My water pump failed & I replaced about 8 months ago. About a month after I changed it I noticed the smell of anti-freeze leaking but could not put my eyes on the leak. it became more pronounced over time. Just last Friday I really noticed a leak and crawled up underneath and found the timing chain cover had a small crack in it up behind the smog pump. I now have the engine compartment broken down to the water pump until I can get the money for a new cover. From what I have read, I should just be able to remove the pump then the cover and reinstall. Can you advise me of any surprises that may pop up when I do this? Just trying to be prepared.
Also, I have 168,000 miles. Should I worry about the chain at all? or do i probably have another 50k left on it?
Thanks for any input.

 

If your tearing it down that far I would replace the chain, but I've never seen Antifreeze in a timing chain cover...I did a quick google and havn't found anything about it either. Make sure that the waterpump gasket isn't leaking and the antifreeze is dripping down the timing cover.

Just found some info that Dodge's have water channels under the cover so it's possible we do to, lemme check my haynes...

Edit: Checked Haynes, and nothing is really mentioned, only tell me how to check the timing chain...lol

 

I will post some pics after I clean the motor. I actually got to see the leak this last time and it is shooting out a split on the part of the cover that the EPA pump bolts to.

 

Ah if you saw it leaking from there then I'm sure it's coming from there lol, but yea, if you're that far into it, I would definately change the chain and the water pump while your in there, not only is it a lot of work, but the money it cost just to get to the timing chain is worth it, you have to drain the radiator, all the gaskets, etc. On top of that, you'll have the peice of mind knowing that it's new and such.

 

The oil pan's front 4 bolts go up into that cover, so when you remove the cover, you'll tear up that part of the pan gasket. Most timing sets come with a replacement section of pan gasket, but it's a PITA to get it to seal that way. I'd pull the whole engine, drop the pan, R&R the timing cover/gears/chain, install a new 1-piece steel-reinforced nitrile pan gasket, and then set the engine back in. While it's out, inspect all the freeze plugs, exhaust manifolds, & the engine mounts. You might even throw in a new oil pump.

But that's just me - I'd rather do preventative maintenance than emergency repairs.

 

Picked up all the parts today. They did not have the oil pan gasket insert so I'm going to have to be careful there . Changing PS line while I have everything out. Let's hope this method will work.

 

That's like changing the oil when you don't have a new filter. The best possible outcome from doing this job without that gasket is that it'll run a few months before it starts leaking profusely, and you'll be doing all this work again. And even if you DO put in that partial gasket, it's still probably gonna leak. I can't recommend highly enough that you put in a new full pan gasket. If you don't want to pull the engine, at least lift it & fish the new gasket into place under the oil pump pickup. It's a back-breaking (& elbow-breaking) way to do the job, but it's still better than doing it twice.

But again: I'd pull the engine to do it all right the first time.

 

Complete. I ended up picking up a gasket for the pan too. I have no way to lift the motor so had to fish around the pump pick up tube. No leaks so far!

 

Oh, I did find it easier to install the chain cover while the pan was dropped. I aligned it on the two dowels put two starter bolts in to hold it in place, then lifted pan with gasket up into place.

 

A floor jack will work. I've lifted mine by the harmonic balancer with a bottle jack on the steering linkage. I'm not saying it's a GOOD way - it's just a way...

 

I was wondering why i didnt do that and rembered i had the balancer pulled off.