disclaimer: this is an offroad swap not ment for on road use

to start off i for a 1990 ford f150 4.9 t18 3.55 2weel drive
my mods before this swap consist of
removed stock cats and replaced them with 1 magniflow 2 into 1 cat and strait 2.5 after with no muffler
i re gasketed the motor last year and installed a crower 19211 camshaft and new lifters
i put a set of 31x10.5s
replaced the open with a factory posi unit

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i work for napa so my pricing will b diffrent but if u search the web u can find stuff fo the same as what i payed

problem:sputtering at times running rich then running lean back fires. runs good some days others not so much
some days stalls on start up

tryed: testing all sensors replaced computor swapped all injectors temp sensor map idle air throttle position air charge
fpr egr valve and sensor nothing changed got tired fo the problem and no adjustablility

my fix: carb and duraspark. i already had an autolite 2100 off of my 69 ford falcon. got an offy 4 barrel and an adaptor
it took me by myself a weekend messing around to get it dun n i was able to drive to work on monday

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my parts list:
offy intake - $260 summit
return style fuel pressure regulator - $35 summit
pressure gauge - $20 summit
gauge manifold - $6 summit
9 inch air filter assembly - $14 summit
double throttle return spring - $4 summit
carb rebuild kit - $20 napa
fuel filter - $3 napa
manual choke kit - $10 napa
inline fuel pump - $36 napa
reman distributor - $44 napa
rotor - $2 napa
cap - $7 napa
cap adaptor - $7 napa
blue gromet mondual - $20 napa
2 to 4 barrel adaptor - $14 napa
hose clamps - $3 napa
3/8 fuel hose - $15 napa
5/16 fuel hose - $5 napa
3/8 fuel line adaptor - $8 napa
5/16 fuel line adaptor - $7 napa
3/8 fuel clip - $2 napa
5/16 fuel clip - $2 napa
3/8 barbed compression fitting - $8 napa
5/16 barbed compression fitting - $7 napa
3/8 vac hose - $3 napa
vac cap kit - $2 napa
intake/exhaust gasket - $15 napa
misc fittings - $20 hardware store
vac tree, throttle bracket, wire harness - $20 junk yard

total - around $600

start off by removing the air box a duct work then move to the egr linkage and upper intake. once removed
disconect fuel lines and i undid the wiring harnness from the truck and disconected the vac lines
and pulled the lower as an assembley. then i removed the vac switches from the valve cover.
after all this is out of ur way u can grind down a nub on the front of the rear manifold to alow the
carb intake to sit flush on the head.after thats compleat cut the egr tube close to the manifold but
be sure to give ur self enought room to pinch and weld the pipe shut. when this is compleat u caqn remove
the last few bolts that are holding the manifolds on and remove the old gasket.

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how ur ready to drop on that offy intake.i spary the gasket with copper just for added insurance
then i put the bolts in the manifolds get them in place and start all the bottem bolts set the intake
on and put one bolt at each end and hand tighten till i get the rest in. in my application i needed to tie off
the second cyl shared bolt so i replaced it with a 3/8 by 16 all thread the manifold washed and a nut

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then once its on and torqued down i plugged the rear vac port and put a ford vac tree in the front
then i pluged in the heater vac line pcv valve and the booster. i bolted the rebuilt carb to the spacer
and bolted the assembly down to the manifold. i used one of the retaining bolts for the ground strap
then i ran my stock throttle linkage to the carbwith braket and measured for a spacer. turns out i had
a perfect spacer in my junk drawer bolted that up and then ran my choke.

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then i had to find a place for my fpr n i figuerd might as well use what i got and made an aluminum
braket out of an old stop sign and made it fit ware the old vac switches went on the valve cover

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now i had to plumb the fuel system so i took my 3/8 and 5/16 steel fuel line adaptors and gave em roughly a
90 degree bend ran the 5/16 right to the return on the regulator and the 3/8 to my inline pump then to the
regulator. after i came out of the reg to the pressure manifold then to the carb

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now that the fuel/air delivery is done now i need spark. so i got a wiring harness out of a duraspark
4.9 and the engine harness connectors from a efi ford and the wire colors were the same so i connected
the oil pressure water temp and pulled the switched hot out of my factory harness to make it plug and
play not cutting my factory harness. now i sodered all my connections and heat shring. this is what i
came up with

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im still usiing my tfi coil since its a new msd 1. so i swaped the canister connector for the tfi one.
my truck dont have a factory tach in the cluster n i got an aftermaket 1 so i just ran a jumper off the coil to it
then i mounted my modual up on the fender next to ware my air box went i ran the white wire around the core
support to the selonoid

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once this was dun i got the engine to top dead center and pulled the old distributor out and dropped the
new in then i pulled my plugs (im running motorcraft platinums) and gapped em at 54 thousands. and
reconnected my plug wires and hooked up my wiring harness. i then ran the hot inside into a fuse and hooked
the other end into the empty space in the fuse pannel (they call to put a oil pressure switch in to cut
the fuel off if it stalls i just havent gotten to it yet)

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i left the computor hooked up ad i use the stock pump to prime the lines and the inline to run the truck
now here comes the fun part. prime up the carb and get ur timing light handy. start it up i set the
timeing to 10 degrees then put a vac gauge up and adjusted the carb to highest vacuum. with my cam i got
20 psi then i went back and put the timing in at 15 16 degrees.

ive run the truck 2 weeks now made a few little tweeks to the carb she runs perfect. started right up
on the 20 degree day wee had.im getting better gas milage i got more power engine is peppyer. it will
out run an efi anyday of the week

for people that live in cold areas if u make a plate for the bottem of the intake ware the old style
exhaust manifold would bolt to and put 2 5/8 pipes into it seal it to the bottem and hook a heater
hose to it to warm the intake. i may do that in the future but we will see

next time i fill up i will get my axact gas mileage. and i will post a start up and run video

any questions on anything let me know im be more then happy to help u out

 

i see the pics didnt post so see if this work

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=bacee18ca1

 

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