92 F150 5.0 Help - wife is afraid
#1
92 F150 5.0 Help - wife is afraid
We've just had some work done on the 92 that my wife drives. It's a 5.0 V8 automatic 2wd. It's had a tune-up, throttle body and EGR replacement. When we went to pick the truck up my wife drove to the end of the mechanics drive and stopped. When traffic was clear she pulled onto the road but took her foot off the gas for a second. When she did the truck stalled and cut off. Kinda like a back pressure thing. She started it back up and pulled back onto the road once again and same thing. It's like if you give it some gas but let off it has some kind of burp and cuts off. If you give it gas and keep it steady it's fine. It's only done this 3 or 4 times but she won't drive it if there's a chance it will happen and she gets wrecked. It didn't do it before we had the above work done. We also noticed it didn't seem to have as much power as before the work was done. The mechanic said to drive it 100 miles to give the computer time to adjust itself after the battery was disconnected. My wife was in tears as she needs to drive this truck in her landscape/gardening business.
I also noticed that the temp gauge isn't reading at it's normal level which is usually 1/4 from the left. It's hugging the left line at about the 1/8 mark except when I pulled into Advanced Auto to show the guy and wouldn't you know it , it went to the 1/4 mark. I have smelled a little antifreeze and saw a few drops leaking around one of the hose clamps.
So with all this being said could the small leak cause the temp gauge not to work properly and maybe the sensor send the computer wrong info that would cause the truck to stall out? Does the computer really average data on driving style? Please, we need your opinions.
Thanks,
Gery
I also noticed that the temp gauge isn't reading at it's normal level which is usually 1/4 from the left. It's hugging the left line at about the 1/8 mark except when I pulled into Advanced Auto to show the guy and wouldn't you know it , it went to the 1/4 mark. I have smelled a little antifreeze and saw a few drops leaking around one of the hose clamps.
So with all this being said could the small leak cause the temp gauge not to work properly and maybe the sensor send the computer wrong info that would cause the truck to stall out? Does the computer really average data on driving style? Please, we need your opinions.
Thanks,
Gery
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Thanks for the responses guys. Greatly appreciated. I've got the receipt for the work done. It has listed:
egr valve (egr 1062)
dpfe (egr 102)
egr vacuum solenoid (egr 285)
the day we had the work done and the truck cut off the shop cleaned the throttle body to see if that was the issue. It wasn't replaced as I thought , only cleaned. This work was done because the check engine light came on so we took it in to see what the problem was.
NOW: the check engine light went off but the truck runs rough at speed and gets terrible gas mileage. I unhooked the vacum line to the egr and plugged the line and the end on the valve and now the truck runs great like it's supposed to but the check engine light is back on naturally. So with what has been replaced why would the truck run so rough when it's all hooked up and run great when disconnected?
egr valve (egr 1062)
dpfe (egr 102)
egr vacuum solenoid (egr 285)
the day we had the work done and the truck cut off the shop cleaned the throttle body to see if that was the issue. It wasn't replaced as I thought , only cleaned. This work was done because the check engine light came on so we took it in to see what the problem was.
NOW: the check engine light went off but the truck runs rough at speed and gets terrible gas mileage. I unhooked the vacum line to the egr and plugged the line and the end on the valve and now the truck runs great like it's supposed to but the check engine light is back on naturally. So with what has been replaced why would the truck run so rough when it's all hooked up and run great when disconnected?
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#9
For an update, I took the truck back to the mechanic and they replaced the regulator feeling that would be the most likely culprit. He said if that didn't fix the problem then it would be the computer. The new regulator seemed slightly better but the truck cut off again twice while the mechanic test drove it. After that it didn't cut off anymore but still didn't seem to be completely fixed so I disconnected the line to the EGR and plugged up both ends again and the truck runs like a charm. The check engine light stays on but I told wife to make sure it had plenty of oil and water and she should be fine. We can periodically hook the line back up to check for any other codes if need be.
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Thanks again for the responses guys. The wife is very pleased with the way the truck drives with the EGR line disconnected. The only thing left according to the mechanic is the computer. We're going to drive it like it is for now. Not ready to spend the $$$ just to make that code go away.
#14
Your "mechanic" is an idiot, a liar and a thief. He broke it, it's his responsibility to fix it -- on his dime. The new EGR is not causing your problems unless the idiot re-installed it really, really wrong, which is still his problem to fix.
Take it somewhere else. Have them fix it. Hand the idiot the bill and if he refuses drag his useless *** into small claims court.
Take it somewhere else. Have them fix it. Hand the idiot the bill and if he refuses drag his useless *** into small claims court.
#15
Thanks again for the responses guys. The wife is very pleased with the way the truck drives with the EGR line disconnected. The only thing left according to the mechanic is the computer. We're going to drive it like it is for now. Not ready to spend the $$$ just to make that code go away.
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