I have a 95 f150 4x4 with manual hubs that the rightside bearings went bad on and the inside of hub got chewed up. So long story short i bought new hubs, timken bearings and the warn standard lockouts for both sides. I got it all put together and went for a test drive and the left side started clicking. So i pulled it all apart and found that the parts store gave me the wrong bearing for the outer. the part number on the box was correct but did not match the bearing. So i put the new one on and now i can not get the large lock ring that fits inside the groove of the hub to fit. The lockout wont slide in far enough to fit the ring in. Yesterday i took the parts off of the right side and put on the left and it still has no room. It doesnt matter how much i tighten down the hub locking nuts with the ring in between. I have the pin on the one nut going through the hole of the ring so i know thats not a problem. Please help out with this thing. I dont know what else to try and i have been without a truck for a number of months now since parts people dont know what a hub and rotor assembly is around here or it has been on backorder for months and is out of stock. Im getting really aggravated because i know it has to be something simple and im overlooking it.
Thanks

 

put one of the original berring from the left side "since u said only the right were bad and pack it full of grease n see if it will go back together

 

Thats an idea. The right bearings were shot and i mean that by the rollers had come out of the cage. The left bearings are pretty loose so by no means do i want to keep them in there. Unfortunately progress has been slow to get this truck up to standards that i am comfortable with. The leaf spring shackles will be the next project.
Can someone run me through the procedure of seating the bearings with tightening the hub nuts? With or w/o the tire on? Also i have tightened the inner nut so that i can turn the hub and then while putting the outer nut on it screws up the inner and turns the whole assembly. So im lost.I have done them before although a long time ago and on a 4x2. Im pretty sure im doing it right but i want to see what others are doing. THat may be the key.
Thanks.

 

also when u have the old n new berring out compair them if they look the same n the old dont work its probly the rear bearing is too big but u cant tell till u check.

shackels are funn fords are notoriouse for them rotting out atleast i know they are on the east coast ford and them damn rivets i hate them

i havnt done 4x4 hubs in years hahaha 4x2 is easy 4x4 id have to be doing it to remmeber

 

Well i have compared bearings as many times as i have been dealing with the wrong ones the parts store keeps giving me. They are the correct ones. The inner bearing on the left side doesnt quite seat on spindle like the right. I cant get the one off the right side easily. The left one i can pull off just fine. Im wondering if that isnt my issue and i need to get a different one and the hub may seat further up the spindle shaft.
Thanks for the help losthillbilly.
Can anyone else describe the bearing seating process please?

 

i havent done this in years either(at least since i learned to stay outta the mud), and i think the newer hubs may be differant than the late 70s ones i played with. and, i got lost in the left side/ right side part of your story, but im thinking maybe one of the spindles is messed up? if you do remove a spindle, might as well put new axle joints in at the same time.

 

i was wondering if the hubs were different per side but cant tell of any difference and there isnt a l or r stamped on them to tell the sides so it has to be something else. I have an idea i want to look into that may work.
Also with the timken bearing seals why do they include two different designs of seals in the box? There is only enough to do one side per box but i cant find where one of the seals would possibly go. I only see one seal on diagrams which is in between the spindle and the inner bearing. It presses into the inside of the hub as you draw it down and torque it. The other seal is all black and i dont know where it goes? This is nuts.
How do you properly torque to bearing nuts? I know someone knows. Please shed some light on this frustrating issue.
Thanks a lot.

 

its probly because its a barring used in multiple applications so they got to put both in there for the diffent applications

 

I think as well that that inner bearing is the issue. Nowthat i think of it there was some purple grease already in the rollers. So hind sight is twenty twenty.

 

Click my black Bronco in my signature & read the captions in the Brakes & Hubs album.

 

when working on the hubs you have to make sure that you seat every thing as far back as possible my 92 f-150 we had to replace the right front brake disk which means removing the hubs and all at first we dident put every thing as back as possible and had the same problem so we tore every thing off and re set every thing as deep in as possible then i finally fit right just make sure everything is packed full of greases and in as deep as possible

 

No, don't do that.

 

Im pretty sure that i have everything set on the spindle as far back as possible. I have the hub nuts torqued down to specs and backed off 90 deg. I even drove it down the street hoping to seat everything. I cant get it no further on the spindle. I have gone ahead and ordered a new hub to see if that is the issue. Otherwise i will put the old hub on to see if the warn lockout fits in there like its supposed to. I honestly dont know what else to do. I miss driving this truck and its pissing me off.

 

Have you read those captions yet? Sounds like you haven't because everything is described in them.

 

Yes i did read the captions and printed stuff off for reference. I torqued everything down as i said and it still will not fully go into the hub. The only thing inside of the hub are the two hub nuts and washer. There is nothing else left from the stock lockouts and it will not go in all the way to get the outer lockring in. The hub spins freely and sounds good. Everything is nice and tight but that lockout will not go in all the way.