ok heres whats goin on. the yesterday my truck started charging at 18 volts so i hurried home i was 30 miles away get home park it hop in my jeep n order a new motorcraft alternator figure might aswell just replace the whole thing. so a guy about 15 miles away "30 mile round trip" had a 8.8 with 3.08 gears exactly what ive been looking for says if i come today he will sell it to me for $100 so i had to take her out i go there no problems seemed to be charging at around 16 volts got there got the rear got 1/4 of the way back it started charging at 18 volts then it started skippin and hoppin and boggin out id have to keep workin the throttle to keep it from stalling then it catch and be good for a mile or so and do it again did it about 6 times but i finaly made it home. when its started doing that the check engine light came on i forget how to check it with out the tester. also i checked the distributer cap looked good so i had the old cap sittin on the shelf and threw that one on went around the block "4 miles"and it did it again so its not that.

also when i was able to drive without it compleatly bogging down it still felt like it was bogging a little almost like a miss but not a miss

im hoping its because of the alternator and battery

 

The local O'Reilly's here now has a code reader that works on OBD1/EEC. Last time I was over there, they were reading out a 94 Ranger.

Can you get the caps off the battery? After overcharging that much it probably needs some water.

 

yea ill look tomarrow. and down in the jersey shore theres no oriellys we have comercials but the closest one is up by new york i am at the compleat oppisite end. my uncles an ase mechanic im goin to see if i can steal his reader tomarrow.

just my luck i was tellin my boss at work the otherday how great the truck is and how i have no problems with it and then this happens

 

You don't need a reader. Google search on how to read obd1 codes, all you need is a small piece of wire, a paper clip even.

 

yea i know how i just forget what terminal but all i got to do is drive a mile down the road and i got a tester sucks im workin so much i dont have much time right now to do much

 

Autozone is the same as Oreillys from what I can gather.

The OBD1 tester I have does the same thing as counting the blinks by grounding the single pigtail that is next to the four or so pin connector.

Adrianspeeder

 

yea the snap on one my uncle got gives codes and what the code means ofcoarse i already got a list of codes couldnt get ahold of him n had overtime so hopfully tomarrow i can get workin on it i like the jeep but i need my ford

 

Single gray terminal separate from the rest of the tester, ground it out.
If you wanna fix the truck, take the ten minutes you might spend on the internet tomorrow and pull the codes.
I really like having an obdII reader for the cars and whatever else I may end up working on, but for the truck I'll stick with the cheap way. I used a junk piece of speaker wire, put a male spade terminal on one end and an alligator clip on the other. Works every time.

 

yea if i work a normal 8 hour day insted of 13 hour day like the past few ill do it when i get home

 

ok got home early today checked my codes
im getting
22-map out of range
23-tp out of range
31-evp circuit below minimum voltage
67-clutch switch circuit failure

i replaced the map about 6 to 9 months ago with a new one but it wasnt motorcraft i forget the brand and the tp i swapped with one i had on the shelf
i have a new egr valve from my 95 that i put the position sensor from it onto my truck

all of that was done 6 to 9 months ago and had no problems till now

also my motorcraft alternator will be in tomarrow so it will start charging right

and i checked the battery full on acid

 

Looks to me like it's circuit checking time before throwing a bunch of parts at it.

 

yeah but im wondering would the voltage problem i was having with the alternator cause these codes to be thrown out

 

ok had off today and got some work done heres what i found

the rotor button was ****ed to the side so i put in a new cap n rotor
put in the new alternator/voltage regulator
after i was done that i pulled the battery cables wile i put a new lock actuator in the colum when i was done i reconected the cables started her up ran for 30 secs and check engine light came back on

codes now are
22 and 23
map and throttle position.

so i drove probly 10 miles or so had no problems besides a 1200 rpm idle

i havnt gotten to check the voltage on the throttle position sensor yet

but i was going to run it a few days and see if the light goes out

 

Go to the boneyard and grab another MAP and TPS.

 

i got to go any way and get a lsd for my new rear hopfully i can go next thursday. i live on the shore so summer time i get swamped with work but the winter theres hardly any jobs around here