Hi,

My 1991 F-150 has about 2" of steering wheel play from side to side. I took it in to a place I always deal with, and are very good and fair. They checked all front end components and said everything was fine. Ball joints, tie rods, Twin I-Beams, upper and lower control arms, etc. They adjusted the steering box and tightened the wheel bearing castle nuts. All of this considerably tightened up the steering, but I still have the play.

It isn't bad around town, but on a straight stretch of freeway at 65 MPH the thing wanders everywhere, and is a royal pain to drive. If a cop followed me for any length of time, he'd probably pull me over because he would think I've been drinking.

I called them back and they told me because of the trucks age a new steering box would not be avaliable. Only a remanufactured one, or else they could remanufactured it. The problem is they can't guarantee that would remove the play. I could spend the money, (which they said would be "pricey"), and still have the same problem. I appreciate their honesty, but I don't know what to do at this point? The truck is flawless, and in great shape except for this, so I want to get it fixed, but don't know how to proceed from here? I can't imagine this to be so difficult to pinpoint? Anyone else ever have this problem? Thanks in advance, Mel

 

That shop sounds dangerously dumb. These trucks are arguably the most-common vehicle in N.America, and the steering box is available from any local parts store, and many online sources. Read this caption:



Changing it isn't difficult, but the box is VERY heavy, and it takes a special tool to remove the pitman arm. Before reconnecting the intermediate steering shaft, make sure the box is centered. Don't allow the steering wheel to spin while the shaft is disconnected.

 

The box may not be the problem.

 

Mine has the same problem, I learned to ignore it and compinsate for it when driving. I never really could see a point in replacing the steering box if I can still turn the truck...But yes like Steve said you should be able to get parts for this truck anywhere. Very easy online!

 

a couple months ago i got a reman steering box for my 92 at advance auto. im thinking it was under $200 after giving them my core. i even rented the pitman arm puller there. i dont consider that expensive, when i paid $100 for a used one 20 years ago. be sure to flush lines and pump when you do it. oh, mine is a 4x4, just realized yours isnt if you have castle nuts, but surely you can find a box anyway.

 

you can also tighten up the gear box manually to help reduce the slack in the center, but you can't tighten it too far, or it will hang up and bind just off of center, and won't return back to center when driving on its own

 

The shop has done that already. It tightened up the steering, but it did nothing to reduce the play in the wheel. The whole thing with replacing the steering box, is I was told, regardless of the fact I can get one or not, that it in itself might not fix the problem. If thats the case I went through a lot of work and expense for nothing.

I'm looking for a solution here, and the replacing the steering box may not solve this issue. Mel.

 

When you move the wheel through it's freeplay does the input shaft on the steering box move by the same amount?

 

No it doesn't. I found it! The shaft coming out of the steering box telescopes into the shaft that extends up to the universal joint that connects to the shaft that comes through the firewall. That is where the play was, in that telescoping coupling. I had my wife sit in the truck and move the wheel from side to side using just two fingers with the engine off. I followed that movement to the telescoping coupling, and that is where the movement stopped.

I measured the thickness of the shim I needed to take up all the play inside the coupling at .046. Exactly the thickness of 2, 1/2" wide hose clamps. I cut 2 pieces and tapped them into place while wiggling the coupling up and down, leaving just enough of the 2 shims sticking out so that I could hold them in place with another hose clamp tightened around the lower shaft coming out of the steering box.

It worked perfectly, and there is zero play in the wheel. It's tighter than a virgin on prom night!

 

That's the intermediate steering shaft, and there was a factory shim that's apparently missing. It's s split black plastic sleeve with 4 notches that retain a flat steel spring in a groove machined into the shaft.

 

I figured something might be missing because there is a type of rubber boot that I slid down the shaft to expose where the 2 pieces come together. This whole thing is blackened metal except for 2 shiny bands around the shaft in that area.

My repair, while a bit unorthodox, worked well as the wheel has zero play. If any play returns I could simply drill a hole through both shafts and tap a roll pin into it.

 

If you look at this diagram, it's at the bottom of the center series of shafts. #3E629 appear to be the clips, (shims), that are missing.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72385

 

though that would work, that defeats the purpose of having a telescoping safety shaft

 

True to a point. However my current repair, or a small roll pin for that matter, would give with any kind of force applied to it. That is the basic concept of shear pins on outboard motor propellers. They amount to nothing more than cotter pins or roll pins that transfer power, but break if any direct shock is applied to them.

 

I thought you meant you were gonna drill all the way through it sideways and put a bolt in it