need pictures
#1
need pictures
i'm trying to put my truck in original shape, so i need as much pictures of an engine compartement with a 300 6inline in it, as possible, could also use (internet)adresses ford parts such as chromed out parts to make the engine look nicer. also might be handy to have pictures of the cab and everything inside the cab. and axle, cables on rear axles tank.
in short detailed pictures of the whole truck. for some reason can't google a lot of picture, most picture are from this continent.
in short detailed pictures of the whole truck. for some reason can't google a lot of picture, most picture are from this continent.
#4
for an inline six (only smaller engines) i found some chromed pieces. not for the 300 cid.
what else could i do to make engine look good. and what do i need to do to repaint engine (take the whole thing apart?)
this is what the engine looks like at the moment
this is hanging inside the cab, but where does it go on?
Last edited by johny89; 11-22-2011 at 01:28 PM.
#5
#7
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Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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First, I'd get rid of the red marks all over the hoses & everything else. That just screams "JUNKYARD". If it doesn't run after the engine is turned off, the injector blower can go, too.
Second, a simple but thorough cleaning will make the engine look surprisingly better. Look through these pics & read their captions:
Third: you can touch up the engine paint by masking off areas & spraying it with Ford gray.
Fourth: that's the IGNITION SWITCH, and it should be attached to the steering column so the key will operate it & make the engine start/run/stop.
.
I notice your truck has a '92-96 front clip swapped on, and it looks like an LP/CNG system. Does it also run on gasoline/petrol/benzin? All of those (dangerous) ScotchLok connectors on the ignition switch wiring make it look like there's a remote start or alarm system installed.
Second, a simple but thorough cleaning will make the engine look surprisingly better. Look through these pics & read their captions:
Third: you can touch up the engine paint by masking off areas & spraying it with Ford gray.
Fourth: that's the IGNITION SWITCH, and it should be attached to the steering column so the key will operate it & make the engine start/run/stop.
.
I notice your truck has a '92-96 front clip swapped on, and it looks like an LP/CNG system. Does it also run on gasoline/petrol/benzin? All of those (dangerous) ScotchLok connectors on the ignition switch wiring make it look like there's a remote start or alarm system installed.
Last edited by Steve83; 11-22-2011 at 06:16 PM.
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#8
#9
since i just had my update heres my reply
where can i find new hoses, wiring etc for it?
ignition switch has those bad scotchlok on it cause of the 'new' keyswitch (see one of my other threads in wich it shows the bad column)
it has an lp system and run on benzin as well. can i just take of everything attached to the injector blower or do i need to adjust other things?
won't the paint have to be heat risistant for touching up?
are there any methods to organise the wiring?
since its my DD i currently can't pull the motor but will be done in the future
what should the front clip of an 88 look like then?
where can i find new hoses, wiring etc for it?
ignition switch has those bad scotchlok on it cause of the 'new' keyswitch (see one of my other threads in wich it shows the bad column)
it has an lp system and run on benzin as well. can i just take of everything attached to the injector blower or do i need to adjust other things?
won't the paint have to be heat risistant for touching up?
are there any methods to organise the wiring?
since its my DD i currently can't pull the motor but will be done in the future
what should the front clip of an 88 look like then?
#10
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Any auto parts store should carry all the hoses, & spools of primary wire, like this:
If that ignition switch is bad, why didn't you just unplug it & plug the new one in? Having 2 is dangerous. The engine bay doesn't get above 220°F, which isn't high enough to need hi-temperature paint. Start by just unplugging the blower motor so it can't catch fire. When you have time, you can just remove the system - it doesn't affect anything else. The factory used split-loom to organize the wiring & vacuum lines, so that's what I'd use. The '87-91 front end looks like russo2's avatar: big flat headlights & a flat nose:
If that ignition switch is bad, why didn't you just unplug it & plug the new one in? Having 2 is dangerous. The engine bay doesn't get above 220°F, which isn't high enough to need hi-temperature paint. Start by just unplugging the blower motor so it can't catch fire. When you have time, you can just remove the system - it doesn't affect anything else. The factory used split-loom to organize the wiring & vacuum lines, so that's what I'd use. The '87-91 front end looks like russo2's avatar: big flat headlights & a flat nose:
Last edited by Steve83; 11-28-2011 at 11:46 AM.
#11
Any auto parts store should carry all the hoses, & spools of primary wire, like this:
If that ignition switch is bad, why didn't you just unplug it & plug the new one in? Having 2 is dangerous. The engine bay doesn't get above 220°F, which isn't high enough to need hi-temperature paint. Start by just unplugging the blower motor so it can't catch fire. When you have time, you can just remove the system - it doesn't affect anything else. The factory used split-loom to organize the wiring & vacuum lines, so that's what I'd use. The '87-91 front end looks like russo2's avatar: big flat headlights & a flat nose:
If that ignition switch is bad, why didn't you just unplug it & plug the new one in? Having 2 is dangerous. The engine bay doesn't get above 220°F, which isn't high enough to need hi-temperature paint. Start by just unplugging the blower motor so it can't catch fire. When you have time, you can just remove the system - it doesn't affect anything else. The factory used split-loom to organize the wiring & vacuum lines, so that's what I'd use. The '87-91 front end looks like russo2's avatar: big flat headlights & a flat nose:
will unplug it the moment its back from the shop. it has 1 switch the command comes from another
it has an 87-91 clip
#12
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Something about the 1st pic in the 4th post made me think the front clip was newer, but I can't find what it was now... The brake booster & MC look like normal 1/2-ton parts to me. I'd pull that front bumper & straighten it.
The lock cylinder is easy to change - just turn it to RUN & press the pin in the recess visible below it on the side of the column, then pull the cylinder out. A new one costs ~$14 here.
The lock cylinder is easy to change - just turn it to RUN & press the pin in the recess visible below it on the side of the column, then pull the cylinder out. A new one costs ~$14 here.