I have a '96 F-150 with a 351W that I bought from a friend a couple of months ago. The truck was "eating" E4OD's for him; I think he swapped in three used transmissions and they all gave him problems, so he sold me the truck cheap with another used transmission. Figuring contamination was probably one of his problems, I went through and replaced the radiator, replaced the stock cooler with a big Long Tru-Cool unit, flushed the lines and added an inline filter; I also added a Transgo 'Tugger' kit to the transmission and replaced the MLPS. I finally got the transmission swapped into the truck a couple of weeks ago. For the most part, it drives fine - I haven't noticed any slippage and the shifts are nice and firm without being harsh; however, a few issues have cropped up that I'm seeking some insight on.

1. The TCIL flashes on startup. The transmission is not acting like it is in limp mode, and the light stops flashing if I drive the truck for more than a few minutes. I have tried switching the OD button/light unit with another one I had on hand, and the behavior did not change; I believe the connections at the solenoid pack and MLPS are all solid and clean as well. Checking the codes with an OBD-II code reader has not yielded anything besides emissions-related codes.

2. Sometimes the transmission does not want to shift out of 1st gear. It will rev up to 4000+ RPM and does not shift even if I let off the throttle. The couple of times that I kept into it, it did eventually shift very hard into 2nd somewhere north of 4000 RPM, but I have been hesitant to try that too many times. If I move the lever to manual 2nd, it will shift more or less normally into 2nd gear; I can then move the lever back to Drive and it will shift normally into 3rd. 2-3 and 3-4 shifts seem normal, as does lockup; it usually shifts normally for a while after I shift it manually to "unstick it" but eventually it always does it again.

3. While investigating issue number 2, I noticed that the manual 2 position does not hold the transmission in 2nd gear. With manual 2 selected it does not downshift into 1st; I can start out from a stop in 2nd gear, but it upshifts to 3rd seemingly the same as it would in Drive. If I move the lever from D to 2 while going 25-30MPH, it does not force a downshift like I would expect it to.

I still need to check out my wiring a little more carefully to make sure it is not damaged; I am considering going ahead and replacing the solenoid pack, since I need to drop the pan again eventually.

I have searched pretty extensively here and many other Ford sites without running into quite the same issues as I am having, so I would appreciate any suggestions that anyone could provide. Thanks!

 

That is odd. I'd start with shootin' all the wires for shorts or opens from the MLPS to the computer.

Or save up for a ZF5...

Adrianspeeder

 

Just a thought, does your speedo work reliably? Failure to shift out of 1st is a symptom of a missing VSS input. The overall problem seems like it is related to the TRS

 

I am going to try to check out all of the MLPS and solenoid pack wiring thoroughly; with 4 transmission R&R's in the last year it wouldn't surprise me if there is a bad connection or broken wire somewhere.

I'd love to have a ZF5 but I think I'd rather start that project with an M5OD-equipped truck than tackle an E4OD to ZF swap. I do have a bad E4OD that a buddy and I might try to rebuild. After all, what do I have to lose, besides several hundred dollars and several days of my life?

Speedometer is working fine as far as I have seen; I should probably check the VSS anyway but I doubt it's the issue with no speedometer problems.

I am assuming TRS is transmission range sensor/MLPS? It has been replaced, albeit with a BWD unit from O'Reilly's, not a Ford part.

I have been advised that there are probably codes stored that my reader won't pull; I will probably try to get it into a shop next week to have them check for codes.

Thanks guys.

 

Another thought:
Ford changed the connector pinouts on the E4OD in 95.
94 down trannies will bolt up and AFAIK the connector body is the same but there will be things not connected correctly to the PCM.

 

Any suggestions on where to find pinout information for those two different connectors? I am 99% sure this transmission is a '95...but not 100%.

 

I've got the harness and tranny connector pinouts for a 96 but so do you just by looking at the harness connector.
What I don't have is the transmission pinouts for a 94-down tranny which is what you need to verify

 

I have not had a chance to look at the wiring yet (OK, I've had time, but it's like 9000 degrees here); however, I am fairly confident after some reading that I do have the correct solenoid pack for a 95-up E4OD - I don't think it would drive as well as it does if it was wrong. I'm going to try to get the truck into a shop this week and hopefully get some transmission codes from someone with a real scan tool.

In the mean time, does anyone know what is supposed to force the downshift into 2nd when manual 2 is selected on the column? I guess what I'm asking is whether this behavior is supposed to be commanded mechanically or electronically (or both) and what type of issue I might be looking at, given that manual 2 does not force the truck down to 2nd or keep it from upshifting out of 2nd.

Thanks

 

I had the codes read at a shop today; they got some transmission codes that my reader did not show:

P0713 Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor CKT High Input
P1711 TFT Sensor Out of Self Test Range

Any advice? Would these be related to the shifting issues? I know the TFT sensor is part of the solenoid pack; can it be replaced separately or would the whole pack need to be replaced if I wanted to change it?

Thanks

 

The TFT sensor gives the PCM the data it needs to adjust the shift schedules and torque converter adjustment schedules when the fluid is cold. It also used to adjust the EPC solenoid pressure schedules to compensate for temperature. If the sensor is fubar it could lead to all sorts of shifting issues.

Before you go and replace the sensor check the wiring and connector for continuity and test the sensor