Hey everybody, this is my first and most definatly not the last time posting here. This is the second problem ive yet to encounter on the cheapest wheels ive ever had, and i love it too much to scrap it for more than i got her for. When i say cheap, my 75' riviera was only 1500$ and shes a beauty. my 86' LTD wagon was 700$ and ive had her for 2 years and 15,000 miles without a single thing to go wrong, and ive only put maybe at best 150$ worth of oil and filters. Never lets me down.

The truck now... was 300$. I live in north jersey and work 35 miles away in Brooklyn. My boss asked me if i could stop in queens on my way about a month ago and pick up a whole bundle of threaded rods. I had only had the truck a few weeks, but trusted it enough to not dirty up or strain my wagon with all the weight.

I made it all the way to queens and then just about to my job in bumper to bumper traffic, and when i was one exit away she died on the highway. It was 95 and humid that day so i figured she overheated. I called someone up and had them push me to the first exit where my job has a storage yard. As I was rolling off the highway i pushed in the clutch and she started; ran like crap but was able to make the turn into the yard and park her.

She didnt overheat, because the next day she still wouldnt turn over. She was cranking, sounded like she wanted to, but nothing.

I took advantage of where she was and flushed out the coolant system anyway. Dirtiest antifreexe ive ever seen. I changed the fuel filter thinking it wasnt getting gas, but still nothing. So I changed the fuel pump and in the process twisted and broke the fuel line.

Ive been real busy at work and went on vacation, so i havent had time to change it. Yesterday i stayed late and gave it hell.

Changed the line, and after alittle gas in the carb and alot of pumping the pedal she started right up. SHe runs alittle rough now, and the emissions light comes on every so often but ill worry about that later.

I went to move her and nothing. Not until i put her in reverse. In reverse she will move fine, but as soon as I try and go forward the drivers side rear wheel locks up. I cant understand it. Someone told me its either the brakes or the transfer case. Ive never worked on a 4x4 before, and any help would be greatly appreciated as i have no idea where to start.

I bought all new plugs wires and a distributor, and im so antsy to put them on and get her real spiffy inside and out but before i open any packages and throw out any receipts i want her to move.

Thanks everyone, Im Sam by the way. Cant wait to get to know this forum and its members

 

its not your transfer case jack it up so both rear tires are off the ground and e break off and get some one on the othere side and try pushing both tires ar the same time in the drivers side stays locked take the wheel off then the drum once u get the drum off urn the axel to be sure nothing in your rear is messed up if it turns freely its your beaks. make sure your springs are in the correct places also make sure your e break cable aint sticking

ps. when you get the rotor off and turn the axel make sure someone is on the otherside pushing the other tire forword

if you dont it will defeet the purpouse

i snaped a roll pin into 3 pieces in my 95 and it would go in reverse but as soon as id push the clutch and go from reverse to first it would drop and jam into the pinion and the truck wouldnt move

 

The problem is in the rear diff. Are there bolts on the back, or nuts & studs on the front of the center housing? Read this caption & the others in the album:

 

Thanks fellas, the truck is in Brooklyn 40 miles away right now so i have to wait until work tomorrow before i can get to it. The security guard was being a jerk and he said once i left he gate would be locked and stay locked all weekend because even though MY boss gave me permission to stay HIS boss said otherwise. Wasnt worth getting into a fight over.

Losthillbilly, Once i get her jacked up and try pushing the wheels forward If I do get em to move all i should have to do is change the brakes? maybe you can explain what this pinion is to me alittle more?

Steve, I will ge post tomorrow what the differential looks like once i get over there. If its not the brakes like LostHillbilly has suggested, and it is indeed the differential, worst case scenario how big of a job do you think Im looking at? Im pretty handy, and pick up on things quick. Im no grade A mechanic but with a Haynes manual and a couple brews I can get most anything done.
I only payed 300$ for her so I am willing to put a few bucks into her. What would you say Im looking at for this, to get her moving forward, again- worst case scenario.

Thanks for your input fellas, I appreciate it. I set up my F150online garage if you guys feel like taking a look at my three pretty cheap rides.

 

make sure the wheel cylender aint seasd and diffs aint bad but all the shims have to go back ware they came from same with the barring capsits pretty strait forword

thak the pin out of the roll pin its 5/16 pull the roll pin out and turn the diff but be ready to catch the spiders once out roll the diff so you can see the axels push both wheels in and remove the c clips then pull the axels out far enough to get the diff outthen tak e the 2 bolts on each bearing cap and remove remember make sure they go back in the same place once u pull the diff there will be shims on each side that need to go back ware they came

but if its the spiders and they didnt hurt the ring and pinion or the diff just take the roll pin out and pull the spiders


but iff

 

IDK what used parts cost up there, but I can buy a good used 8.8" axle for $80-200, and it doesn't take but a couple of hours to swap. You don't even have to open the brake lines.

http://www.pullapart.com/pricing/Mai...=17&#pricelist

 

yeah ive swapped many of them the only part i hate is the clips on the rubber brake line is a pain to get off some times. and steve i love in south jersey i had to get a new 8.8 for my 93 bout 8 months ago cost me 300 so you aint to far off plus i got a 6 month warenty on it but it depends on ware you go

sam if you do go the route of just replacing the rear get new u bolts and just cut the old ones off its quicker and easyer then breaking them loose. my 88 i used a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 6 foot pipe to break mine loose

 

There's only 1 clip on the rear rubber brake line, and it doesn't have to come off no matter how you change the rear axle. It's on the frame end.

Cutting the U-bolts would be my LAST choice. Start soaking all the fasteners with penetrating oil now, at least 1x/wk if not 1x/day.

 

ive done about 5 rears in thes trucks ive only had one that thebreak line came off without taking the clip off

if you couldnt tell im hard on 8.8's

 

You're missing what I'm saying: the brake line doesn't need to come off, so the clip doesn't need to come off, either. The brake line clip is on the top of the rubber hose, on the frame. If you unscrew the vent nipple, all the brake lines lift off the axle tubes, without opening them, or losing any brake fluid. If you pull the axleshafts & then the brake backing plates, the fully-assembled brakes can hang on the truck while you swap axle housings.

You don't have to touch the clip.

 

ok yea u could do it that way i was thinkin how could u get the rubber line off the frame without taking that clip off. me personaly id just change out the spiders

 

If the parking brake is stuck, it CAN allow movement in reverse but not forward.

 

I've backed my truck out in reverse with the parking brake locked on tight and then stalled as soon as I tried to go forward.
Dads truck is the same way.
I would check those e brake lines before tearing into the rear end.