A hotter coil shouldn't make it idle any higher than stock. All it does is make it a stronger spark, ie hotter, so you have a more complete ignition of the fuel.
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1996 F-150 XLT, reg. cab 6.5' box, 4.9 I6. E4OD w/ B&M alum sump, auxiliary cooler and external filter, Addco 1" sway-bars F&R, Bilstein shocks, 16 x 8 AR Bajas w/255/70-16s, Line-X spray in liner, hinged tonneau, Reese hitch and electric brake controller, VDO tranny and engine oil temp gages, stainless pushbar, Hella 550 fog and driving lights, Hella backup/work lights, 3.73 Trac-Lok w/ an alum. diff. cover with cap support screws, PFC "Z" brake pads, high flow cat with a 2.5" cat back with a FM 70 muffler.
would I have to upgrade my plugs and wires also for this to make a differance or can i just change the coil?
This is the best performance upgrade for the money you can do: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump If your running MAP, also use a K&N drop-in air filter. Not the cold air intake kit. MAP engines tend to run lean when you go w/ the full blown CAI kit. MAF"S are a little different story, they can adapt to larger amounts of flow.
if you have the need for it, then ahotter coil, better wires and plugs can allow you run a wider plug gap
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On a stock engine which is in good condition a hotter coil will do nothing. If your compression is off or you are oil fouling your plugs, etc. then a hotter coil may help mask the problem but it won't "add" performance it will merely restore some of what you lost.
If you have modified the engine with better heads or a more radical cam then the hotter coil may well be required to support those mods.
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1996 F-150 XLT, reg. cab 6.5' box, 4.9 I6. E4OD w/ B&M alum sump, auxiliary cooler and external filter, Addco 1" sway-bars F&R, Bilstein shocks, 16 x 8 AR Bajas w/255/70-16s, Line-X spray in liner, hinged tonneau, Reese hitch and electric brake controller, VDO tranny and engine oil temp gages, stainless pushbar, Hella 550 fog and driving lights, Hella backup/work lights, 3.73 Trac-Lok w/ an alum. diff. cover with cap support screws, PFC "Z" brake pads, high flow cat with a 2.5" cat back with a FM 70 muffler.
Just changing the coil won't do anything WITHOUT doing other mods - which is what that post refers to.
I dont consider a tune up to be a "mod" but if you say so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrangeRanger
On a stock engine which is in good condition a hotter coil will do nothing. If your compression is off or you are oil fouling your plugs, etc. then a hotter coil may help mask the problem but it won't "add" performance it will merely restore some of what you lost.
Disagree. Coupled with a few simple tune up items a hotter coil makes a world of difference on a well running engine.
It's the tune-up that makes the difference; the coil is a waste of money...other than the "look what I've got" factor. And you're right, simple required maintenance is most definitely NOT a modification.
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1996 F-150 XLT, reg. cab 6.5' box, 4.9 I6. E4OD w/ B&M alum sump, auxiliary cooler and external filter, Addco 1" sway-bars F&R, Bilstein shocks, 16 x 8 AR Bajas w/255/70-16s, Line-X spray in liner, hinged tonneau, Reese hitch and electric brake controller, VDO tranny and engine oil temp gages, stainless pushbar, Hella 550 fog and driving lights, Hella backup/work lights, 3.73 Trac-Lok w/ an alum. diff. cover with cap support screws, PFC "Z" brake pads, high flow cat with a 2.5" cat back with a FM 70 muffler.
There is a difference between "simple required maintenance" and using premium aftermarket parts and optimized settings (i.e. advancing the timing) to do that maintenance. JUST a hot coil isn't going to do anything. Coupling that with a premium rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs and advancing the timing, of course that's a different story.
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2003 F150XL 4.2 short cab/bed 4x2 5 speed manual 3.55 LS
With or without the coil, it's the tuneup and the optimized timing that adds the performance. The hotter coil does nothing to improve volumetric efficiency so it does not increase the amount of fuel/air mixture the engine burns. You might argue that the hotter coil causes more complete combustion but I seriously doubt that it does. The emissions requirements for unburned HC have already insured that combustion on late model engines is as complete as it can be.
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1996 F-150 XLT, reg. cab 6.5' box, 4.9 I6. E4OD w/ B&M alum sump, auxiliary cooler and external filter, Addco 1" sway-bars F&R, Bilstein shocks, 16 x 8 AR Bajas w/255/70-16s, Line-X spray in liner, hinged tonneau, Reese hitch and electric brake controller, VDO tranny and engine oil temp gages, stainless pushbar, Hella 550 fog and driving lights, Hella backup/work lights, 3.73 Trac-Lok w/ an alum. diff. cover with cap support screws, PFC "Z" brake pads, high flow cat with a 2.5" cat back with a FM 70 muffler.
Well, My truck's noticeable improvement in performance & better than factory spec. MPG-17/23 (23 mpg @ 65mph), for a 302 w/ 87 octane for $160. in upgrades & some elbow grease, must be a freak of nature! It would have to be a given, that the otherwise stock engine was healthy w/ balanced compression (87' w/82K). All I've done to it was the Ignition upgrade & timing bump plus a K&N drop in filter. Except for two slight mods to the mods. I'm running 16 BTDC & I sidegap my $10./set Motorcraft stock plugs at .054. So, to recap, This is fun, inexpensive, rewarding, and very do-able! http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump & http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
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