I found a mint 93 f-150 with 4x4 and a 5.8l wondering if the tranny or transfer cases are weak in these trucks? It will be used for a workhorse, if i do buy it would it be a bit of cash at 200 000k? or are they good or what could you do to prevent them from failing? so other than the simple stuff like fluids! thank you, any input on this would be greatly appreciated!

 

you may just want to run some seafoam through it and get rid of the carbon build up in the cylinders. i'd check the air filter, if it has oil all in it then its got a blow by which wont hurt anything but will be using oil and the only way to fix it is replacing or rebuilding the motor. other than that it should last you a while with the 5.8. i'd do all services, tranny flush, oil change, differentials, transfer case, and make sure everything on the truck is tight, steering, ball joints, and etc.

 

A 93 5.8 is going to have an E4OD tranny. Pre-95 E4ODs had some problems although by 93 they were much better than the original 89 versions. Here is a list of the upgrades that ford made to them:

http://www.becontrols.com/tech/ch6e4odinfo.htm

If whether you buy the truck or not is dependent on the tranny condition, you should get it inspected by a reputable trans shop and find out how much a rebuild with all the upgraded parts would set you back.

 

well thanks for the quick responses i think this would be a good truck only has 90,000kms so mint but who knows what happened in those 90 thou, lol THANKS AGAIN!

 

At only 90K km (56K miles) the thing is barely broken in. I would get an inspection, drive the PO as hard as possible on the price and roll the dice.

 

Does the truck have dual tanks? If so I'd ask if the owner took the truck in for the recall on them. My 93 5.0 front tank check valve went bad around 80k miles and started filling the rear tank while on.

 

auto locking hubs and the motor on the tcase will tend to crap out. and do not do a tranny flush. just take the time and rebuild it or leave it until it craps out completly. doing a flush will kill it.

 

That's the oldest wives tail, if it's going to die, it'll die with new or old fluid.

I'm unclear on your first post of the cost of the truck. What is it?

Adrianspeeder

 

[QUOTE=adrianspeeder;3373920I'm unclear on your first post of the cost of the truck. What is it?[/QUOTE]

i just assumed he didnt post the cost and said it had 200,000 miles or something but he cleared that up in his second post. and purexcountry why are you against the trans flush. it has 56000 miles on it so its time for one and it wont hurt anything as long as its a real flush and not just a filter and refill. my friends 94 f350 has a 7.5 with the original E40D in it with a new motor and he flushed it for the first time of its life with 160,000 miles and nothing bad happened.

 

i read that he had 200,000 on it. does he know who hes buying the truck from? did he know how that person drove it? most likely not on both.

and im an ASE certified tech. im not feeding you a line of bull. by "flushing it" you transfering the dirt and carbon from the old fluid and flushing it into other parts of the valve body.

 

you have really got to read all the post instead of just going by the first one he maid. he says it has 90000km which is about 56000 miles.

 

Some might consider my method excessive and a waist of time & $'s, but my background as a commercial/industrial machine field tech incnluded getting units repaired & back on line or sometimes machines set up locations are extremely remote,hostle or crucial (like $10k/days past agreed compleation day penelties) I've been hired to determine what componants are most likely to fail, what will be the cause, & how to reduce the occurrence. In a nutshell,vehicle engines, especially after OBDC Emissions reduction systems dramatically increased the stress and demands in function, are predisposed to internalize excessive amounts of contaminants including chemical and hard particles in addition to the limited abilities of petroleum based lubricants & fluids to retain their physical and chemical properties when exposed to high temps or the process of transition between heating up & cooling down. At this point it's ph turns acidic, it begins to absorb & retain water, lubritive properties reduce and it's abilities to suspend and carry away solid particles changes to distribution of contamination build upon inner surfaces & components. 2 cans of SeaFoam. 2/3 can Through air intake to reduce combustion chamber surface build up, 1/3 in tank to reduce injector restrictions. 1 can added to oil, and allow to circulate w/ engine running prior to change. then drain oil ,remove filter, empty & reinstall. refill w/ any cheap detergent oil & drive a day or two, then drain &remove filter. Replace w/extended range filter, !qt. synthetic oil stabilizer + whatever amt. to equal the truck's oil capacity with a good synth. oil, which is drastically superior to even the best petroleum based oil (seldom mentioned, synthetic oil is the end product that began as petroleum based substance, but high up on the refinement ladder) except for one crucial function. Providing a protective film that remains on top end parts to reduce cold start up wear by itself. The stabilizer is expressly formulated to eliminate that shortcoming. The same Co. makes TransTune, great for pre treat A/T's, diffs, & power steering systems before fluid change. Synth. use great in A/T & brakes!!!