Morning to all. First time poster here with a few questions. Looking at getting a truck as there's been quite a need for one for us this year and most likely will be in the future. Want to keep the costs low as this will be a 3rd vehicle as I'm not really a "truck guy".

Found a really nice looking 1994 F150 supercab on Craigslist that has about 210k on it for $1500. That's within the budget and it's one of the nicest looking I've seen on CL. It's 2wd which is fine for me; I used to drive Mustangs in the PA winters so I'm fine with it.

However the description states "has a shake every now and then". Doesn't say if it's an auto or manual (I don't care; I can drive both) but I'm guessing it's the manual. I know older Fords had Torque Converter shudder issues. IIRC it was early 4r70's or so but I'm not sure how far that goes back. The seller thinks it's the rear but I would think if it was the rear it would do it all the time....

How does the 5.0 hold up to this kind of mileage? I know in Mustangs it will run practically forever and is pretty bulletproof but not sure how different the truck engine is.

Any particulars to look out for in an 18 year old truck? I'm not expecting perfection and it's not going to be a daily driver but would like something that I can at least depend on for moving stuff and maybe the occasional commute to work. I know fuel tank rust is an issue on the older F150's as is body rust (plenty of those examples around here and people want crazy $$ for them).

Any other tips will be greatly appreciated!

And if you made it this far- Happy New Year!

 

The only thing that really happens to the motors are gaskets start to leak. Oil pans can rust up north.

If the trans code on the door stickers says E, it's an e4od. Make sure the fluid is redish, make sure it doesn't smell burnt. Fluid should of been changed every 30k, but it's unlikely it was done. Make sure the transmission has a cooler, heat and running old fluid is what kills them.

Check the axle seals for wetness. Both at the wheels and the pinion. Shake the driveshaft make sure the pinion is tight.

 

Happy New Year back. This series truck is ideal for your needs since it does truck things very well and they are very dependable.
X2 on Need4Racin's comments. I avoid automatics and my last two trucks have been 5 speeds. Try to find out more about the shake stated by the seller, besides the pinion it could be a mount, suspension issue, U joint, or just an unbalanced tire.
Look carefully at the spring hangers and perches in the rear and the spring towers up front they tend to rust away.
Body mounts, cab corners, floor pans, and the radiator support are also known trouble spots for rust.
If the owner will let you pull the codes and at least put a vacuum gauge on to test the basic health of the engine.
I bought both my 94 and 95 with over 180k miles. the 94 only got dumped because I found the 95 which now has over 234k but thats on a 300. My 83 302 went 218k but it couldn't hold its oil.
YMMV
rikard

 

Thanks guys. Not looking for anything too fancy so I'm thinking an older truck is fine. I know my way around an engine so I'm not afraid of possibly having to repair stuff; just want something reliable.

What exactly are cab corners? Saw another on CL that says it needs them but the truck looks to be in good shape otherwise.

This one is inspected till 7/12 and I know PA is quite tough on frame rust and such. But I'll definitely bring a flashlight and check the undercarriage and suspension areas good.

The owner must be pretty confident the shake is the rear as he says he has one and will throw it in... Not sure if I should run away from this one or not.

 

Rust mainly happens in the floor and rockers. If it's a supercab is will rust under the lip under the supercab part. The way that area is shaped it holds salt and moisture.

8.8s aren't expensive for a good used one, about $200 or less. If you're near a big city, usually trucks that need work and have rust go for less than $1k. Especially if they are not 4x4.

 

When you look on the door jam sticker, trans code E for E4OD. "Heavy duty" unit that if needs attention will cost you about 2grand to rebuild right. U for the 4R70w in '94. Car tranny that doesn't cost as much to build, but can be easier to break. M for the Mazda M5OD-R2 manual five speed. Light duty unit that I prefer, but doesn't like to take big power.

Adrianspeeder

 

Once again - thanks. Now I have some ideas on what to look for. Now just waiting for an interior shot from the seller to make sure it isn't in that bad of shape before I go see it.

 

Where ya at in central PA? I'm from the Middletown area.

Adrianspeeder

 

Over in Camp Hill - right next to New Cumberland. Work in Hershey (but not for Hershey).

Small world!

I'm going to see the truck on Saturday morning - thanks for all the tips!

 

Just an update for those that helped...

Went and looked at the truck on Saturday. Looked about what you would expect from a 18 year old truck. The usual rust at the top of the wheel wells and a little under the back of the cab (it was an extended). Interior was dirty (expected) and had a few broken pieces. About what I expected for a 200k mile truck. No frame rust but a little near the engine. Engine looked ok, some oil seepage but to be expected - nothing on the ground that I could tell.

Started right up with a little whiff of blue smoke that went away immediately. Again, to be expected on a 200k engine.

Took it for a drive and that's where the "fun" began. Did hear what sounded like a bearing in the rear roaring. But 1/2 the time it would slip and then bang into gear. You'd hear it rev and then pop into gear. Wasn't counting but I guess the 1-2 or 2-3 shift. Drove fine otherwise and the fluid wasn't burnt.

Man the steering on these things is numb - very "floaty".

Parked it and on tight turns you could also hear something binding - almost felt like the rear end was binding. And the Check Engine light was on - he said EGR and I know that's a Ford thing.

Needless to say I passed as I don't want to have to do a tranny right away. But it would have been a decent truck if you knew someone who could fix it.

The hunt continues - there's another one nearby with around 150k I may take a look at this week.

Once again, thanks to all for your pointers and help.

 

Have you considered going south for a truck.
If you go to TN or NC you can find trucks that have not endured our winters. I live in OH (where they put 2" of salt on a 1/2" of snow) but I bought my truck south of Knoxville.

 

Yea the gear box gets slack with age/miles. Then loose front end parts add to the slack. Very common. Yep sounded like the pinion bearing on that 8.8.