Hi....Thinking about swapping the tired 302 in my 93 (xlt 4x4 , E4OD a.t., super cab long bed) with another low mileage engine(same year) before the snow flies. I figure on changing the rear main and front tranny seals while out.
What do you think I should do...pull tranny first, pull engine and replace with tranny in place, or cut radiator cross-member and pull complete assembly, switch engines, put back in and weld/repair cross-member? Working with a cherry picker in the driveway and really want the best and/or easiest approach. Any other advice or pointers with the job appreciated. Thanks

 

Why would you even consider cutting a bolt-in crossmember???



The best/easiest approach is to repair/maintain the original engine. What makes you think it's at the point of replacement? Has it failed a compression test?



Have you ever checked/changed the timing set?



How's the fuel pressure? How many miles on the fuel/air filters? Ever run fuel injector cleaner? Ever test the TPS, MAP, ECT, ACT, ICM, coil, PIP? What do the plugs look like? How old are the wires? Are they routed exactly as shown here?

 

Thanks for all the questions. I appreciate your opinion after seeing your input in the past to other members questions. The truck has sat since 1994 in a field. The engine runs good but has 138 k on it. It needs a new oil pan and possibly a right side exhaust manifold. Oil seeps from the pan gasket too. The check engine light is on. I replaced the O2 sensor, the front gas tank, the gas caps, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel vent lines, all filters, antifreeze, thermostat, hoses, oil, etc. Have not checked the TPS, MAP, ECT, ACT, ICM, coil, PIP (got a 1993 Bronco F150 Elec and Vacuum Service Manual on it's way via ebay). Got a line on a 93 302 with 67k on it and am thinking it would live a lot longer and be more dependable in the future than the old one. BTW, I was referring to the radiator top cross member; didn't see any bolts.

 

A "crossmember" is a piece of the frame. The radiator mounts to the "core support", and you don't have to remove it to pull the engine. I changed this truck's engine without even removing the tires - I just let the air out of the fronts & pulled the hood off.



It sounds like your current engine just needs a few exterior parts, and I'd pull it to change the pan & gasket. But I'd put it back in - swapping can get tricky, even with something that appears to be identical. If the other one is cheap, snag it & prep it to install if you need to, but I'd keep running the original until there was a REALLY good reason to change it.



A Haynes manual will be much easier to use than any Ford manual, and the EVTM won't tell you how to test anything, anyway. It's basically wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, & component locations. For engine diagnosis, you'd want the PCED & service manual, like what's shown here:



You can get those disks on eBay, Helm's website, from vendors here, or from me. Check the others, then e-mail me thru my SMN profile or my profile here.

 

Wrote to you about the disks. All this aside, which engine removal approach is best and/or easiest? How hard is to rejoin the engine to the tranny with the transmission in place? I've changed a few engines in the past but mostly manuals where I'd pull the tranny first.

 

I didn't realize there was more than 1 way: unbolt it & lift it out.I never know how to answer "how hard" questions... Depends on you. If you consider changing a bulb hard, then this will be a nightmare. If you don't have/use the right tools, it'll be a PITA. If you've never installed an engine, there will be some things to learn. I don't see things as "hard" or "easy" - if it needs to be done, just do it, or pay someone to do it.