inch in diameter on the air filter box.
My question is basically "what goes in the hole to seal the box around the end of the right-angle fitting on 6C324? Is there a rubber grommet in some cases? Or has my truck simply lost a part somewhere?
If I look at the first sheet, and the description in the upper-left corner, I see that the "crankcase vent connector and hose assembly 6C324" is connected to the air filter box via some sort of clip or catch on the box. I don't have that--what I have is an unadorned hole perhaps an inch in diameter on the air filter box.
My question is basically "what goes in the hole to seal the box around the end of the right-angle fitting on 6C324? Is there a rubber grommet in some cases? Or has my truck simply lost a part somewhere?
#14
Yup--thanks-- went to the local parts place, got a new filter and a clip (with the retaining"ears") for less than $5. Took minutes to install after vacuuming out the mouse droppings from the air box. Replaced the air filter while I was it.
I noted that only two of the bolts holding the airbox lid on were present and they didn't engage the threads in the bottom part. I secured the lid with a few zip ties--that should hold it together for now.
I wonder if a few plastic bumper clips/"rivets" might do for a permanent solution.
I noted that only two of the bolts holding the airbox lid on were present and they didn't engage the threads in the bottom part. I secured the lid with a few zip ties--that should hold it together for now.
I wonder if a few plastic bumper clips/"rivets" might do for a permanent solution.
Last edited by Chuck(G); 05-10-2015 at 03:51 PM.